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Greetings

2014 Smart ED. I noticed some wetness and minor oil leaks on the bottoms on the diff. I can't really tell where the leaks is coming from. The drive axle going into the diff looks dry. It looks almost if the bottom of the diff itself is leaking..

Any comment or suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Oils seen towards to bottom...



The axle shift area does not appear to have any leaks...

 

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Verifying that the drain and plug is tight and sealing would the the first, easy thing to check. Then remove the fill plug and verify that the fluid is within a 1/4 inch of the low point of the fill hole. The fluid gunk coating may just be from past filling/checking the fluid level. Clean the case and see if any evidence of leakage re-appears. A leak so small that a drop in fluid level is not noticeable is not a leak to worry about.

I forgot what type of gear oil is specified for it. I found mine a little low from the factory, so I topped it off with a little Mobil 1 75W-90 which I had on hand.
 

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I'm happy to report that after cleaning the area with brake cleaner, there are no further wetness or leak observed after more than a week of driving. Thanks for all the responses.
 

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Glad the leak is gone, but hopefully it is not because it is out of oil...
Hopefully not.. LOL. It actually has been almost 2 weeks since I cleaned it. If it is out of oil I would expect some serious trouble by now. (I go on the freeway daily too..) :)
 

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Like the old theory about Harley Motorcycles, if they stop leaking oil, they probably ran out..Only applies to some years...
 

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Glad the leak is gone, but hopefully it is not because it is out of oil...
I'm guessing that your remark is half in jest, but if all the oil had leaded out, the case and wherever the car is regularly parked, would be a whole lot gunkier than the photo.

But checking it is easy enough - can't recall what size wrench it takes tho...
 

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saw the same thing on my Land Rover with the swivel balls on the front axle. once they stopped leaking. I ended up replacing pivot bearings (2 on each side) and a CV joint on the axle. Was a major pain to fix and got expensive real fast. I take oil leaks much more serious now.
 

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Or, if you're an old fart like me, you probably remember how the engine in practically every US-made car made before 1980 or so would become a ball of black gunk after a few years from oil oozing from the cheap, stamped metal valve covers. The old Chrysler slant-6 was legendary.

And big black gunk spots, toward one end of a regularly used parking space, was the norm.

And everyone should occasionally visit a local classic/hot rod car meet to be reminded what every pre Clean Air Act car smelled like when it was running...yet I hardly recall noticing anything unpleasant about the smell of all those unburned hydrocarbons back in those days. I would adjust the idle mixture screw of the carburetor by sniffing the tailpipe - the mixture was right when the exhaust had a lighter sweeter smell.
 

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Never had to change the oil, it wasn't in there long enough to get dirty.. Just keep adding more.. Also helped combat rust on the frame/body...

You do realize this is the Electric Drive section, they don't have a motor that leaks oil per say...
 

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You do realize this is the Electric Drive section, they don't have a motor that leaks oil per say...
It's "per se".

But yes, Just taking a stroll down memory lane. But I do remember as a kid reading articles about all these super-battery technologies (this was long before lithium ion was even being thought of) and people building lead-acid electric car conversions in their garage - the Corvair was a popular model for conversions.
 

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I had afew corvairs, they were a pretty heavy car for an electric conversion in my opinion, much more fun to put a V8 in. It did tend to use up the back seat. my wife claims that is my attraction to smart , the rear engine design...
 
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