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Discussion Starter #1
I have 3 switches on one side and 1 switch on the other side. Is there any problem with evening the switches out?
 

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Do you mean the switches in the switch bank under the radio? Is your Smart a 451? I had not thought about that, but I suppose it might be possible to swap the signal wires from one switch to another, but you would not be able to easily transfer the switch covers from one location to another - they are specifically molded to their respective positions in the switch bank. You would also lose the LED functionality. Personally I don’t think I would recommend this mod fearing I could damage my SAM.
 

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It would probably be fairly easy to 3D print a replacement cover to accommodate more conventional rocker switches. But you’d need a matching circuit board or point to point wiring for connecting. The existing switch bank comes apart pretty easy. They made 8 different switch banks, depending on the particular combination required. Seems pretty stupid that they didn’t make it more modular. One of the more toy-like components.
 

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It would probably be fairly easy to 3D print a replacement cover to accommodate more conventional rocker switches. But you’d need a matching circuit board or point to point wiring for connecting. The existing switch bank comes apart pretty easy. They made 8 different switch banks, depending on the particular combination required. Seems pretty stupid that they didn’t make it more modular. One of the more toy-like components.
Use extreme caution should you decide to try this because the signals are switched through the SAM. If the SAM is damaged, it may render the car inoperable.
 

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Evilution has fairly complete instructions, including pinout diagrams, on his website.

There is little chance of damaging the SAM as long as you disconnect the battery first. The battery should always be disconnected before performing any electrical work.
 

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Why don’t you make some water base small decals. Of a injector seat, and front laser guns. Apply Them to the blanks button slots.

you buy these decals off eBay too.


62831
 

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From what I can see, I have a 2011 with bare switches, no heated seats, tpms, fog, or alarm. Being a 2011 ex car2go, it was produced without tpms, meaning I have no sensors in the rims.

I found a switch in the auto wrecker with fully loaded switches, and when taking it apart I was able to remove the TPMS switch cover and replace it with a blank. I did this as I was concerned some tire shop would see the TPMS switch and mandate that I must have sensors in the wheels even though for 2011 it somehow missed getting this.

So from what I can see on both switches is that they are fully wired from the factory and you just replace covers for the appropriate option necessary. The covers have 4 small prongs that prevent them from being pushed in, and if removed they become fully operational. You however should drill a small 1/8" hole to permit the led light to illuminate through.

No having done this I first attempted to purchase a fully operational switch on eBay and it was around $115 as compared to a bare switch which was around $15. So for the additional $100 all you are getting is the exterior face plates for the switch as the switches are basically identical.
 

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The switch banks are different between models. Switch banks with additional functions are populated with additional chips and LEDs.

The back of the switch bank is equipped with a locking female connector. Pins can be tricky to find. In my case, I was able to use a pin extractor to pull one out of a scrapped connector

Evilution has great instructions for using the buttons for additional functions. Switching is momentary, negative trigger, but latching relays can be added for toggling.

I used the only spare button in my Passion’s switch bank to power my aftermarket radio on and off without the need to turn the key. A 15-Amp diode keeps the switch from backfeeding to the rest of the car’s other circuitry and I also added a timer to turn the radio off after an hour should I accidentally turn the radio on and walk away from the car so I don’t return to a dead battery.

I tried adding an LED to the circuit board to illuminate with the new switch, but it didn’t work. I ended up cutting a hole in the existing switch cover, pulling the lens from a scrapped button, and wiring the LED with 30 gauge wire which “floats” behind the LED lens. The results look factory and I’m happy with the results.

 

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I do not think they are terminated. When I first installed the loaded switch all the light worked when the appropriate button was pushed, but did not stay on. In the case of the heated seats they illuminated, even the fog light illuminates as long as I hold my finger on the switch.

Now all I need is some heated leather seats and fog lights. The seats should work immediately upon installation of the big green relay and the fog lights will need to be activated with the help of a Star machine.
 

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I’m looking at fog lights. I’m a little concerned, because there are two turn signal light switches listed - one for use with fog lights, one without. Not sure what the difference is.
 

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The switch banks are different between models. Switch banks with additional functions are populated with additional chips and LEDs.

I cannot say about other cars, however my car is an ex car2go vehicle. The only buttons on the switch is lock and un-lock along with emergency.

the switch I got from the auto wreckers is heated seats, fog lights, tpms sensor locks and emergency button.

I dis-assembled them both and other then one made in Germany and the other in China the internals were identical and all blanks or designated switches had led lights with the exception of the ends having 2 led's each being for lower and higher heated seats.

even though my switch only had 3 activated I was able to activate the fog lights by simply replacing the outer face on the button which allowed it to move.

now saying this, the car2go is a weird vehicle, not falling into any designation especially with the 100 watt solar powered roof.

it might be quite possible that smart took fully loaded vehicles and simply deleted options they thought would be in-appropiate for people renting the vehicle.

I know they used steel wheels to stand up better and avoid curb damage. The solar roof was to keep the battery charged, the radio is wired for GPS and separate satellite tracking, etc.
 

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the fog light switch is the second switch on the bank beside the left heated seat. the wiring is in the front taped on both the left and right side. Once installing the fog light you can dis-assemble the switch bank and carefully remove the switch with a plastic tool the cut off the 4 little nibs and re-install the face. Then by pressing on the button you can barely see where the light from the led is intended to illuminate. Correctly mark this spot and remove the face plate, and drill a 1/16" hole where you marked it.

Now the hard part go to the dealer and pay 1.5 hours for him to activate the fog lights which will take less then 5 minutes, however 1.5 hours is the minimun, so you might want to activate shift paddles, or even have him set up the clutch etc. Really no matter what he does it will not take him more the 30 minutes and min. charge is 90 minutes. Rather odd that of the 8 dealers I called in both Canada and US, this is now the standard charge.
 

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There is a auto recycler in Coquitlam BC who sells them for $500 CDN or about $380 US, I believe the name is Prestiage Auto recyclers
 

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Discussion Starter #20
if anyone is interested I made a template for a driving lite about 1x6.
The template fits in the back side of the lite bezel then use a scribe and etch the plastic and cut it out with a Dremmel. Clean up all the burrs and make any little adjustments for a good fit then i put 2 plumber bracing and epoxied them in on the back side of the bezel then when that dried I put more epoxy around the entire lite insert.

since I did not want to get into the SAM and other stuff I just kept it simple and spliced it into the headlight wire on each side.
I can fax you the template if you are interested.
 
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