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Discussion Starter #142
Getting closer, guys!

I'm still working, e-commuting from home (I'm lucky, some can't do this), but it also means I don't have tons more time than usual to spend on the car.

Soon I hope to have the carpets completely in and the front seats. Then the interior will be done and it will be time to get onto the engine and gearbox.
 

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Discussion Starter #143
And today, the naughty....err....dirty bits....

Removal of crankshaft, camshaft, pistons, liners...

Summary:

  • Crankshaft journals looks more or less OK: 0.3 mm should do.
  • The upper (compression, I presume) rings were broken on all 4 pistons (!!)
  • Lifters and peak of the cams on cylinder 4 were heavily worn (oddly, the other were OK)
  • Sleeves were not too rusty in the water jacket area and the block where the seals mate is perfect.
  • There was a lot of very thick sediment deposited in the lower sides of cylinders 1 and 2, especially by the block drain hole on #1.
I have new pistons, sleeves etc; however I could use a new cam or maybe get a regrind. Need new lifters of course.

 

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...what the heck Mike...I thought you had that engine built already...
...are you staying stock or are you going for some pep?..

Jetfuel....bored and stroked comes to mind...lol
 

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Discussion Starter #145
Engine not done! Yet. I saved it for last.

I have virtually all the new parts I need at home, but I'll try to snag a NOS injection cam the Club in France has for 60 EUR to replace my pitted one. Engine block needs a hot tank. New head needs stellite exhaust seats. Crank needs a turning or two. Then it's a question of assembly.

Modifications will be limited to later version head gasket, which raises the compression ratio from 8.8:1 to 9.3:1, should make the 1600 hit 100 HP even. Maybe a port and polish if the machine shop recommends it.

The wet liners are removable as you can see so the next step up is a stroker crank from a 1800 cc ealy 504, but they're 81 mm stoke versus 73 so the piston speeds go WAY up, the engine doesn't like to rev as much and the benefits are doubtful. Last mod could be a 2L 504 Injection engine but they look different even though the basic layout is the same - same 81 mm stroke but piston diameter goes from 84 to 88 mm. Those engines have 110 HP stock but can deliver 160 HP in rally tune but that's the big bucks and something best reserved for a future 404 sedan rally car....

This 404C is a cruiser, 100 HP is enough for it.
 

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...I like the way you think...a little more CR and a port polish will do the trick....
...no need for a self destruct engine Mr Phelps...

Jetfuel...
 

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Discussion Starter #147
The engine is totally apart now, as noted. The cam has bad wear so I am trying to source a new one from Le Club 404's stock. The new head and piston/sleeve kit are in the two cardboard boxes.


Today, after cleaning off the engine block and moving it to where you see it above, I made 10 spacers for the carpet snaps. These space the carpet appropriately for the thickness of the undelay, so they're not puckered.


Original Peugeot clips used for the visible ones. The rest are virtually the same.
 

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Discussion Starter #148
The underlay for the rear transmission tunnel was installed along with the carpet, the rear floor carpets.... and then the passenger seat.


My wife Sandy tried out the seat for height and comfort.
 

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Discussion Starter #149
Drilled 3 holes in the panels to mount the new carpet in the front driver's side. The fourth hole was already there above the accelerator pedal.



Also mounted the new speedometer cable and the accelerator cable. The driver's seat was a bit of a bear to install because the captive bolts in the bodyshell were not long enough to penetrate the new (thicker) seat runners and so I had to knock it out and put a bolt and (blind) nut inside one.



The interior is now done apart from the transmission tunnel, which is still naked because I have to install the C3 gearbox and its Nardi floor shifter before final trimming. That'll be a while then.

 

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Discussion Starter #150 (Edited)
Mounted the glovebox on Saturday. It is a drawer under the dashboard under the Pininfarina badge. I have the Italian F.I.S.T. key for its lock! Still looking for the connecting trims between the dash pad and the pillar trims. Somewhere in the garage.....



Sunday I cleaned and sorted all my nuts and bolts into the proper sizes.
 

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Discussion Starter #151
Saturday I'm going to rebuild the AEG/KF fuel lift pump with a kit supplied by my buddy Peter van Deukeren from the Netherlands.

The tiny bearings:


The shaft seal:


The kit:


My two AEG PLF 5 pumps:



And today, because I couldn't find the original clips for the dash pad, I made these out of 1mm thick spare rocker panel/sill material. They now have to be covered with a thin layer of black vinyl. They join the top of the soft dashboard pad with the soft A-pillar trims. Each one has been shaped by hand to fit each side very well.

 

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Discussion Starter #153
Dismantling of the AEG/KF fuel lift pump.

A little bit of electrical tape over the motor's drive pinion facilitated the armature's extraction from the pump body without in any way damaging the original grease seal, which is still supple. So I will leave it in place and use the same technique to re-insert the pinion through this seal.


The freed armature.


Making up some different sized slotted washers in the garage made short work of extracting the tiny drive pinion and nearly as tiny bearings.


Armature mounted on a drill in a vise so I could polish the commutator/slip ring with fine emery cloth.


Comparison between the armature of my car (4598609) on the right and that of a scrapped Canadian Cabriolet (6800519) on the left. 4598609 has done 83,000 miles. I bought the entire drivetrain from 6800519 in 1982, and at least the electric motor seems to show the traces of more like 200.000 miles...
 

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Discussion Starter #154
Today I pressed the new bearings onto the motor shaft with a vise and then the pinion gear after it was inserted into and through the grease seal in the underside of the motor mounting plate. Checked the length of the original brushes: 6 mm and 9 mm....too short, so I looked in my spare parts stock and found two new or nearly new ones, both 12 mm long. Then the motor was tested and it was SO smooth!



Next task: the hydraulic part of the pump, which sits below the electrical part.
 

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Discussion Starter #155
Today I reassembled the hydraulic part od the AEG/KF PLF5A fuel lift pump.

Bad surprise: despite the excellent condition of the electrical part of the original pump that equipped my car, the same could not be said of the hydraulic part. The idler pinion inside the pump chamber was seized to its shaft! The last time I ran the engine was about 2005 so the seizure occurred after that....I presume after I disassembled the car in 2016. Also, the lower plate that covers the pump chamber has a regulation valve that is supposed to be removed and checked during a rebuild like this and it too was seized! Anyway, all was not lost...

...because I have a spare lift pump from a car I used to own in 1981-1985 and its hydraulic portion was perfect. All it needed was a thorough cleaning.


Cleaning nearly done and the last bits about to go back together....


And it's together. I did another dry run test with it all assembled and it sounded good. I should try a pump test, I suppose, though I have no reason to think it won't pump.
 

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Just found this post today and read through all the parts of this build. What an amazing journey. It’s hard for me to fathom that someone could have the knowledge to do all this. Thanks for sharing your process with us. It’s an inspiration to know there are craftsmen out there doing this kind of work in their garages.
 

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Discussion Starter #158
Thanks! I can't take credit for the bodywork and paint (I only paid for it!)

Last weekend I repainted the rearview mirror body and reassembled and mounted it. Harry was giving me a hard time over not yet having done that! Quite rightly!


Second time doing the driver's door panel. The window winder was not happy staying in place and that was down to the padding under the vinyl being too thick next to the embellisher. I also had to remount the lower part of the vinyl in order to slightly recontour the lower edge to better fit. And finally, the screws under the armrest were mounted.

I got new lifters and timing chain tensioner from Alveas in France, and two sets of NGK BP7ES from Rock Auto. I'll probably use them instead of the S.E.V. Marchals.
 
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