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It always helps others searching for topics if you include more than a generic subject line....
It always helps others searching for topics if you include more than a generic subject line....
Pleeeeease help (451 won't start)
My 09 pure.wont turn over. It long cranks but won’t start.ive read about checking the fuse under drivers side and it’s good.
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First you say it will not turn over. Then you say it cranks, but will not start. I am a little confused, I think cranking is about the same as turning over.
But, if it will not turnover... I would start with the battery.
But, if it will not turnover... I would start with the battery.
For any ICE vehicle to start requires fuel, spark, and compression. Those are the first things to check.
Before chasing your tail, get a code reader and see if the car’s computer is reporting a problem sensor. This could save time and effort. If there are no codes....
Pull the plugs, connect them to the ignition coils and ground the threads, looking for spark. If no spark, check the coils and fuses.
If you have spark, with the spark plugs out, you should be able to see if the full pump is delivering fuel to the cylinders. If not, check the fuel pump and fuses.
If you have spark and fuel, do a compression test to make sure there isn’t a huge leak, meaning that something in the engine has broken and needs to be rebuilt.
If you have spark, fuel, and compression, the next place to look would be crank position sensor and camshaft position sensors. I would guess that if one of these had failed, there should be a fault code that could be read using an OBD code reader.
After that, the mass air flow sensor and EGR would be the next logical places to check.
Does this help?
Before chasing your tail, get a code reader and see if the car’s computer is reporting a problem sensor. This could save time and effort. If there are no codes....
Pull the plugs, connect them to the ignition coils and ground the threads, looking for spark. If no spark, check the coils and fuses.
If you have spark, with the spark plugs out, you should be able to see if the full pump is delivering fuel to the cylinders. If not, check the fuel pump and fuses.
If you have spark and fuel, do a compression test to make sure there isn’t a huge leak, meaning that something in the engine has broken and needs to be rebuilt.
If you have spark, fuel, and compression, the next place to look would be crank position sensor and camshaft position sensors. I would guess that if one of these had failed, there should be a fault code that could be read using an OBD code reader.
After that, the mass air flow sensor and EGR would be the next logical places to check.
Does this help?
Hi...the battery tested good at auto place with full charge.andi meant when you turn key it makes that clicking sound like it does prior to starting on the norm but it does it for a few seconds but doesn’t start up.theres no dash warning lights or codesFirst you say it will not turn over. Then you say it cranks, but will not start. I am a little confused, I think cranking is about the same as turning over.
But, if it will not turnover... I would start with the battery.
That sounds like the starter. You would get a loud clicking noise but no engine rotation.when you turn key it makes that clicking sound like it does prior to starting
Aah, that’s new and valuable troubleshooting info.
I’m thinking that the main power cable to the starter has corroded and isn’t making solid contact any more. Mine rusted out and was intermittent for months before completely rusting through.
If the cable is ok. I’ll second the starter.
I’m thinking that the main power cable to the starter has corroded and isn’t making solid contact any more. Mine rusted out and was intermittent for months before completely rusting through.
If the cable is ok. I’ll second the starter.
The previous owner of my smart had this problem...Aah, that’s new and valuable troubleshooting info.
I’m thinking that the main power cable to the starter has corroded and isn’t making solid contact any more. Mine rusted out and was intermittent for months before completely rusting through.
If the cable is ok. I’ll second the starter.
He installed a push start button in front of the shifter box with a 8 gauge wire with a 30A fuse directly from the battery to the starter...
I have to put the ignition to on and start with the push start button.
I hope this is your problem - would be a cheaper fix... Just test it with a long starter cable to + on the starter and see if the starter turns!
I repaired my bad cable by replacing the eyelet on the end of the cable. I cut the cable back, installed a weatherproof junction box with an electrical union and joined a short cable with a new electrical eyelet. After reconnecting he cable on the starter, I coated the connections with protectant to help prevent the issue from happening again.
This is all good info... after your last post I agree, faulty starter, or loose/corroded connection to it.
While checking connections, also check the battery connections too.
While checking connections, also check the battery connections too.
Yeah, being on the bottom of the engine, the starter certainly takes a lot of abuse, especially in the winter in places that use salt to de-ice the roads.
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
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