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The reason I switched to a front mounted 'pusher fan' was to avoid all the labor of removing ac and radiator. Never had any issues with my replacement and from the outside, (and from under the cover) you couldn't see any difference. Total parts cost was around $75 or so.

Not sure what the mount is
 

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Want to thank jimvw57. Bearing went out on fan and was wobbling making all kinds of noise. A call to Tampa MB and was quoted $176 for a fan and $713 for 4 hours of labor. Went your route and spent $68 for a fan from OReilly and $10 in parts from Ace Hardware to install. Glad I got to save all that money. Install was pretty easy. Again thanks for the info.
 

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Glad I could help!

I hit a deer last fall and had to change the front frame (everything bolts to it) and it is a lot of work. the fan is behind the frame and 4 hours seems a bit on the short side for replacing it. adding the fan to the front is much easier (and cheaper)
 

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Here are the instructions:

1) remove front clip
2) fabricate mounts and install the fan
3) attach wires from old fan (make sure it blows the right direction)
4)install front clip

There are lots of videos showing how to remove the front clip. Once it is off, it is fairly easy to conjure up a mount and bolt the fan in place.




 

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I can see why the dealer wants $500 for the job. Not only does the coolant have to be drained, so does the A/C system. I have all the steps in PDF form. If you're interested, PM me your email address and I'll send them along.
Dear Garciacesar,
I own 2008 Smart Fortwo. My AC went out and it happens to be my condenser that is leaking. If your PDF instruction works for my vehicle, could you kindly send it me to [email protected]? Thanks.

v/r

JJ
 

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I just switched my 2009 over to the pusher . style fan after the OE fan started making noise when the AC was on. Went pretty well, I just had to get, we'll say, creative with mounting the fan. First off i used a 14 inch diameter by 3n5/8 deep fan. It fit perfectly and filled the given space nicely with plenty of room between the fan and bumper bar. I cushoned the fan where it would contact the condenser with weather stripping to keep it from rubbing directly on it, and jabbed some in the crack between that this created too to mitigate the air leaking before passing through the condenser/radiator. I used 2 self tapping screws through the plastic front clip/radiator support to secure the bottom 2 mounts of the fan. I used the push through cable ties supplied with the fan kit to attach the top two mounts. I didn't want to have to use them, but with time running short and very little in my supply closet, I used them. Just be very careful to not poke any of the veins of the radiator or condenser when you jab them through. I attached 2 spade connectors to the new fan wires and plugged them into the OE plug and taped the sh!t out of it. Make sure you get the polarity right so the fan pushes instead of pulls! I'm not saying its the "right" way to fix the issue, but it's much cheaper and easier than the alternative... AC blows cold and I'm not overheating in the dog days of summer in north Florida. If you try this, good luck!
 

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Again,

1) remove front clip
2) fabricate mounts and install the fan
3) attach wires from old fan (make sure it blows the right direction)
4)install front clip

See post #86 above.

for some reason people are making this out as much harder than it is. Easy modification and much less cost than going with the factory unit repair.
 

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Thanks
Did it, very easy and works wonders.
But right after installing I am encountering a huge problem, most of the time the compressor turns on and off every three seconds, I was scared that while installing I managed to make a leak, so I checked the pressure and it's OK.
I forgot to state that the air that's blowing isn't cold nor warm.
Please advise!
 

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If the compressor is cycling, it most likely is low on refrigerant charge. That will also make for a lukewarm cooling air in the car. It is normal for the system to lose a bit of juice over the winter months as the compressor won't run if the air temp is below a certain temp, and the seals in the compressor will leak a bit from lack of use.
 

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Thanks for your reply.
I went ahead and bought an AC Pro recharger with a built-in pressure dial, and the dial was at the higher end of the green area, so if I try to charge it more then it will enter into the red-warning area.
Any advice?
 

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If the compressor is going on and off. you won't get a true reading as when the compressor is off, the high and low sides tend to even out and get the same reading on both sides (which you won't see with a single gauge) Add a bit and see what happens.

no guarantee that the gauge hat comes with those things are too accurate...
 

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2 ways to do this. 1) remove old fan and replace it with a new one, or 2) add an external fan in front of the condenser and push air through the condenser/radiator.

Is the best option to remove the old one AND place a “pusher” fan in the front of the radiator? (I’m assuming the old fan remaining in place hinders airflow some)....
 

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Not really necessary, I didn't have any issues with mine. I think if it was just air flow from the win it would affect it, but not if it is a powered fan. It isn't easy to get behind everything to get to the stock fan. which is why I did the aux fan in the front. I monitored temps over the next 2 years and never saw a problem.
 

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This post is truly great. I just did the same with a 14” fan, however I drilled the fender to bolt the motor and the grill to it. I also had to rotate the fan as it was originally a puller. I found my original fan’s housing also broken. However I wasn’t getting any power from the fan cables on top of the broken fan, so I performed a continuity test on them and got correct readings. I disassembled the SAM, but that was worthless as I can’t replace any of the relays. So I have opted to connect the power out to one of the Switch On power connectors from the SAM, with a 20 AMP fuse between them. That means the fan will be always on when the car is on. However I drive it 20 minutes per day and the average weather where I live is mostly between 80 and 110 F. So I might only improve the Carnot Cycle in my engine. My Scangauge was starting to show readings near 210F on the coolant, so this was really a must.
 

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I drinking the cool-air-aid. I was able the source the same fan except under the imperial brand from Advance auto. Made some brackets using and old metal files drawer dividers doubled up. and a sheet metal screw in the bracket as the tab to hold the fan in place. Then used self tapping metal screws to hold it in. There seems to be an alum. bar under the plastic on the top and the plastic on the bottom proved a good grip for the screws.

I was about to use spade connectors to the original fans pigtails, but decided to cut it off and solder the leads together. If I have to bring the car to Smart and have them do the "official & correct" repair having the reconnect the original pigtail should not cost that much more.

I purchased the Autool X50 PLUS Multi-Function Car OBD Smart Digital Meter & Alarm from amazon and watched the temp. So far so good and the fan comes on with the AC as it should.

My one main concern. The original fan was still semi functional but was making noise. so even though it's not under power when the new fan pushed air past it it's still going to spin, and would not that spinning cause any rubbing and rad damage?

In my limited testing i do not hear it moving so we'll see. The repair is a sound mod and and the wires of the original fan and the after-market are the same gauge so i do not feel the new fan will overload the cars electrical system.
 

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