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Good for you!! welcome to the club.. or something... been using mine daily since I installed it, still working great!!
 

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BTW - '09 Passion within 450 miles of turning 100 K on the odometer... Oh. Next purchase > Scan Gauge. Thanx again.
I would go with Ultragauge. The ultragauge is much easier on the wallet and has more that twice the features than the scangauge. The rebate on their website can be tricky tho but they have my vote. They only thing I do not like about the ultragauge is that the wire going into the display can not be unplugged.
 

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whoah!!! I disconnected the wires going to the factory fan and connected them to the replacement fan. no controllers, it just runs the fan motor just like they ran the factory motor. Been working great for almost 2 years now.

The fan wiring goes from the firewall connector (just below the steering column) out to the front bumper and then back to the fan behind the radiator. I left the old fan in place as it would have been difficult to remove.
 

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@Rustedwrench (or jacka$$ as the case may be)

Maybe wrong term but fan has a ac switch wire that says goes to ac clutch wire in the instructions for the fan controller. Also the job is done and working fine aside from not coming on with AC so be helpful or f*** off, k, thx.

Wifessmartrepairedalready
Dear WifessmartALMOSTrepaired already,

You funny. Suggest you burn instructions. Not applicable.

Signed,

Rustedjackass
 

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If you are a great guy I don't understand your posts to belittle me. Simple as that.

And yeah I'm upset. I was stranded, broken fan, no tools, no garage, and I found this thread where somebody very thoughtfully pictured and shared a way to solve a major problem for me and my wife.

I slaved out there to fix it in 90 degree humid crap with the tools I said. I still needed my own exceptional idea to mount it from the trash can since I had no tools or access to my tools which have moved already.

I can't get a wiring diagram even from alldatadiy that makes sense of what I need to have ac cut new fan on. I'm trying not to have to push 1 more wire back through firewall to ac fuse.

And there you are with put down wrenches and whatever, so yeah I didn't need it, it probably hurt my feelings under the circumstances (I had already 99% fixed car and "un-stranded" us under those circumstances) and my response reflected that.

I'm saddest for Jimvw who had to deal with the extra from both of us because you showed up and basically taunted me, and I failed and reacted. That doesn't change what you did was never positive and had no real helpfulness to it.

So to Jimvw, I'm sorry for the vitriol expressed towards Rustedwrench under those circumstances in your presence. Thanks so much for your help and sharing your experience in handling this problem in a forum on the internet for me to find when I was literally stranded in a parking lot in Atlanta with my wife or risking my motor. If anyone else posts here and I'm alive to receive it I will answer any questions about how I did it if you are having a problem. That's the point of being here, posting here.

So, with that reasoning, I also stand by my assessment of you rwrench (if only for this one encounter), that you did nothing positive for this forum about a smart car fan repair you can do in a parking lot to save yourself, your family, or friend grief and/or money and/or engine.

Wife'scarisfinishednow
 

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If you are a great guy I don't understand your posts to belittle me. Simple as that.


I can't get a wiring diagram even from alldatadiy that makes sense of what I need to have ac cut new fan on. I'm trying not to have to push 1 more wire back through firewall to ac fuse.
My original response was not meant to belittle you and I am sorry you took it that way. From my viewpoint you showed up not having posted before and were asking a question that did not make sense. You did not state what year and model smart you were working on nor what the original problem was. I thought Jim's post clearly outlined what was necessary to replace the fan with an aftermarket unit. Remove 2 wires from original fan and connect to replacement fan. Done. I did not have time to post a more detailed response and in hindsight perhaps should have waited until I could. By the same token your response to me was overwrought. Frustration will do that.

The wiring diagram does not make sense because everything on the smart is networked. The Engine Control Module monitors engine temperature and sends a networked signal to the Signals And Acquisition Module to turn on the fan. In the same manner the Heating/Ventilation/Air Conditioning control unit on the dash sends a networked request to the SAM to turn on the fan and the A/C compressor when the A/C function is engaged. You don't see them wired together on the diagram because the connections are all networked.

If you did not use the original wiring for the fan you installed I would suggest you do so. If that is done the SAM will turn on the fan when the A/C function is selected, assuming the HVAC system is working properly.

If you still have questions please post them.
 

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I have never seen a wiring diagram for my car, and still am able to get stuff to work.

That is the problem with posting sometimes, people don't know when you are kidding or not.
 

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Jimvw, I just didn't want to be wrong with no tools, resources, backup car, etc.

Thanks Rustedwrench!

That is an informative post and then some. As we got off on the wrong whole leg, thanks for that clarification of the system. It is far better an explanation of the system than I understood.

My smart is 2010 passion fortwo 451.

I double checked fan con instructions and they use term 'fan clutch wire' as the car wire to be hooked up to relay ac switch pwr wire but nobody on the internet likes their instructions.

I see given what you/Jimvw are saying using MB wires covers advanced computer (ECU/SAM network?) function and would have been easier overall. I bypassed in my repair because I was unsure of MB wiring color and exact location I could access with tools I had. Lol I definitely did not understand overall system like you do. Also I heard electric fan motor stopping, starting and such so I did not want to have a short or other electrical bs I couldn't see and be back where I started or worse.

I hooked ac on relay wire (supposedly for ac clutch in instructions) to MB hot fan wire in question with fuse after jimvw57's answer and now it turns on from there and at temp setting using battery connections. I just ran the extra wires, fuses, ground to battery, and used an extra relay (the Hayden controller) that could fail I guess. That's overall not the worst thing to me as my system will function at least to cool the motor independent of their wiring in case of electrical or other problems I don't understand. I can also adjust the temp it comes on if I want or need to.

Q1: Is there a switched ac wire or fuse location I could use to be fully independent of their system?

Q2: As long as ac is on and fan comes on with it, it's the desired effect or do I not understand something more about computer system here?

That seems like it would be the best case since I've done the extra work to make it possible to bypass their entire "network", making it mechanical fail only?

I don't have a test light right now either of course...

Thanks,
Rws
 

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can't say for sure, but MB may have some sort of feedback if it doesn't detect the fan starting up (don't know for sure) If the cooling starts too soon, the car could try to compensate by enrichning the mixture affecting mpg and driveability. I'd leave the on-off control up to the computer (but that's just me) If it works, go for it!
 

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Q1: Is there a switched ac wire or fuse location I could use to be fully independent of their system?

Q2: As long as ac is on and fan comes on with it, it's the desired effect or do I not understand something more about computer system here?

That seems like it would be the best case since I've done the extra work to make it possible to bypass their entire "network", making it mechanical fail only?

I don't have a test light right now either of course...

Thanks,
Rws
The problem with the auxiliary fan instructions is they do not apply to modern vehicles. If you by-pass the on-board systems you need some sort of control logic that allows the fan to be actuated by the engine temperature or by the a/c system but not allow a back-feed from one to the other. In other words, you do not want the a/c compressor coming on every time the engine temperature rises to the fan cut-in point.

My opinion is that it is far simpler and more reliable to leave the current system in place and connect your replacement fan to the original fan wires without all the extra wiring and extra fan controller. By creating your own system outside of the factory system you are compromising reliability and creating a nightmare for the next person that owns or has to work on the vehicle. This is aside from the fact that there is no easy way to accomplish what I understand you wish to do. As I said, the a/c compressor and the fan are wired directly from the SAM because the relays for each are internal to the SAM.
 

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Doesn't sound like he's suggesting this as a permanent fix. Like he said in the earlier post, all of his tools are in a moving van/ pod/ whatever and he's trying to get himself and the smart to where ever it is his stuff is headed where he will have access the tools he'll need to dig further, get to the stock wiring harness, properly mount the fan, etc. It's August, so maybe he'd be running the a/c the whole trip anyway. It sounds like he's trying to bypass as much of the system as he can so he won't fry something important until he can hook it up correctly.
 

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noise with AC on

Hi there, I am wondering if it is my cooling fan, when I turn on my AC something makes noise kind of like a grinding noise and when I turn of the AC it stops. From your post do you think it is the cooling fan?
 

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sounds like you are on the right track. I ended up using a bore scope type camera to inspect the fan mount and found it was cracked, causing the noise when the AC turned on.
 

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thank you so much jimvw57, I will take a look tomorrow during the day and see if I can see something somewhere and will let you know what I find what creates this noise. When yours was cracked what did you do to fix it? Thank you again, greatly appreciate any help I can get. Andrea
 

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it . Is really hard to see behind the radiator. I tried from underneath and it is still tough. MB says to replace the mount, the whole front of the car needs to come off, e ven the front header, AC evaporator, and radiator. That means recharging the AC And new coolant, tons of wire. Etc. Looks like a major overhaul just for a stinkin mount (the whole front header needs to be replaced) That us why I did the alternate repair and mounted an aftermarket one in front of the condenser.

Took a little fabrication for mounting bit I did it all sitting in the driveway (neighbors) using standard hand tools.. Here is the link to what I did


http://www.smartcarofamerica.com/forums/f25/noise-front-end-ac-43949/


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