Good for you!! welcome to the club.. or something... been using mine daily since I installed it, still working great!!
I would go with Ultragauge. The ultragauge is much easier on the wallet and has more that twice the features than the scangauge. The rebate on their website can be tricky tho but they have my vote. They only thing I do not like about the ultragauge is that the wire going into the display can not be unplugged.BTW - '09 Passion within 450 miles of turning 100 K on the odometer... Oh. Next purchase > Scan Gauge. Thanx again.
Dear WifessmartALMOSTrepaired already,@Rustedwrench (or jacka$$ as the case may be)
Maybe wrong term but fan has a ac switch wire that says goes to ac clutch wire in the instructions for the fan controller. Also the job is done and working fine aside from not coming on with AC so be helpful or f*** off, k, thx.
My original response was not meant to belittle you and I am sorry you took it that way. From my viewpoint you showed up not having posted before and were asking a question that did not make sense. You did not state what year and model smart you were working on nor what the original problem was. I thought Jim's post clearly outlined what was necessary to replace the fan with an aftermarket unit. Remove 2 wires from original fan and connect to replacement fan. Done. I did not have time to post a more detailed response and in hindsight perhaps should have waited until I could. By the same token your response to me was overwrought. Frustration will do that.If you are a great guy I don't understand your posts to belittle me. Simple as that.
I can't get a wiring diagram even from alldatadiy that makes sense of what I need to have ac cut new fan on. I'm trying not to have to push 1 more wire back through firewall to ac fuse.
The problem with the auxiliary fan instructions is they do not apply to modern vehicles. If you by-pass the on-board systems you need some sort of control logic that allows the fan to be actuated by the engine temperature or by the a/c system but not allow a back-feed from one to the other. In other words, you do not want the a/c compressor coming on every time the engine temperature rises to the fan cut-in point.Q1: Is there a switched ac wire or fuse location I could use to be fully independent of their system?
Q2: As long as ac is on and fan comes on with it, it's the desired effect or do I not understand something more about computer system here?
That seems like it would be the best case since I've done the extra work to make it possible to bypass their entire "network", making it mechanical fail only?
I don't have a test light right now either of course...