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Discussion Starter #1
2011 with 89,000 miles idles rough and has all misfire codes P0300-P0303 stored, although the CEL isn't on. Will check/change the spark plugs first off. Then the valve adjustment. Anything else to check?
 

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could be damaged hose or maybe a leaking intake gasket?? Without doing a leakdown test, we can only guess at the cause of the problem. Burnt valve has come up before.
 

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Is it missing at idle or just it just shimmy and shake a little at idle cause these little 3 bangers aren’t balanced very well. Do you have a steady beat coming from the tailpipe at idle? Do you hear a clunk we you go from reverse to drive it may be a worn out engine mount
 

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Is it missing at idle or just it just shimmy and shake a little at idle cause these little 3 bangers aren’t balanced very well. Do you have a steady beat coming from the tailpipe at idle? Do you hear a clunk we you go from reverse to drive it may be a worn out engine mount
Yeah . I agree .
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yesterday the missing got worse. Went for a drive and 2 miles out the the CEL was flashing and the car had no power. Barely made it back. Did some checking today and found none of the coils had a mounting bolt. They were just sitting there loose in the hole. Found some bolts to secure them down. Idle is still rough but at least it's driveable. Did see #2 coil wire harness was hacked. Will drive it a little and see if all or just #2 misfire codes come back now.
 

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Did you check out any of your coil packs? Pulled any codes. How about, a bad, or dirty fuel injector. Sounds, like your cars, now gone into its limp mode.
 

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Yup. Flashing CEL is the engine shutting down a cylinder or more. First thing first, I'd say check those plugs and coils.
 

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My Fortwo is a 2011 and I lived this nightmare with only 36,000 on the odometer. You can replace part after part trying to alleviate the problem, but the first and easiest tell all step is to pull the plugs and do a compression test. It can be several things that you can test your way through, but a compression test will be the tell all. I am of the opinion there was a batch of 2011's that had valve problems, some may disagree with that but I have read several times on this forum of a 2011 having burned valves. I'm sure it could be other years also but it seems some 2011's had problems and some didn't. Could be anything from a spark plug to a coil pack to a vacuum leak or even a crank sensor. You should get reading of around 150 to 160 per cylinder. At 90 pounds on a single cylinder you will notice a miss. In the 50 to 60 pound range on all the cylinders an engine most likely will not start. When you only have 3 cylinders and you start to lose one you notice it. In a V8 not so much. DCO
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Checked the valve adjustment. Intakes all in spec. Exhaust all too tight. One valve I couldn't even fit the thinnest gauge into it. Guess I have to pull the cam and change some tappets. At least the engine is as clean as new.

 

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Same rough idle, loose power, and sputtering with CEL

My 2008 Smart had a similar problem at around 97000 miles..rough idle, loose power, and sputtering with CEL light on(not flashing). Diagnosed as bad ignition coil on cylinder 1, so replaced that. Also replaced valve cover gaskets as well as spark plugs as there were lots of oil at the top of spark plugs. Those fixed the problem.
 

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If you machined the bucket shims they must be re-hardened again, as the hardened surface is thin and would be removed if machined or ground. An unhardened shim will soon wear and distort.


Recommend just buying new ones the correct thickness.
 
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