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Discussion Starter #1
I got my Smart ED on May 1.

I've driven it 1150 miles since then. I charge it when it's below 30 miles of range, which often means I have 15 to 20.

Recently the estimated range seems to have taken a decline.

This morning, for example, fully charged (was at 24 miles range last night) it said I had 58 miles of range. I drove it quite carefully about four miles round trip, and it says I have 56 miles of range.

I'm "okay" with the range estimates adjusting depending on how you drive it (the 4 miles this morning was to the post office and back - mostly downhill to the post office, and uphill back of course), but I'm curious why it no longer says "68" or so when I get into the car.

I generally achieve good "Eco" ratings (useless as they are) when driving, and my driving is a mix of "light city" and highway (even the seven-mile trip to work is about 3.5 of each).

It was 73° outside this morning, so it's not like it was particularly cold or hot.

Also, is there a way to "reset" the range estimates? I can see the "RESET" indicator that has an arrow, but pushing the button doesn't seem to do anything. The manual is elsewhere at the moment or I would just RTFM. :)

My in-laws live 25 miles away, so a range estimate of "57" makes my wife nervous to visit them. She'd feel a lot more comfortable if it said "68" again.

Any help or insights are appreciated. Thanks!

Edit: I do not have the A/C or heat on. The car reports 57 miles or so when I get in first thing with a full charge.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Also, I might be a moron. The manual is available online, and "Button 6" is not the button I thought it was. :p

Sorry. I pushed the left button on the dash just now and the range is estimated at 101 miles. :)

I'll accept my floggings in private, please. :D
 

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I got my ED on May 24th. It always says 86 miles. I commute 63 miles round trip everyday. I only charge at home on my L2cripple Creek charger. I am at 1400 miles and the car is very consistent and a total blast to drive. I will never own a gas car again. If I need to go long distance I'll rent for the day. Just my two cents worth. P.S. Its flat and hot here.
 

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I got my ED on May 24th. It always says 86 miles. I commute 63 miles round trip everyday. P.S. Its flat and hot here.
I've seen my 100% SOC range periodically above 100km, but not always, mostly due to the way I drive the car (30% ECO score). >:D Whereas, I've driven it 135 km on a single charge over the span of a few days while driving "my normal" way.


I am at 1400 miles and the car is very consistent and a total blast to drive. I will never own a gas car again.
+1
My feelings exactly!

If I need to go long distance I'll rent for the day.
Makes sense.

The BMW i3 has a range extender (REx) option that goes for ~$4000. With taxes and 2% financing over 6 years, that's a ~$5500 option.

At $50 per day to rent a compact car, it would take 110 rental days to equal the REx. That is 18 rental days per year...:nerd:
 

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Over the ~5,000 miles I've driven so far this year I've gotten about 3.0 miles/kWh. Which makes it a max range of ~52 miles per charge for us (17.6x3).

I'm surprised some people are able to commute 63 miles everyday. Maybe our car is defective, or more likely, my driving style is defective.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My in-laws are preferable over my actual parents, actually. :)

Anyway, when I reset it at 95% battery or so, it said my range was 103 miles. :)

Even now after some more driving around, it says 74% and 63 miles of range. Very little of it was highway. Eco display is 100%.
 

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Over the ~5,000 miles I've driven so far this year I've gotten about 3.0 miles/kWh. Which makes it a max range of ~52 miles per charge for us (17.6x3).

I'm surprised some people are able to commute 63 miles everyday. Maybe our car is defective, or more likely, my driving style is defective.
You are forgetting that everytime you take your foot off the accellerator pedal or press on the brake pedal you are putting more KWh back into the car from "regeneration" So even though you may put 17.6 kWh into it at the charger, you may put 3 or 4 more into it through decelleration.

There is no way to directly correlate the 17.6kWh capacity with how far you can actually go when driving the car, especially if you do a lot of stop-and-go driving. Well, I guess there is, based on experience and traveling the same commute time and time again.

I get used to calulating based on known distances, i.e. " I know that it takes 20% to get home from Parkway Plaza. Can I get to Parkway Plaza and still have 20% on the meter?" It is a very different way of thinking than the ICE guys use, but it works. I have landmarks all over town that are used to calculate the "get-home" possibilities.
 

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My commute is flat and stop and go 40 mph to a high of 55 mph. In the morning with the headlights on and the radio on. it takes me 34% to go 32.5 miles. and the same to come home. I have found that driving slower really aggravates everyone else and I laugh more when I arrive at a main intersection only to find all the people who passed me doing 60 sitting at the red light burning gas. I want to say that I am not concerned with tracking all the little details. I will take this car back to the dealer in year or two and come away with something that will go 200 miles. Also remember that there is going to be a big market for quality used EV's that really does not exist at this time. So some of us my fare quite well when the time comes to upgrade.
 

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Over the ~5,000 miles I've driven so far this year I've gotten about 3.0 miles/kWh.
It depends more on conditions than driving style, I think.

I get ~ 4.5 on side roads with neither heat nor A/C running. ~ 4.0 on the highway, if I keep to 55-60 mph. 3.5 at 65-70mph. < 3.0 in the winter with the heater going.
 

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Also remember that there is going to be a big market for quality used EV's that really does not exist at this time. So some of us my fare quite well when the time comes to upgrade.
Nice to meet an optimist on this site.

If they sell new for $25,000 and there is $10,000 in tax rebates, etc that the used car buyer does not get, um... It's immediately worth $15,000 less normal profit and holdback the minute you drive it off, so say $12-13,000 when it is one month old. So what could it be worth in 3 years?

I'm guessing about $6000 at the end of 3 years with about 30,000 miles on it. But that could be optimistic based on what kind of incentives are on new ones at that time.

But hey, maybe new ones will be selling for $45,000; that would make our used Smarties worth a lot more.
 

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I have chosen to lease. Why, because I was already spending $245 a month in gas. Lease payment was $139 for the car only. I needed to by some additional miles which brought the payment up a little bit higher to $141.02 per month. Lease (rent) the battery pack $$85.60 per month, which comes in at $226.62 per month. :) I have a new cool car, I haven't been to a gas station in over a month. :) Im not polluting the air.:) Most people who buy will not get the Fed. Tax Break of $7500 because you have to owe that much or more to get it. It's a scam. Lets say you owe the IRS $2800 bucks for 2014, you would only get $2800 of the $7500. Thats how I understand it. As far as what the car will be worth, I don't care, it belongs to Mercedes Benz, Here it is , now give me a newer one. For people who do buy I believe a 2 or 3 year ED will be worth a lot more than $6000. Maybe as much as $10,000 or $12,000. There just isn't any way to know at this time. But as EV's become more common place on the roads That used market will develop. I just can't believe Im driving an electric car. It's bad ass. Soon I will have a star trek replicator ( 3D Printer ) on my kitchen counter. America, What a great place to live.
 

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I'm guessing about $6000 at the end of 3 years with about 30,000 miles on it. But that could be optimistic based on what kind of incentives are on new ones at that time.
I would buy mine for $6k after 3yrs, but my residual is around $13k. I would probably also want to own the battery instead of BAP even with reduced range. Range could be half what it is now and I could just charge it every night to get to work and back.
 

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There is no way to directly correlate the 17.6kWh capacity with how far you can actually go when driving the car, especially if you do a lot of stop-and-go driving. Well, I guess there is, based on experience and traveling the same commute time and time again.
I think the miles per kWh display takes regen into account, doesn't it? I sometimes see it going up on long downhills.
 

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I thought the $139/month lease advertisement was for the car AND the battery. What am I missing?
$141.02 + $85.60 BAP = $226.62 per month.

$88 mo higher than the base $139 x 36 mo because of the additional miles beyond 30,000 and possibly some optional equipment beyond the base cost of $20,740 MSRP?

The fine print . . .

MY2014 electric drive coupe with Battery Assurance PlusSM
$139/mo. For 36 months lease

Advertised 36 months lease payment based on MSRP of $20,740 less the suggested dealer contribution resulting in a total gross capitalized cost of $20,740. Dealer contribution may vary and could affect your actual lease payment. Includes Destination Charge. Excludes title, taxes, registration, license fees, insurance, dealer prep and additional options. Total monthly payments equal $5,004. Cash due at signing includes $999 capitalized cost reduction, $295 acquisition fee and first month's lease payment of $59, and the one-month battery assurance plus vehicle lease payment of $80 plus tax. No security deposit required. Total payments equal $6,298. At lease end, lessee pays for any amounts due under the lease, any official fees and taxes related to the scheduled termination, excess wear and use plus $0.25/mile over 30,000 miles, and $395 vehicle turn-in fee. Purchase option at lease end for $12,892 plus taxes (and any other fees and charges due under the applicable lease agreement) in example shown.

new electric cars. custom mini electric vehicles. smart USA
 

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I'd sure like for Ed to chime in with what extras he has to bring that lease up so much. I've done some casual looking and don't see enough options to get the lease that high. Same with the mileage number - unless he spec'ed it for a huge number of miles over 30,000, I don't see it? I had a hard time even getting the total lease amount over $150 including the battery plan.

Len
 

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ED114, something wrong with that lease payment unless the MSRP of your vehicle was $29,000+ The standard $25,000 ED is $139+ tax and includes the BAP. Additional miles can add from $6 to $18 depending how many miles you need.

Plus if you work the dealer there is a good chance you can do better than the $139/mo number
 
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