The preceeding from jwight57 made good sense, so I tried it. I removed the bolts from all the motor mounts...upper and lower both, but I'm not sure all of them would have been necessary. I did have to remove the Xframe and pry the rubber muffler hangers off before lowering. Getting the motor to arrive in the same position upon raising, relative to the motor mounts, was a problem,using just the jack and a block of wood . Previously when I had removed motors, I had fabricated a fixture to bolt the motor to my trolley jack at it's center of gravity for lowering and raising it.After blocking the motor up and bolting that on, everything fell into place. After completing the job and looking things over before putting the shields and wheel back on, I'm not to sure but what the job could be done without lowering the motor at all if the crankshaft pulley was removed for access to several of the pump bolts. By the way, the pump housing does have a molded, reusable, neoprene gasket. (sort of O-ring type) It had been installed originally with silicone grease, so I cleaned it, re-greased it and used it again. Maybe not the best practice, but it didn't leak. A new pump pobably comes with a new gasket, but I was replacing with a good used pump from my spare stash. (Some guy on ebay wants $28 for that little gasket)
A related note....When I removed the spring-loaded Idler pulley, there was only a tiny bit of spring movement. I clamped it in a vise and excersized it a little and found that it had apparently set in one spot for so long that rust or crud had pretty well locked it in place. After I broke it loose, it worked like it should have. Could be a cause for a low functioning pump or alternator, especially on some of our older smarts!
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