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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As mentioned, none of my keyfob buttons are effective. The lights flash three times when I press any button but nothing works. If I'm inside the car, it works and I can hear the locks physically move. This started happening right after I replaced the batteries in my keys. I've found threads like this and they mention the battery voltage but I'm using a CR2016 with a 3v rating, brand new battery from amazon.

Anyone have any ideas?

Thanks!
 

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According to the owners manual, when the lights flash 3 times the car is completely locked:
Global locking: Press [lock] button on the
key.
With the doors, the tailgate(s), and the
fuel filler flap closed the turn signal
lamps flash three times.

After the lights flash 3 times, the doors should be locked and the red anti-theft light should be blinking..:)

PS - if anything is not fully closed, the car won't lock...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What's strange is it happens with any button I push. However, my fiance was able to lock the car using the unlock button when she was close enough to the car. So every button on my keyfob is "lock"? Really strange...
 

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I had a problem with one of my key fobs. After changing the battery, the buttons stopped working. The key
would still work in the the ignition to drive the car. But NO open/close/tailgate using key fob buttons. During
the battery change, I had somehow "compressed" the flexible contact points in the key fob. I removed the key
battery bent the contact points upward. Key fob has worked like new, ever since..........
Also make sure the battery is turned "right side up" by matching the (+) or (-) printed inside the key fob,
and on the battery...................
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Ah, so that definitely wasn't it. My key does communicate with the car, but every button on my keyfob locks the car. This only happened after switching batteries. I'm using a CR2016 3v duracell, so from my research that should be the exact battery I need. Is there a way to reset the key or something?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So, the following worked, which I found in this thread.

  1. Place the key in your doorlock (the thread above said to use the passenger door lock, but my Smart only has one on the driver side).
  2. Rotate the key counter-clockwise
  3. While rotated, press the lock button. Note: I pressed and held on mine for a few seconds, as well as just pressed it normally.
That's it! Key reset. Thank you everyone for giving me ideas!
 

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So, the following worked, which I found in this thread.

  1. Place the key in your doorlock (the thread above said to use the passenger door lock, but my Smart only has one on the driver side).
  2. Rotate the key counter-clockwise
  3. While rotated, press the lock button. Note: I pressed and held on mine for a few seconds, as well as just pressed it normally.
That's it! Key reset. Thank you everyone for giving me ideas!
This is a new procedure that I never heard about. Thank you.
 

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My 2nd key that I was given by my late nephew had never worked. So searched around for a solution to no avail.

UPDATE: This process worked for me.
The original functional keyfob must be present.
Use the 2nd, non functional keyfob to start the car.
Drive about 2 miles, turn the car off and the 2nd keyfob started working and has been working since.

So that might be an option for some of you.
 

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My 2nd key that I was given by my late nephew had never worked. So searched around for a solution to no avail.

UPDATE: This process worked for me.
The original functional keyfob must be present.
Use the 2nd, non functional keyfob to start the car.
Drive about 2 miles, turn the car off and the 2nd keyfob started working and has been working since.

So that might be an option for some of you.

Seconding this for the benefit of searchers. My car flashed at me, indicating that my remote battery needed changing. Fine. I also put a new battery into and checked my spare remote as I always do when the everyday carry one needs a new battery. Dead as a doornail. It worked to start the car (with the known-good remote far away) but wouldn't activate the locks at all.

I figured the first step would be to confirm that the non-functioning remote's transmitter was working to eliminate the possibility of a bent or broken contact. Batteries Plus does indeed have a tester that shows if a remote is transmitting (but doesn't show anything about whether correct codes are being sent). It checks chip key function, too. But, in my case the fact that the key started the car took care of that.

I drive to Batteries Plus (1.8 mi.), using the "non-functioning" key to start the car, with the known-good remote in my pocket.

Upon arrival, the "bad" remote had regained function. It opened the locks just fine. It did pass the store's transmitter test as well. I bought a couple 2016 batteries and went on my way.

Apparently, the car reprograms a remote if its chip key is valid and a good one is present. I have no idea whether or not the remotes have to be members of a matched set or not. The car would need to be started, with the ignition lock opened, but I doubt it can tell which key is actually in the physical ignition lock.
 
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