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Discussion Starter #1
Howdy,

I have been reading a lot of the old spare tire topics, in order to study the best solution. Also read the ones about the rim adapters.

Why a spare? Brazilian roads are filled with potholes, and every time I had a flat in the last 10 years (let´s say once a year) it was due to a bent rim or a cut in the sidewall of the tire. So, a spare tire here in Brazil is not a "luxury", it´s a necessity.

Here´s the deal: Here in Brazil smarts were never offered with steel rims (no Pure version here). So, we have no "official" option for using a donut tire for a spare. I´d be stuck with an alloy rim and the extra space it takes.

I could buy the 3.5 rim from smartstuff (UK) but it would take forever to get here and pass through customs.

Checking the wheel spacer/adapter topic, I´ve concluded that both the 3x112PCD (smart) and the 5x112PCD (Benz) share one of the holes (let´s call it the top hole). What isn´t very clear for me is the locations of the other two holes when "compared" to the Benz PCD. The evilution schematic (above).



I know, from basic geometry, that they would need an 120 degree angle between each stud on the new drillout.

I can easily get a Benz spare rim with a donut tire around here (although 120/70-16"), which would suit just nice, and have the space needed for the extra holes. And I´m perfectly aware that a donut tire on a redrilled rim is just a TEMPORARY solution, with all the limitations and dangers it offers. But would it be safe enough? Or would it be better if the unused holes where weld shut as well?

And about the Benz center bore, is it the same as the smart 451? (57.1 milimeters)
 

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The center bore is probably the most important concern. But I'm not sure Benz even use the same bore size on all their cars?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The center bore is probably the most important concern. But I'm not sure Benz even use the same bore size on all their cars?
I don´t know either. But. that´s somewhat easy to adjust as well. My concern is if a welded steel rim "center" (in order to convert the PCD) would be safe enough (even for temporary use).

I know, a lot of people do it, some crazy folks even "reverse" the whole wheel center (not just the bolts section) in order to get negative offset, but is it reliable?
 

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I’m not a metallurgist, but even if I was, I wouldn’t be able to tell you how strong the metal in that wheel you acquired is.

I’m afraid having a larger amount of smarts here, nobody seems to know the answer because one can find a used wheel more easily, than having to drill out another.

In further research it does seem like Mercedes tends to use the same center bore if I’m not mistaken...

Does drilling 3 holes in the 4 hole wheel make better spacing? I’m definitely rusty in Geometry....
 

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Discussion Starter #5
And thanks to the known "efficiency" of Brazilian mail services, my wheel arrived from Britain (smart stuff, through DHL) earlier than the modified wheel.
 

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That DHL is amazing. Stuff from China can come in 1 day!!!

Great news!
yeah, the only reason that my DHL parcel wasn´t delivered just yet is because of the hauler´s lockout affecting Brazil. But it´s already at my city´s airport. (the modified rim, though, after three days it´s still in the distribution center of the Post Offices in the sellers city - and it´s NOT due to the lockout, that´s "standard service").

But it was expensive, though. Only in custom duties I spent 150 USD. :crying:

Basically I just spent 300 USD for a steel rim. :crying: :crying: :crying:
 
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