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Discussion Starter #1
I figured I'd make a thread for the electric drive for all the little questions that mat not each warrant their own thread.

I'll start things off.

1) What is the most energy efficient speed to be around, on the 3rd gen model?

2) Is there ever a circumstance where shifting to neutral can be more energy efficient than trusting the regenerative braking?

3) Is there a way to keep the cigarette lighter 12v socket running, without leaving the key in the car?
 

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Sounds like a good idea to me?

1) don't know?

2) I assume you mean coasting in neutral vs regen? regen will always put "some" power back into the battery pack? Unless you are at full (100%) charge at the top of a long downhill, I can't imagine why you would not want to regen?

3)don't know?
 

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1) As with the petrol model, I bet the MPH sweet spot is in the range of 30-45 MPH.

2) If you have the paddles, you can turn regen off for coasting. No need to shift into Neutral. If you don't have the paddles, put very light pressure on the accelerator. That will also deactivate regen and allow coasting to a stop.

3) You'd have to re-wire the 12V socket to an "always live" slot on the SAM...then add a switch if you'd like...
 

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3) In my ICE smart, I added an auxiliary set of 12 Volt Cigarette Lighter sockets attached to the underside/middle of the dash. I wired these with an inline 10 amp fuse to the battery under the passenger's foot well. I either got the triple outlet from Radio Shack or Pep Boys (can't remember). Thus, they are always on. Oh, I also included plugs in the middle of the wire that are compatible with my battery tender trickle charger. Thus, if the smart is not going to be driven for a while I can connect the charger without having to pull up the carpet, etc. A dash camera is plugged into the socket that supplies Voltage only when the car is running and a Tom Tom GPS is plugged into one of the always-on sockets. If the smart ED has the 12 Volt battery in the same spot you can do the same.
 

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1) There is no sweet spot. Sweet spots in gas cars are there because as you go slower, the gas engine becomes horribly inefficient, so you don't gain anything from lower wind/rolling drag. This doesn't apply to us. Yes the motor efficiency is slightly lower at lower power/rpm, but that's insignificant relative to lower drag. So the slower you go, the less energy used per mile.

I want someone to spend all day rolling at the "creep" speed and see how far they can get :D

2) Coasting (in neutral, or D- with regen paddles) is more efficient than regen braking, if it slows you down fast enough. I.e. if you're going downhill and this keeps you close enough to the speed limit. It's always better than slowing down faster than necessary using regen and then stepping on go again to speed up again. Regen is better than friction brakes, but it's still lossy: not all kinetic energy gets charged into the battery!

3) second Neo.
Keep in mind that the 12V battery will not be charged by the DC-DC converter in this case, except while the HV battery is being charged, and you can run it down enough to be unable to energize the HV contactor. Just like a gas car with a dead battery from leaving the radio on all night...
"while the HV battery is being charged" here means while it's actually being charged. Once the battery is full, the DC-DC converter will be turned off again even if the car is still plugged in. Don't know if it would turn itself back on when the 12V battery goes low. Another thing that needs trying!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys, that's insightful.

Where is the 12v accessory battery in the ED, and what is its chemistry, sealed lead acid?

When I first got the car I popped the hood to go looking for it but didn't see it. I figured there was a misprint in the owner's manual and the HV battery was just using an inverter to directly power accessories.
 

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The 12V "auxilary" battery is a standard Lead Acid one.

Location is under the passenger footwell.
Pull back carpet, unscrew 2 plastic screws on door side.
remove black styrofoam block.
There's your Aux battery.
 

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Now I've got one of my own questions about the Electric Drive.

OK, had my Electric Drive for a few days.

Total of 58 miles.

Had it's first good highway run this morning.

Noticed a distinct VERY MILD electrical burning smell?

I know that on the ICE smarts there is a coating they put on the motor that burns off after a few hundred miles?

I am guessing there is probably something similar on the Electric Drive?

Any other ED owners notice this smell? and does it go away?
 

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[...]
Any other ED owners notice this smell? and does it go away?
I didn't notice any smell when I got my ED about two months ago.

Mine, however, had 67 miles on it when I took delivery because they had to drive it from another dealership. Perhaps those rebel, friction-causing electrons already burned up and fell off along the way.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
OK, thought of another one. I plugged my Bluetooth ODB-II sensor (used previously on a Dodge) into the ODB port on this car and tried to run the Torque app on Android. It connected, but no data was displayed. Does anyone know if there's a sensor model that's confirmed to be compatible? Or do these smartphones apps just not know what to do because most data (transmission, O2 sensors, etc.) don't apply to it?
 

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Did you reset the app data before transferring it over to the smart?
 

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OK, thought of another one. I plugged my Bluetooth ODB-II sensor (used previously on a Dodge) into the ODB port on this car and tried to run the Torque app on Android. It connected, but no data was displayed. Does anyone know if there's a sensor model that's confirmed to be compatible? Or do these smartphones apps just not know what to do because most data (transmission, O2 sensors, etc.) don't apply to it?

No data was displayed because there is no data to display. Those generic scanner functions read only emissions-related fault codes and data. Zero emissions means zero data. One would need a much more capable diagnostic tool to read manufacturer-specific motor and battery data.
 

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OK, had my Electric Drive for a few days.

Total of 58 miles.

Had it's first good highway run this morning.

Noticed a distinct VERY MILD electrical burning smell?

I know that on the ICE smarts there is a coating they put on the motor that burns off after a few hundred miles?

I am guessing there is probably something similar on the Electric Drive?

Any other ED owners notice this smell? and does it go away?



i havent smelled that kind of smell
 

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Noticed a distinct VERY MILD electrical burning smell?
I had a similar smell the first long trip home (from the dealer). I was a little worried about it, but it was gone by the time I got home and hasn't returned since. I'd chalk it up to "new engine" unless it happens again.
 
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