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It took me a couple of hours, mostly since I was flying blind and didn't want to mess anything up. If I did it again I'm pretty sure I could do it in an hour or less.

Disconnect ground from battery before you do anything else.

I could only get my car jacked/ blocked up about 7-8 inches. Plenty of room to get under and do the work, but not enough to completely detatch the belly pan (otherwise it hangs down at 45 degrees and gets in the way, makes it hard to reach the forward bolts on the tank. So some creative jacking w/ front end on the ground got me enough angle to get it completely off.

After the belly pan is gone, there is a stamped metal bulkhead held in by 6 bolts behind the tank. Once that's out the tank is fully exposed. Filler tube/ hose is at right rear corner and is easy to loosen/ remove. The tank has three mounting bolts along the fromt edge, two in the back. I siphoned as much fuel out as I could to lighten it. If you're working alone remove the left rear bolt last. There is a plastic ledge under the opposite front corner flange that will hold the tank in place while you loosen that last bolt, plus you're on the "heavy" end with the charcoal canister attatched. You can't really get to any lines until you drop the tank at least part way and all except the wire to the sensor near the charcoal canister had enough slack that the tank could easily be lowered to the ground.

Once it's down, it's quick work to detatch fuel/ vent lines and electrical harness from the pump. Loosen the large plastic ring holding the pump to the tank. Before the pump will lift out of the tank you have to detatch the pick up line "T" (quick connect fittings like the two on the topside of the pump) then shove the pickup lines back into the tank to make room for the pump to slide out. You have to fish it back out and reattatch once the pump is partway back in the tank.

The pump assembly is spring loaded so you have to keep downward pressure on the pump to start the threads on the plastic retaining ring all while not disturbing the o-ring between the pump and tank.

Then it's basically reversing the above process to button it back up.Make sure that wire to evap system doesn't get pinched between the tank and subframe. I didn't bleed any lines. The pump primed itself (took 4-5 tries to start before it built up pressure and allowed the starter to crank).

Hope this is helpful.
 

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Replace perfectly good working fuel pump with a new perfectly good working fuel pump back in 2009 at Baker Motor Company (MB) came out to $1068 and change. I ordered my old fuel pump and all parts returned to me and tested it at a 42 pound head pressure in my little shop at 14VDC for 4 hours and it functioned perfectly, as it does these years later. So, I returned to Baker Motor Company and demanded they put my pump back into the car as there was nothing wrong with it when the car, once again, stranded me with a dead fuel pump, blown fuse. They fought me, of course, but relented as I was making a considerable noise about lawyers and court. I got half my money back but they refused to refund it all from the misdiagnosis of the power wire from the pump grounding out under a screw from the factory. Consider yourself lucky you figured out how to do it without the stealers.
 

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If anyone is doing this repair and need additional technical documentation, my dealer was nice enough to provide it here:
the files are zip files and inside are xps documents.

Edit ----
the instruction for the fuel tank removal is at 266KB compress and i cant get it below the 256 threshold. Darn limits.
heres the link to the instruction for removing the fuel tank : https://www.dropbox.com/s/9h0ka11l9kaqy9c/451fueltankultra.zip?dl=0
 

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