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Hey all!

New to smart and even newer to EVs. Just bought a 2013 ED a few weeks ago and I feel like I should get it looked at as it's been about a year since the previous owner got it serviced. I just got my BAP paperwork in and am sending it off tomorrow but I have three questions.

1. Is the Seattle MB Dealership the only place I can take it to be serviced? Do they even have the capabilities? I looked on plugshare and it didn't even look like they had a charger there to charge it so I can make it back to Tacoma. I did some searching and reading on here and saw where the scSeattle was gutted in 2012. I emailed them about servicing for it and they started talking about spark plugs (yes, I told them it was an ED). Loss of confidence right off the bat.

2. I was reading on here and in my BAP contract that the battery itself has to be insured making it sound like I need a completely separate policy for a battery. Is this correct? What do you do?

3. When it comes to the BAP inspections/tests, do they determine when that is or is it just a bring it in within 12 months kind of deal.

Definitely didn't see all this coming when I saw my smart for sale for $5,999 but as others on here have said, this is an experiment and I'm proud to be one of the first participants.

Thanks!
 

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2. I was reading on here and in my BAP contract that the battery itself has to be insured making it sound like I need a completely separate policy for a battery. Is this correct? What do you do?
Welcome Doctor! Congratulations on the new ride!

The battery should be covered with your regular policy, unless it specifically excludes it (some policies in Europe do). All they're saying is you need coverage.

3. When it comes to the BAP inspections/tests, do they determine when that is or is it just a bring it in within 12 months kind of deal.
It should say in the contract. Mine says every 12 months or 10k miles, whichever comes first. So I'm there every 9 months on average.
 

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1. Is the Seattle MB Dealership the only place I can take it to be serviced? Do they even have the capabilities? I looked on plugshare and it didn't even look like they had a charger there to charge it so I can make it back to Tacoma. I did some searching and reading on here and saw where the scSeattle was gutted in 2012. I emailed them about servicing for it and they started talking about spark plugs (yes, I told them it was an ED). Loss of confidence right off the bat.
MBUSA told me that any MB dealership that is "Electric Certified" can service my smart ED. In Portland there are two "Electric Certified" MB dealerships.

2. I was reading on here and in my BAP contract that the battery itself has to be insured making it sound like I need a completely separate policy for a battery. Is this correct? What do you do?
BAP has created LOTS of difficulties with insurance. When I bought my 2015 ED in December of 2014, I spent weeks and weeks going back and forth with my insurer (Travelers) about the battery. At first they said that they insure cars not batteries. Since I don't own the battery they won't insure it. Eventually, they decided that the battery was an essential part of the car so they would insure it. That led to difficulty determining how to insure the sled+battery so that in the event of a total loss, the BAP residual would be paid off. I ended up with "Replacement Car Coverage". I'm not highly confident that this would truly cover me in the event of a total loss, but that's where I landed.

3. When it comes to the BAP inspections/tests, do they determine when that is or is it just a bring it in within 12 months kind of deal.
I'd ask MBUSA when the battery was last serviced and then stick to that schedule. Another option, is to wait for the warning on the dashboard that the battery needs to be serviced in the next 30 days.

Definitely didn't see all this coming when I saw my smart for sale for $5,999 but as others on here have said, this is an experiment and I'm proud to be one of the first participants.
I think you'll like the experience of driving your ED. I love mine! Welcome to SCoA!
 

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Thanks, all! What kind of charges can I expect when I take it in? When I called they said around $250 but they didn't sound much more confident talking about EDs on the phone either.
My understanding is that if you have the BAP, then the cost for that annual service is zero. I don't have BAP and it cost me $55. Now the other maintenance things will cost you, but nearly all of them are "check this" and "inspect that," stuff that you can easily do yourself. There is also the cabin air filter that is an easy DIY job. Brake fluid every two years may or not be a DIY job for you.

Is your car still under warranty? If so, have the dealer fix anything that needs it before the warranty expires.
 

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Brake fluid every two years may or not be a DIY job for you.
It is also an unnecessary job - specified only for the purpose of bringing in service income to the dealers. I run cars into the ground, and I have never changed the brake fluid - except as part of brake repair work that requires bleeding the system (and even then it is only a partial replacement) in any car I've owned.
 

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It is also an unnecessary job - specified only for the purpose of bringing in service income to the dealers. I run cars into the ground, and I have never changed the brake fluid - except as part of brake repair work that requires bleeding the system (and even then it is only a partial replacement) in any car I've owned.[/QUOTE

To each his own, but for me, for under ten bucks every two years, I'll be changing my brake fluid. It absorbs water over time and not only loses some effectiveness but can also cause rust in some brake parts that cost a whole lot more than brake fluid. Until about 1985 Mercedes recommended brake service every year. Then they went to the two year interval. If they really wanted to suck you in for service, then they should have just left it at one year.

Len
2014 EV
 

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The problem with brake fluid is that it's hard to predict the rate of moisture absorption or ionic contamination. But when either gets too much the consequences are catastrophic: either brake failure or corrosion on critical parts, which can also lead to brake failure.
2 years is based on the worst-case. Of course most of us will be lucky and it's rarely really needed. It's like an insurance. You do the change every couple years so nothing worse happens.
Of course, you could test for moisture (easy) or ionic contamination (harder), to tell when you really need to change it, but for the average guy it's much easier to just change the fluid.

Get speed-bleeders and it's a 10min job that you can do by yourself.
 

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There is an old joke about the mechanic that had an open can of brake fluid on the shelf. He said he never replaced it because it always filled itself when he used a bit. Brake fluid should come from a sealed bottle. If you get water in the fluid, it can boil when the brakes get hot and steam will not stop your car as fast as pure brake fluid. In a panic situation (which we hope never happens) is it worth it to save a few bucks?

I was glad I had fairly new fluid when I hit the brakes trying to avoid the deer I smoked last fall. unfortunately I didn't see it before it was too late.
 
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