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"added a self contained 8" powered sub behind the drivers seat"

curious which one you used.
Hey Dennyrex, To answer your question, I used a Lanzar Vector 8" Super Slim Active SubWoofer purchased thru Amazon, I believe Pyle makes a model that looks identical to it.
In case this info helps, I wired fused power directly from the battery under the carpeting to it along with a ground cable and the blue remote turn on wire from the stereo. I also ran a pair or RCA cables from the sub outputs on my Pioneer AVH-P8400BH head Unit to its inputs and ran the sub control cable under seat to side of center console.
I replaced the 2 rear seat bolts with taller bolts and added washers so that the bolts do not allow the drivers seat to slide past the bolt, which works out perfectly so you can't smash the drivers seat into the sub-woofer by accident if you tried. I didn't miss the space at all, i never drove with my seat all the way back ever before I installed this.
Here are some pictures, and I intend to actually cover the entire sub with a thin black car carpeting I purchased with Velcro just so it isn't visible, I doubt that affects the sound at all, as it is only felt under 100Hz frequencies, really low bass. Most of the regular bass is heard from my rear 6x9 Pioneer speakers I installed in the rear hatch door.

If I had to do it over, I doubt I would go through so much trouble if I had the larger 6x9 speakers, and 4 speakers total, it's more than enough bass!
If you only have the 2 small 6.5" door speakers then yes, probably want a sub speaker also. And this powered 8 inch is much larger than the small one under the seat the car comes with.
Thanks! Andonios
Let me know if you have any more questions. :)
 

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Pictures of My 8" Active Slim Sub Woofer mounted behind drivers seat

Hi Everyone,
I just took some pictures to show the installation of the sub woofer behind my drivers seat in my 2008 Smart fortwo. If you notice, the drivers seat seems to have more clearance behind it in my opinion this is because your feet go deeper in the footwell on the drivers side than the passenger side, so that's why I decided to install it there. I didn't want to lose any storage space in the rear for when I go shopping at Costco and fill it all up! LOL

Enjoy the pictures, and if you have any questions I will be glad to help!
Andonios :)
 

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A Few More Pictures of My SubWoofer Install

Hi Everyone, I upgraded my membership so apparently I can upload larger photos now, that's great! Here are 3 more photos of my install.

Changing the 2 rear bolts holding the drivers seat down with taller bolts and washers was actually an accident! LOL Yup, I lost the 2 factory bolts and the only 2 I found at a local hardware store where a little bigger length wise, so I added a few washers and then noticed the seat hit the bolts when sliding back and wouldn't allow the seat to go as far back anymore. I thought to myself, awesome! Now if I lend my car to someone they can't smash my drivers seat into my new sub by accident if they slide too far back cause they don't know.

So sometimes things just work out for the best, right?
I purchased a thin black car carpeting and plan to cut a piece in the shape of the sub and cover it with it using Velcro so the sub is totally hidden from view, just in case someone thinks it's more valuable than it actually is. I did screw it into the car metal base through the carpeting but only the top 2 screws, the bottom of it I stuck into 2 slits I made in the carpeting so it is nice and snug, no vibration at all.

Thanks, Andonios
 

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That one looks good

"I used a Lanzar Vector 8" Super Slim Active SubWoofer"

excellent, thanks. I was looking at this one:
Sound Ordnance™ B-8PT 120-watt compact powered subwoofer at Crutchfield.com
it's a similar size and shape. haven't decided yet. quite sure I don't need 600 watts ;-) and was wondering about he placement. it looks like it works well.
I just looked at it on Crutchfield and it looks very smiliar and it has a lot of positive reviews, so that's a great sign. Good luck with it if you get it!
Andonios
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
How would Thouse speakers work with the original radio?

I'd Like a little more volume for when I'm on the turn pike with top down:)

The origianl sub seems to work ok.
These speakers would work very well with the factory radio, but if you upgrade the sound system, the first place to start is always the headunit. Trust me on this one. The new headunit actually helps the stock speakers sound better and louder!
 

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I kinda like the orginal radio 10

hmmm nm just ate another cd

any radio recomendations?

Dual XHD6430 CD receiver at Crutchfield.com



These speakers would work very well with the factory radio, but if you upgrade the sound system, the first place to start is always the headunit. Trust me on this one. The new headunit actually helps the stock speakers sound better and louder!
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·

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These speakers would work very well with the factory radio, but if you upgrade the sound system, the first place to start is always the headunit. Trust me on this one. The new headunit actually helps the stock speakers sound better and louder!

I'd change speakers first,,, No matter what you put in front of those $10 speakers smart puts in there it still sounds like kaka.

Put lipstick on a pig and it's still a pig:D
 

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Used a slightly modified smartcar111 "destroyer method" of door speaker install for a new pair of Infinity Reference 6032cf 2-way Coaxial Speakers.

Broke off the speaker grill ring followed by the grill itself using a screwdriver causing no harm to the door panel. After tearing the cone from the not so smart "dollar store" speaker used small tin snips to cut the plastic frame as close to the edge of the hole as possible. Left the speaker frame ring on the backside of the door panel and used a Dremel tool to remove the speaker grill mount tabs from the hole edge.

No fuss, no muss with R&R door panel and no holes in the weather shield inside the door - thanks smartcar111.

And the upgrades to tunes, PRICELESS! :D
 
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