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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, all. My passenger door panel was keyed a couple weeks ago, into the plastic (crystal white). The body shop I've always used says too deep, would not be able to buff it out--it'd still show. $280 estimate for replacing it for me, and Louisville Smart ctr wants $240 if I buy the panel myself to install it myself (probably not including tax). So the body shop is a good deal, but I have $500 collision deductible and hate to spend the money. It is not noticeable when the car is clean, but run your finger over it a few times and it shows right up!

It seems to me like the scratch could be smoothed out and touched up with clearcoat. Anyone know anything about body work/would this be possible and cheaper?
 

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As I posted last week. I spoke at length with at least five euro paint manufacturers last week at Automechanica in Frankfurt about availability and matching of smart paint.

WITH THE EXCEPTION OF SILVER AND BLACK FOR THE TRIDION, NOT ONE MANUFACTURER SAID THEIR COLORS MATCHED.

The paint in embedded in the plastic. Mercedes themselves admitted that most of the paint problems resulted in the painting of the entire side or front rear panels.

sorry.
 

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Isn't the white the same color all the way through? I used the smart clearcoat on a pretty bad scratch on my door and after a little buffing you can't even tell where it was anymore. For $18 (the cost of the "kit" with tridiron paint and clearcoat) it's certainly worth a try. - sheureka
 

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Discussion Starter #4
As I posted last week. I spoke at length with at least five euro paint manufacturers last week at Automechanica in Frankfurt about availability and matching of smart paint.

WITH THE EXCEPTION OF SILVER AND BLACK FOR THE TRIDION, NOT ONE MANUFACTURER SAID THEIR COLORS MATCHED.

The paint in embedded in the plastic. Mercedes themselves admitted that most of the paint problems resulted in the painting of the entire side or front rear panels.

sorry.
Sorry, didn't see that post. If I already posted this question last week, I apologize. I get busy and forget who I've asked or told what! And the search engine on this board doesn't yield me squat (though I did check it, keywords=scratch, keyed, clearcoat, etc) I do better by finding a similar thread and scrolling to the bottom for the board's suggestions!

Anyway, I wasn't talking about filling in the white, just buffing it smooth and clearcoating it to keep dirt from setting up in it, because it is hardly noticeable if it's perfectly clean. Let me know if you have further info. Thx!

Isn't the white the same color all the way through? I used the smart clearcoat on a pretty bad scratch on my door and after a little buffing you can't even tell where it was anymore. For $18 (the cost of the "kit" with tridiron paint and clearcoat) it's certainly worth a try. - sheureka
Yes, the white is all the way thru/impregnated in the plastic, from what I read. I will look into the smart clearcoat, thanks.

I have also read on some other threads (gotten from the bottom of the page) about some other products: wet-o-dry, langka scratch repair, and quixx. I'm thinking about trying some body repair forums or local body shops and mentioning my idea and these products and see what response I get.
 

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wet sanding

Hi Trena, I have some experience in this field, but I don't know what you can get hold of over there as I am from Britain, so I will tell you what I know and if you need any more info get in touch or maybe somebody on here can help you with suppliers.

Over here you can go to the smart dealers and get a touch up kit, I presume if it is white there is no clearcoat, just a primer and top coat, fill scratch with primer if it is down through paint to plastic or if it is not that deep just the top coat white, so that paint is slightly proud but not too much, now leave for a couple of days to let the paint completely dry, now here comes the scary part, but don't panic, you are going to sandpaper the paintwork, yes I know it sounds horrendous but read on.
You need to find a good car bodyshop supplier and get some wet and dry sandpaper, get some 1200 grit, 1500 grit and 2000 grit, if the paint you have put on is not too proud you won't need anything harsher, and while you are there get some good quality rubbing compound and a good wax.

Now to the practical; if the scratch is not too big just use a little bit of the 1200 grit sandpaper to start with, just cut it to about a couple of inches square, get a bucket of water with a little bit of detergent in it and soak the sandpaper in it and then wet the scratched area as well, now start sanding the scratch with the paper just using two fingers so you don't put too much pressure on it, keep the area wet by dripping more water on it with a sponge and do it until the area is getting smoother, do this with the 1500 grit and then finish off with the 2000 grit, you should now have a completely smooth surface, with no scratch showing and you should be able to run your finger over it and feel it is completely smooth, but the surface will be dull, as you have taken the shine off it, you now use the rubbing compound, apply a small amount to a very wet cloth, and rub in a swirly motion, as before keep the area well wet, with clean water,now the quality of the finish is dependent on the time you have spent on it, so don't be in a rush with any of the steps, this could take hours, once you are happy with the surface, which should now be perfect you apply the wax coat to seal the surface, I am using the new product over here, Turtle wax ice, as it is clear and leaves a nice streak free, shiny coat.
I have used the above technique on scratches and also sprayed a boot spoiler and wetsanded it to finish it and I got fantastic results, but as I said before, the results depends on the time taken.
Hope you try it as it has taken me ages as I am not very good at typing, and I hope this helps somebody else as well.
It should save you a lot of money as all the stuff is fairly cheap, to buy.
Good luck should you wish to try it.
Ellis
 

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Thank you very much Headless! Very well done and very informative. Maybe one of the mods can make it a sticky in the mods thread or maintenance:wink:


:smartje.rd.zw:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks chieftmc, but what is a sticky?
El.
ps what's brown and sticky?















A stick.
ha ha ha ha ha... a stick!

A sticky is a thread posted at the top of the list of threads in a particular forum that is permanently there. That way, every time someone brings up that forum page, they see it. It's a reference tool for forum readers. I agree with chiefmc that your info should be a sticky for those with painted surfaces. My car has plastic panels that are impregnated with the paint color and clearcoated. I appreciate all your info and trouble, but I am too scared and impatient to use your technique! I plan to recontact the body shop and see if they can't smooth it down (maybe using some of your techniques) and cover it with clearcoat touch up paint. I think it would be hardly noticeable and surely they can do that for less than $280 that a new panel would cost with install labor. On a body repair forum, I got a response that they would do all kinds of sanding down and such, and match the 'paint' somehow etc, and it would cost $350-450! Remind me not to take my car to THAT guy! LOL I think they all think I want it back perfect, and I don't, because I don't want to spend the money for perfect. I just want it smoothed up to keep the dirt out of it. So if my body shop won't do that or do it for cheap, then I will buy some sandpaper and clearcoat touch up paint and try it myself. What do I have to lose? I can always replace the panel...
 

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go on try it

Hi Trena, go on try it, it is not as scary as you think, the 2000 grit wet and dry paper is really smooth, not knobbly like standard sandpaper, so it does'nt make a mess of your paintwork, put on white paint into scratch and then build up with clearcoat, and do all the wetsanding and rubbing that I said.
The way they spray cars must be different over there, white does not have a clearcoat over here, only metallic colors do.
Building up with clearcoat will actually give a better finish after wetsanding, as it should blend in better.
El
 

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The best option may be to buy new panels and sell your old ones to someone who's planning to repaint or wrap them anyway. I've got scratches on three left side panels, and I can imagine it'll take $500 or more to replace them. I haven't asked about paint touch-ups because I'm hoping someone here will know how to touch up black panel paint so it looks new.

On the bright side, the plastic panels are dent resistant... a few days ago a woman opened her door pretty hard into mine and it barely moved the dust on the panel.
 

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Someone clipped the right front wheel wel on my red smart and left a 2" scratch that goes down to the black plastic at the end of the scratch. My dealer doesn't offer red touch-up paint,only blue and silver. My only options according to him are to re-paint the whole panel or replace the whole panel!??I asked about scratch repair but I didn't get an answer. So a 2" scratch is going to cost $200.00-$300.00! OUCH!!!
 

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Is similar touch up possible on a Red body panel? Are there red touch up kits that match the paint? Thanks in advance for any responses
 

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Touch up paint sets are available from your smart center or Smart Online Parts, a supporting vendor. :)
 

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I used a 'clearcoat pen' on the scratched door panel (Black passenger side) and it is not perfect, but is much better. The scratch left a white edge and the clearcoat hides it a bit. Since it is right in the middle of the door, I am hesitant about sanding it even with a 2000 grit paper.

I also get scratches from snowbanks that have sand in them from the street snowplows. When I pull out from the curb, they scratch the corners on the bumpers.
 

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Last July some ding-a-ling dragged a white colored door across the front of the fender flair on the right-front quarter panel. It wasn't an accidental "door ding, Oops" - it was a "hit the leading edge of the fender, then pushing the door open across it". Other than the paint transfer, it looked like they took a hand-held wood file to the fender. It was beyond repair. I did not even contact my insurance company - I knew it would be a waste of my time.

I went to the original smart center Portland (where I bought the car. This is well after MB moved the dealership to MB of Portland, OR) and the service manager sourced a used right-front quarter panel in my car's color.

I wish I still had the paperwork on it for the price of the panel, but the total bill for the panel and labor to install it was $370.88 USD. Mind you, replacing a front quarter panel requires removing the front clip, replacing the panel, and reinstalling the front clip - which will run the labor cost up a bit.
 
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