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Anyone have suggestions on fabricating brackets? Only part I’m kind of shaky on at this point about the work around
 

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What to buy, how to modify, etc. etc. I feel like what most people get overwhelmed with is the “just fabricate brackets” part which is not probably hard. But someone said they bought some from Ace, Jim said he used rain gutter parts. Then there was that one thing about hangers? Anywho, some more direction on this part would be appreciated.
 

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Video to remove front clip, check. Reverse fan direction included in fan instructions. Check. Fabricate mounts.... ???
 

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I completed this mod yesterday. I purchased a 12” fan from Autozone. It came with some clips, as well as zip tie mounts. Ended up drilling 4 holes and mounted the fan centered on the radiator.
IMG_4229.JPG IMG_4228.JPG


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I'm about to attempt this front pusher fan fix this weekend. It all seems fairly straightforward, but I do have a question about the existing fan wires - I know you need to drop the belly pan front to access the wires, but is there a clear way to tell which wires are the ones going to the fan? I just worry about reaching in and pulling the wrong wires and causing another issue. Thanks for everybody's help so far - I was dreading the repair bill when I first heard the AC fan banging!
 

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Once you pull the front end, you’ll be able to find the wires. You can also see/feel them from below once you drop the pan but it was easier for me to locate them from above. I wasted probably 20 mins trying to unplug the connector , then realized a paint can opener from Home Depot has enough curve (and small enough to keep in my hand) to not only “grab” the tab on the connector but also pull it up so I could Unplug it from the OEM fan.


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Success!! Tim, thanks for the insight on how to get the old fan unplugged. The fan I bought had wires with ends I could crimp and plug right into the existing connector no problem. I used your zip tie method as well.

Jimvw, I can't thank you enough for coming up with this DIY fix. Not only did it save me a boatload of cash, I feel like I have a much better understanding of my smart's inner workings now. I really appreciate the help!
 

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Need Help On A/C Condenser Fan

2013 Smart Condenser Fan Quits On A/C Only Works Correct On Engine, No Over Heating, Freon Full, Can Turn Condenser Fan On With Scanner, A/C Pressure Switch Shows 5V And Line Pressure (250--450) On Scanner When It Gets to 450 And fan Not Running Compressor Kicks Off. Guessing Bad Pressure Switch Or Condenser Fan Relay? I Think The relay Is Part Of Sam Unit Thanks For Any Help Dave
 

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Success!! Tim, thanks for the insight on how to get the old fan unplugged. The fan I bought had wires with ends I could crimp and plug right into the existing connector no problem. I used your zip tie method as well.

Jimvw, I can't thank you enough for coming up with this DIY fix. Not only did it save me a boatload of cash, I feel like I have a much better understanding of my smart's inner workings now. I really appreciate the help!
I would love to know how long and what you had to do in this a job.
 

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I would love to know how long and what you had to do in this a job.
I'd estimate it probably took me around 2 to 3 hours start to finish, since you have to drop the entire front body panel and that's a bit of a pain. Evilution (Evilution - Smart Car Encyclopaedia) has a really comprehensive guide on how to remove the front panel, though you have to pay the $3 ish membership fee to access the guide, but it is definitely worth it.

Once the panel is off, it was a matter of lowering the front of the belly pan (two bolts, if I remember correctly) and feeling around underneath the car for the existing fan wires. Once you've found them, you can unplug the old fan and pull the wires to the front of the car - they are plenty long enough. I got the new fan for about $50 on Amazon, it came with instructions on how to convert the fan to push/pull and then I added standard connectors (bought at AutoZone for like $5) to the end of the wires and it plugged right in to the existing connector on the car. I secured the fan with all-temperature zipties after drilling a couple holes into the plastic frame in front of the radiator to mount them, and then put it all back together.

All said it's not the easiest job, but it also was very doable once you get the body panel off. And definitely worth it to avoid however many hundred dollars Mercedes will charge you.
 

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I'd estimate it probably took me around 2 to 3 hours start to finish, since you have to drop the entire front body panel and that's a bit of a pain. Evilution (Evilution - Smart Car Encyclopaedia) has a really comprehensive guide on how to remove the front panel, though you have to pay the $3 ish membership fee to access the guide, but it is definitely worth it.

Once the panel is off, it was a matter of lowering the front of the belly pan (two bolts, if I remember correctly) and feeling around underneath the car for the existing fan wires. Once you've found them, you can unplug the old fan and pull the wires to the front of the car - they are plenty long enough. I got the new fan for about $50 on Amazon, it came with instructions on how to convert the fan to push/pull and then I added standard connectors (bought at AutoZone for like $5) to the end of the wires and it plugged right in to the existing connector on the car. I secured the fan with all-temperature zipties after drilling a couple holes into the plastic frame in front of the radiator to mount them, and then put it all back together.

All said it's not the easiest job, but it also was very doable once you get the body panel off. And definitely worth it to avoid however many hundred dollars Mercedes will charge you.
Thank you so much!!!! I am so relieved. I was thinking car rental and cost of a repair, so I was freaking out a little?
 

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My case is different. The fan works when jumped. Relays were changed and I did read the thread about the guy who cleaned his SAM thoroughly, unplugged, cleaned with contact clearner and it started to work. Mine is also the SAM I believe, but I will look at it as an issue for the fan later in the year. I also think this was related to when I left the drivers-side window down once and the inside got soaked. It is said SAMs are very sensitive to moisture and prone to have something to fail when wet.

Meanwhile, I wired up a 14" in front of the condenser and have a temperature sensor below the cooling tank (tested fine with a multimeter running the engine) between hoses on the bottom of the tank with a ground wire going to ground since the sensor connector has hoses on both sides. Its not done yet due to the cold temperature and I have no garage (I have 2 Smarts along with another car - and 2 motorcycles for warmer weather) but it will also have an on off switch (simple ground to the the temp sensor wire that I will turn on with the AC until I wire it differently for AC too) This was done with a fan wiring kit I bought. The kit has a circuit breaker and a relay. I could not use the sensor though because I bought a hose-to-hose aluminum temperature sensor holder and had to buy 1/4' sensor fitting.
This has been broken for months. The heater fan will cool down the Smart so in bumper to bumper traffic as an emergency I turned on the heater and it did not overheat. The temperature light actually has turned on and the heater blower turned it off almost immediately. This obviously is a terrible situation in summer.

I decided to fix this after I got a fender-bender in the left front. Took the front off and fixed the dent with boiling water on the inside of a trick I read on the Internet with plastic parts (the plastic was not shattered or cracked) and pushed the dent out. Can't tell it was hit. I also had to replace the radiator but the condenser was good and the left crush-member was replaced. The plastic intake ducting was also replaced though not necessary but I elected not to fix the damage to the duct (all done by myself with new and used eBay parts). The whole front frame was replaced. Left head lamp housing was replaced. Headlamp prices vary I found one new (not eBay) for 129 The windshield cleaner tank had a dent in the front. Took it off and ran under my kitchen hot-tap (this is electric heated hot water for coffee, etc) Put a lever inside and the dent popped out. All this was amazingly easy and new parts fit on like a jigsaw puzzle.

Phil
 

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Hello, I am planning to attempt the fan mod/hack with a 12" fan. I'm looking at the recent pictures provided by Ervie7 and tim_arkansas using zip ties to secure the fan, but am still confused as to how this was achieved. all the videos ive seen regarding fan installation has the zip ties being pushed through and secured from behind the radiator, but it seems like the back of the radiator cannot be reached in this case. are you guys just looping the zip ties around the surrounding support, not pushing them through the radiator?
 
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