[strelnik]

Hello smart enthusiasts!
I have learned to write my posts on MS Word and copy them because they seem to be eaten instead of created. This pisses me off because I bought the subscription to SCOA which also does not seem to be acknowledged.

I request help from fellow 451 owners or knowledgeable people.


Here’s the car: 2009 451 with 176,000 miles, history unknown.


I’m writing brief questions because I’m tired of submitting posts that disappear.


Current condition: The car starts and runs smoothly after minimal maintenance, like good gas, etc. Turn signal stalk present but broken. Remote with new battery works most of the time.


#1 PROBLEM: The car will shift into D or R no problem, but only bucks a little, won’t move. Shift into N and you can push the car no problem. Both ABS and TPMS lights are lit on console, no other trouble indicators. CAN ABS or TPMS FAULT BE LOCKING UP BRAKES?

Other problems:


OBDII codes are P050A, P0301A and P0303A. The latter two are misfires, which may be fixed by new plugs and wires. Don’t know about P050A. May also need sensors


Other question:
Can I get a complete history of this car at a smart dealer? A print out, like at an MB dealer? Does it cost?

I'm also looking for parts sources which are not a dealer.



This so ironic. I used to work for Andreas Renschler, who was the first CEO of smart when it was just a new subsidiary of Daimler Chrysler, before he went to VWAG. That was 1998-9.


Thank you in advance for your help. Moderators, please update my account regarding the subscription soonest. Thank you.

 

[jimvw57]

Hello
Not sure why your posts re being 'eaten' everything seems Ok in your profile.

TPMS light will only indicate a low (or high) tire pressure, or a problem with the monitoring system.

ABS indicates a problem with the anti lock brakes. If it is on all the time, it could be as simple as a blown fuse, or missing fuse, or as complicated as a brake control computer problem.

The Misfire codes, if you are not running on 2 cylinders, you won't have much power, maybe not enough to get the car moving.If the computer detects a low power from a cylinder, it shuts it off. losing 2/3 of the motor is pretty bad.

Usually a tcs light will affect the power to one or more wheels. It is possible you have an error code from the transmission that won't show up on a generic scanner and may need to be read by a STARR computer.

 

[sokoloff]

Vehicle history is called the VMI - Vehicle Maintenance Inquiry. It details any service done under warranty and at a dealer. It used to be routine for dealers to give a copy if requested. A few years ago, it turned into a dealer proprietary item unless you had a friend at the dealer, sweet talked someone or brought in a dozen donuts or a six pack. I was able to get one on both of my Smarts when I bought the cars. They are free if you can get one and the VIN is needed to pull them up.

Len
2014 EV Coupe 18,000 miles
2014 EV Cabriolet 12,000 miles

 

[strelnik]

Hello
Not sure why your posts re being 'eaten' everything seems Ok in your profile.

TPMS light will only indicate a low (or high) tire pressure, or a problem with the monitoring system.

ABS indicates a problem with the anti lock brakes. If it is on all the time, it could be as simple as a blown fuse, or missing fuse, or as complicated as a brake control computer problem.

The Misfire codes, if you are not running on 2 cylinders, you won't have much power, maybe not enough to get the car moving.If the computer detects a low power from a cylinder, it shuts it off. losing 2/3 of the motor is pretty bad.

Usually a tcs light will affect the power to one or more wheels. It is possible you have an error code from the transmission that won't show up on a generic scanner and may need to be read by a STARR computer.

Thanks for the info.


With the OBDII on but the engine not running, I get the misfire codes for cylinders #1 and #3 misfiring, but all three cylinders run smoothly, plus after a little bit of running, even idle is smooth. So I do have power. Last night and this morning, recharged a VARTA battery which came with the car. Charged well, and passed a carbon pile stress test, so will be recharged and installed Wednesday.


I have a pretty good scanner but don't know what a STARR scanner is.
Who makes it?


I saw no proprietary codes for the smart listed related to ABS.


Thanks for your help.
BTW what is a tcs light?

 

[jimvw57]

TCS is the triangle with the ! in the center (Traction Control system) A STARR computer is the system Mercedes uses to program the multiple computers and options on your car. It is linked to the mainframe in Germany where everything is stored at Mercedes.

Your car has the coils mounted on the end of the spark plugs so there are no wires, just the COP (coil over plugs) for each cylinder.

The smart OBDII codes are listed on the Evilution website which is the encyclopedia of everything smart including the European models we don't get in the USA. it is a pay site (you pay to subscribe) but it has tons of information and pictures for everything!

https://www.evilution.co.uk/index.php

and parts can be ordered here
https://www.mbpartsexpress.com/

 

[strelnik]

TCS is the triangle with the ! in the center (Traction Control system) A STARR computer is the system Mercedes uses to program the multiple computers and options on your car. It is linked to the mainframe in Germany where everything is stored at Mercedes.

Your car has the coils mounted on the end of the spark plugs so there are no wires, just the COP (coil over plugs) for each cylinder.

The smart OBDII codes are listed on the Evilution website which is the encyclopedia of everything smart including the European models we don't get in the USA. it is a pay site (you pay to subscribe) but it has tons of information and pictures for everything!

https://www.evilution.co.uk/index.php

and parts can be ordered here
https://www.mbpartsexpress.com/

Thanks, am I correct to assume that only the dealers have STAR computers?

 

[Mailman]

TPMS light on console:


If it had the original battery, it might have the original TPMS sensors (with 10 year old batteries)...
A tire store can check if they are transmitting - 433mhz IIRC on 451s
Unfortunately, the tires have to be removed to put new ones in.

 

[jimvw57]

Thanks, am I correct to assume that only the dealers have STAR computers?

As I mentioned., there are some clones around and they do work sometimes, Some shops that specialize in MB may have them and can connect for less than a dealership will charge.

 

[strelnik]

As I mentioned., there are some clones around and they do work sometimes, Some shops that specialize in MB may have them and can connect for less than a dealership will charge.

What if I didn't want the TPMS? Just ignore it?

 

[jimvw57]

most shops won't turn it off as it is considered a "safety issue" but a piece of black tape can cover it nicely 'so I've been told' I would never deactivate a safety device.... It won't affect your car

The wife's light has been on for over a year on her Trailblazer, Waiting for tires to wear out before changing sensors. She needs to drive more!

 

[DreamCarOwner]

It is possible that your TPMS just needs a reset. Air your back tires up to 34 lbs and the front ones to 29. Then go turn the ignition switch to the on position. Then push in the TPMS button for about 10 seconds or so. It will flash and when you let off the button it will reset. Now drive the car around the block a couple of times and see if the light comes back on. If it does there's a good chance that one or more of your tire sensor batteries are dead. Tire sensors only transmit when the tire is in motion. They have an inertia switch inside. The TMPS will warn you if a tire pressure increases or decreases about 4 to 5 pounds over or under the amount of air that you just put in at your reset. It only reads pressure variance not actual lbs. Once it is reset and it stays off for a long time you can air up the faulty tire that is low and the light will go out on it's own because you aired back up to your "reset set" pressure.
As far as your P050A shows on my Smart code list as Cold Start Idle Air Control System Performance. It's a generic code for all models. But my list has been wrong before. DCO

 

[strelnik]

It is possible that your TPMS just needs a reset. Air your back tires up to 34 lbs and the front ones to 29. Then go turn the ignition switch to the on position. Then push in the TPMS button for about 10 seconds or so. It will flash and when you let off the button it will reset. Now drive the car around the block a couple of times and see if the light comes back on. If it does there's a good chance that one or more of your tire sensor batteries are dead. Tire sensors only transmit when the tire is in motion. They have an inertia switch inside. The TMPS will warn you if a tire pressure increases or decreases about 4 to 5 pounds over or under the amount of air that you just put in at your reset. It only reads pressure variance not actual lbs. Once it is reset and it stays off for a long time you can air up the faulty tire that is low and the light will go out on it's own because you aired back up to your "reset set" pressure.
As far as your P050A shows on my Smart code list as Cold Start Idle Air Control System Performance. It's a generic code for all models. But my list has been wrong before. DCO

Thanks for your help! I will do work on thye TPMS after I find a way to get the transmission to engage and move the car. Then I have to figure nout how to troubleshoot the cold start Idle Air Control System Performance unit.

If anyone has a non Star scanner that has/can do the diagnosis/reset for my vehicle, please let me know. It will cost me to ship the car to a smart service station in Indiana since there appear to be none in Michigan.

Thanks to everyone for the help so far. I tow the car to my house Friday, and the in-depth work starts. That's why I'm looking for some way to get the transmission to engage. Then the exhaust holes are repaired.

I'd like to find info to identify and test all sensors, as well. THANKS!

 

[Miss Mercedes]

So first thing I'd do is clear the codes and see what comes back. It does take some engine cycles for codes to go away on their own. Any old scanner should be able to clear the codes. Do it with ignition on and engine off.

If you can push the car in Neutral, I would assume your brakes are not locked up. The ABS and ESP fault may be reluctor rings. Car is high mileage, lives in Michigan, and ten years old, good chance at least one of them is just a pile of rust.

If you see D or R when you put it in gear, but all the car does is buck, it may be worth it to remove the clutch actuator and give it a good cleaning and lubing.

 

[ohabbal]

It is possible that your TPMS just needs a reset. Air your back tires up to 34 lbs and the front ones to 29. Then go turn the ignition switch to the on position. Then push in the TPMS button for about 10 seconds or so. It will flash and when you let off the button it will reset. Now drive the car around the block a couple of times and see if the light comes back on. If it does there's a good chance that one or more of your tire sensor batteries are dead. Tire sensors only transmit when the tire is in motion. They have an inertia switch inside. The TMPS will warn you if a tire pressure increases or decreases about 4 to 5 pounds over or under the amount of air that you just put in at your reset. It only reads pressure variance not actual lbs. Once it is reset and it stays off for a long time you can air up the faulty tire that is low and the light will go out on it's own because you aired back up to your "reset set" pressure.
As far as your P050A shows on my Smart code list as Cold Start Idle Air Control System Performance. It's a generic code for all models. But my list has been wrong before. DCO

Thanks for your help! I will do work on thye TPMS after I find a way to get the transmission to engage and move the car. Then I have to figure nout how to troubleshoot the cold start Idle Air Control System Performance unit.

If anyone has a non Star scanner that has/can do the diagnosis/reset for my vehicle, please let me know. It will cost me to ship the car to a smart service station in Indiana since there appear to be none in Michigan.

Thanks to everyone for the help so far. I tow the car to my house Friday, and the in-depth work starts. That's why I'm looking for some way to get the transmission to engage. Then the exhaust holes are repaired.

I'd like to find info to identify and test all sensors, as well. THANKS!

I'm from Michigan as well, we have a smart center in Ann arbor. It's the same Mercedes dealer but they also handle smart car servicing. Did you check if your brakes have locked up? Has the car been sitting for a long time?. If the car is showing the selected gear on the screen but doesn't move then either the clutch is worn completely or some other thing is wrong.
I use the icarsoft scanner, I bought it of amazing for $100 or so. It works well and is able to detect all of the modules in our smart cars.
The TPMS could be any number of things, however it's not critical, I suggest you fix the transmission and abs before attempting to fix it.

 

[strelnik]

So first thing I'd do is clear the codes and see what comes back. It does take some engine cycles for codes to go away on their own. Any old scanner should be able to clear the codes. Do it with ignition on and engine off.

If you can push the car in Neutral, I would assume your brakes are not locked up. The ABS and ESP fault may be reluctor rings. Car is high mileage, lives in Michigan, and ten years old, good chance at least one of them is just a pile of rust.

If you see D or R when you put it in gear, but all the car does is buck, it may be worth it to remove the clutch actuator and give it a good cleaning and lubing.

I saw what you're saying. My big problem with this car is that I have no manual and need to get the codes cleared. None cleared when I used the iCarsoft890 so I'm sending it back.


Getting a repair manual and parts manual for this car is what I really need and am willing to pay for them.


Thanks for any and all suggestions

 

[strelnik]

Thanks for the advice. How do I locate the reluctor rings? What's a good parts source?