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Discussion Starter #121
Jute-backed vinyl sound deadening glued onto cowl panel today. I also cleaned up the front brake cylinder springs and reassembled the rear brake proportioning valve.
 

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Baby steps....baby steps...can you see the light at the end of the tunnel??
As you reassemble yours I took mine apart Saturday...

Jetfuel....keeping busy is easy...
 

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Discussion Starter #123
I will cut more of the vinyl stuff like on the cowl for the rear trunk panel and the inside of the rear fenders in the trunk this coming weekend. I will also order some 5/16 inch cunifer tubing for the fuel feed line and fuel return line (fuel injected car, remember!). May install some of the brake lines and new hoses too.
 

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Discussion Starter #124
Bent up the 8 mm copper-nickel tubing for the 2 fuel lines - using the old ones as a template and zap strapping them together during the bending.

Then I mounted all the hard brake and fuel lines under the car. In the process I cleaned the garage floor, with my hair. 6 hours all in.
62238
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Discussion Starter #126
Last week I finished the brake line fabrication and also made and installed the fuel lines.

Then today I had about 4 hours to get some things done, so I cut the inner rear fender protectant and trunk floor insulation, mounted it, put the rubber mat in and clipped it into place with the 4 large modern plastic clips (better than the rubber originals and easier to use!). Then I mounted the front fuel line retainer that holds the two fuel lines at the front end of the car, mounted the cage nuts on the road wheels and finally glued the seal to the fresh air intake.
 

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Discussion Starter #127
Sander May's stainless steel replica exhaust, with NOS Peugeot heat shield installed. The diameter of the replica resonator is a bit smaller than the original in mild steel, so I had to make up a couple of small spacers in aluminium to allow the bands to clamp onto the body. Soon to be mounted on the car. The third photo shows one spacer, which is on the upper side of the resonator, so it's not visible from below.



 

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Discussion Starter #128
After yesterday's repair to the broken captive bolt on the foam backed lower dashboard pad, today it was successfully mounted:
Dashboard-pads.jpg

Light, horn and turn indicator controls installed, plus wheel of course:
Steering-wheel.jpg

Note the cover for the column shifter, part of the original Nardi floor shifter kit:
Steering-column.jpg

Trimmed the fresh air intake seal so the hood could close!
IMG-5720.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #129
A bit of light work after Christmas:

1) wired up the extra interior light so it is a map light only (independent of the ceiling light)...may decide to change that later so it works with the doors too.

2) mounted the electric screen washer pump behind the steering column and got some new tubing to fit, as well as a new ABS T-fitting. Installed a one way valve so it won't drain back when not in use.

3) developed a wiring diagram to connect the Swedish market two speed rotary wiper switch, which also has a push function to operate the screen washer. The first owner fitted two speed wipers when the car was a few years old but I didn't like the rocker switch he used.



Next I will tackle wiring up the switch or install the driver's door upholstery panel. May even attempt the rear window installation if I get ambitious enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #130
On Saturday the driver's door panel got mounted. You might think it's a 10 minute job, but it's not. The replica upper door panel is for a Cabriolet and required a whole lot of modification to fit.

 

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Discussion Starter #131
Machined door jamb plates riveted in with original plastic rivets.




Stainless steel rear exhaust mounted with original Peugeot OE belts/hangers:




And the middle section is mounted too, held in place temporarily with a zap strap:




Flexible hose between floor and torque tube mounted to my homemade brake lines:





Right front brake hose mounted (the end is capped):




And left front (you can see the cap on the end in this photo):




Left front side bumper mount added. The cage nut had flown the coop many years ago and so getting the long bolt started into the nut I was hanging onto with a dab of butyl was a bit of a challenge but it worked better than my attempt with magnets!



 

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Discussion Starter #132
F & F Safety Plate, the brand of windshield fitted to my car since at least January 1973, when...
windshield-brand.jpg



the last vehicle test was done (not required since 1983)
City-test-sticker.jpg



And the windshield is in!
Windshhield-installed.jpg
 

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Way to go Mike...it won't be long....there's a light at the end of the tunnel...and it could be a Peugeot...

Jetfuel...still watching...
 

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Discussion Starter #136
Thanks! Sometimes I need to remember that!

Not a lot was done recently. I got a couple of snaps fitted to the transmission tunnel carpet, which was a test as much as anything else, but it worked. Then I found that the spacers for the carpet snaps were mostly missing. The snaps are screwed into the floor but have spacers to allow for the extra thickness of the carpeting underlay and insulation. So I bought some bronze spacers and have to grind them to size and they will become fit for purpose.

Also, all 18 Kugelfischer DL020B and DL020D fuel injectors I have for the engine (of course it needs only four at any given time) have been tested and matched into pressure classes by Nottingham Diesel Services Ltd. and DHL should have them back in my hands shortly. I'll post photos when they're here.
 

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Discussion Starter #137


Today I got my 18 cleaned and tested injectors back from Nottingham Diesel Services Ltd.

The 6 NOS:
2 x DL0 20D - release at 37 bar, good jet, no drips
3 x DL0 20D - release at 35 bar, good jet, no drips
1 x DL0 20B - release at 33 bar, good jet, no drips

The 4 originals from my car's engine:
1 x DL0 20B - release at 29 bar, good jet, no drips
3 x DL0 20B - release at 27 bar, good jet, no drips

Random spare injectors:
3 x DL0 20B - release at 30-32 bar, good jet, small drip but OK
3 x DL0 20B - release at 22-25 bar, jet OK, but drips under residual pressure that could make cold and warm starting a problem.

2 x DL0 20B - defective


I'm going to use 4 x NOS injectors (DL0 20D).
 

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Discussion Starter #138


As you may recall, before Christmas I put the rear window in but there were a couple of issues: the lower stainless steel trim piece was perfectly straight and the glass is slightly curved, so it was constantly trying to pop the clips out. And so it did, once the glass was in.

After pulling the trim off I realized that the problem was also that the replica clips were about 2mm shorter than the originals and so didn't penetrate far enough inside the seal's rubber slot to engage with the small channel at the end where the hooked bit goes. So each of the 30 clips had to be adjusted carefully by hand to match the depth of the 16 remaining originals, which were cadmium plated a couple of years ago. In doing this - they're made of spring steel - 5 of the 30 snapped but 25 survived.

I then mounted them to the SS trim along with the 16 originals and so far it's holding well enough. Actually the rubber seal relies upon the window aperture to keep it tight. So during installation I'm going to have to ensure the helpers push hard on each clip as I pull the rubber seal through to the inside of the car to make sure the seal clamps the clip in the right position (fully inserted).
 

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Discussion Starter #139
Today, with the able help of my two daughters I remounted the rear window of the 404 Coupé with no problem at all, and the modified clips are working perfectly.

Took 5 minutes to install and this time I started from the bottom of the seal and finished at the top. I used a smaller gauge nylon cord to do the lip service (!) this time and it worked beautifully.

YES!!

 
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