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Unfortunately I didn't take step-by-step pictures while I was tearing it apart. I do have some pics once everything was apart:

Something's missing:


Closer view:


Lots of parts:


The red cups in the last pic are how I keep track of fasteners. I print out a guide for what I'm taking apart (in this case from Evilution) and then number or letter each step on paper that has fasteners and mark a cup for each step. Just wanted to avoid any confusion about why I would need 20+ cups while working on my smart.

You can also see the Blue Ox base plate laying next to the crash bar in the last pic. It sits behind the crash bar and takes up a couple inches of the space between the crash bar and A/C condenser.

I'm missing pics of the radiator, condenser and the huge plastic frame that almost everything on the front of the car mounts to. I can try to add those in later.
 

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How you got all the bits and pieces back together is amazing.

What was your time to do the removal and install?

And would you do it again?
 

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Daves09,

The video is exactly what has happen to my Wife's car. I am trying to decide if I do this myself, to the hack or just drive it to the stealership and get it fixed. I am a little unhappy that this has happened with only 63k and 3.5 years on the car and that they did not think about issue of replacement during the design. These are not high-end pricey cars, so I would expect a little more thought for shade tree mechanics. I will will sending a PM for the instructions just so that I can decide what to do. It is a secondary car right now so I am not in a huge rush.

Thanks

Chapindad
 

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Daves09 shows what is needed to replace the factory fan, you will still need to refill the coolant, and the A/C which should be done by a qualified technician (the A/C part)

My 'hack' bypasses all that and even leaves the old fan in place (won't hurt anything) You will need to remove the front end, (about a dozen bolts) and make up a mount for the fan (not difficult) had mine done in about 2 hours and it was back on the road. cost was about $70-80 for the fan and a set of clips for the rocker covers.
When it is done, you won't even notice the change from the looks of it outside, and it is covered up from under the hood.
 

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update to my post - hope I'm doing it right.
A year & a half gone by, still working great! You can go on You-tube & find a step by step to remove the front clip. It's easy, about 45 minutes the first time.... Bad side of all this was about 6 months ago (just as I was retiring!) the AC condenser got a hole & had to be redone. Well beyond my tolerance level so that was $885!!
 

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Following up with a few more pics taken during reassembly plus answers to a couple of questions.

@stevenjb: I did the work on two consecutive Saturdays with time to order parts in-between. Disassembly and diagnosis the first Saturday took me about 4 hours but I take my time compared to most people. I enjoy working with my hands, like to figure stuff out and wasn't in a hurry. I've had the front bodywork off more times than I can count so that part took me about 15 minutes (with only one broken rocker clip!!). Reassembly was probably closer to 5 hours as I took time to clean everything up, replace the front sway bar bushings and hit all the suspension points with spray lube, etc. I would do it again but my situation is a little different than most smart owners because of the baseplate I have installed (used to tow our smartie behind our motor home). I installed the baseplate myself originally and I'm not sure I would trust a dealer or other mechanic to reinstall it with everything torqued correctly using proper thread locker (loose or missing bolts = bad things).

@chapindad: Cost for the factory fan is not bad compared to an aftermarket fan ($120 for the assembly from Open Road) but the time and complexity involved is much higher than @jimvw57's approach. All totaled I ended up at just over $200 for the repair but I was fortunate to find an A/C shop right around the corner to evacuate and recharge the system for a very reasonable cost. I didn't think I had room for an aftermarket fan in front of the radiator because of the baseplate so I opted to go the OEM route. I'm hoping I get at least 70K miles out of the replacement fan - it would be pretty sad if it failed earlier than the original.

I've included some pictures below taken during reassembly that show the baseplate and how close it is to the radiator that I'm hoping jimvw57 will comment on.

The radiator with new fan assembly attached back in place and the A/C condenser nearby:


The condenser now in place:


The plastic frame that almost everything mounts to:


Front plastic frame now installed:


The Blue Ox BX1987 baseplate back in place (most of it hides behind the crash bar once its installed):


With the baseplate installed there is about 2-1/2 inches of room in front of the radiator. Is that enough room for a pusher fan jimvw57?


Crash bar plus left side back together. This is how I drove it down to the A/C shop since it is a lot easier to get to the A/C fittings with the right headlight and (upgraded) horn removed - I did get a few looks on the way:


By far the most time-consuming step was bleeding the cooling system. Most instructions show pulling the bypass hose loose from the fitting at the left side of the cylinder head but my big paws could not get in there to remove the clamp or loosen the hose. I ended up pulling the hose off on the opposite end where it attaches to the metal tube that runs back to the water pump. I was certain I had the system bled but my first run-up with an OBD scanner attached showed the coolant temperature rising to over 210 degrees and didn't drop when the [new] cooling fan kicked in. I bled the system again and everything worked as expected.

Hopefully this info helps anyone faced with the same (all too common) failure.
 

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I can't say for sure how thick the fan is/was, and since I don't have the car anymore, it would be hard to measure it. I know it said it was a low profile fan so it may have been OK , not sure (sorry)

Per hayden's website, the 14" fan is 3 5/8 thick so it wouldn't fit. Might be possible to use a smaller pair on it's place...
 

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I did this myself as well and I must say it's pretty easy, not simple but easy and perfectly doable with no special tools, the only tool I had to buy was a 4 pcs. set of star sockets to remove the front subframe. Before I started I was scared but then getting into the job it was easy going. I followed a youtube video to remove the front panel (just the front body part, just skin) which is very important to don't brake plastic tabs and latches, but for the rest I went on my own just unscrewing bolts. A very important precaution I took it was disconnecting the battery to prevent any issues with the SRS sensors which are located on the metal bumper. Once I put everything back together everything was perfect, no warning lights at all.
The total cost was $258.00 I saved 500.
Original OEM genuine Fan made in Poland like the one I took off the car $200.00 free shipping on eBay. From Mercedes Benz dealership it would be 270+tax.
A/C recharge $58.00 (local shop, no chain, no Meineke, no Peps Boys, they would charge 120 or more)
I totally recommend doing this instead of adding an universal fan on the front of the radiator like somebody else did. This way you'll keep a stock worthy valuable and reliable car.
Good luck.
 

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Don't want to beat a dead horse, but shouldn't this be under some sort of recall. I know its not a safety problem, but a costly one. This same fan was making this noise on our Smart 2 years ago. It quit suddenly and now we have AC only moving down the road (as many have mentioned). Is anyone talking Class-Action lawsuit?
 

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Don't want to beat a dead horse, but shouldn't this be under some sort of recall. I know its not a safety problem, but a costly one.

Is anyone talking Class-Action lawsuit?
Way dead horse. Regardless of brand, recalls are few beyond true safety (airbags) issues.

Class-action, 8 years of "talk" with no "action" on the part of the few who have been impacted in a variety of different ways.
 

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Way dead horse. Regardless of brand, recalls are few beyond true safety (airbags) issues.

Class-action, 8 years of "talk" with no "action" on the part of the few who have been impacted in a variety of different ways.
Few still even buy these. Maybe we need to find Smart (M-B) has emission cheating software!
 

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The email bounced back. I'm just going to dump these files in my Dropbox public folder. Links below (10 files; scroll down in the code box).

Code:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2605696/AR20.00-P-1010MCU.pdf

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2605696/AR20.00-P-1142MCU.pdf

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2605696/AR20.20-P-3865MCU.pdf

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2605696/AR20.40-P-5000MCU.pdf

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2605696/AR62.30-P-1575MCU.pdf

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2605696/AR82.30-P-6100MCC.pdf

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2605696/AR83.30-P-1760MCC.pdf

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2605696/AR83.30-P-6525MCC.pdf

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2605696/AR83.30-P-6540MCU.pdf

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/2605696/AR88.00-P-2792MCC.pdf
 

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Change Radiator fan Tool?

Anybody know what a 451589013100 mount is? Supposed to need it to change radiator fan. :confused:

Thanks,
Catman_29
 
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