[nickbauman]

I replaced the secondary air injection pump today. Here are the steps:

1. Loosen right rear lugs. Jack up from right rear jacking point. Put a stand carefully under the right rear swing arm.

2. Remove wheel.

3. Remove inner wheel well plastic nuts and peel back wheel well surround. You can just barely see the gold BOSCH part number label of the pump back there at the top of picture.

4. The part in-situ. The surface coming out of the upper-left hand corner of the image is the BACK OF THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT. The horizontal square tube of steel along the bottom of the image is the CHASSIS RAIL. So you can see this is a TIGHT FIT.

5. This is the part removed by 3 torx screws that go through the chassis rail mount into the chassis rail. The three torx screws that go through the holes in the mount are not easy to remove. I had to loosen the item in its rubber harness and push it around to get at the torx. I was not able to re-mount the torx going into the rail on the left of the picture! I used blue loc-tite on the other two to compensate for this.

Good luck.

 

[KyleStarnes]

Thanks for the help dude!!!!!

 

[jwight]

Moved to Operation and Maintenance and it's now a sticky.

 

[SmartDigger]

looks like I need to do this one

 

[caroldear81058]

Our check engine light came on and the diagnostics was P0410 code secondary air injection pump. 2008 Smart Passion, no frills in it. Just replaced the pump, old one was full of water. Not sure it is working. How can I tell? Not hearing anything. Checked all fuses, all working. Any suggestions??

 

[BobCan]

Ok, so I'm not getting a P0410 code, I am getting a P2440 code... However, I replaced the Electric Change Over Valve I think it is called and about a week later I got the P2440 code again. My secondary injector sounds like a jet engine now cranking it. So something is going on with the pump itself... I mean it's loud... not the normal whining. Can the P2440 be coming from a bad secondary air injection pump? Also, does anyone have the injector pump part number? Thanks!!!

 

[Goofybutsane]

Before you replace the pump pull the hose off the pump and keep it connected to the combination and blow in it if you have air passing through the combination valve is bad and a new pump will be cooked in a month and your gone $100 again and don’t do this while the engine is running lol

 

[1stiski]

Thanks for posting a future repair !

 

[BobCan]

Before you replace the pump pull the hose off the pump and keep it connected to the combination and blow in it if you have air passing through the combination valve is bad and a new pump will be cooked in a month and your gone $100 again and don’t do this while the engine is running lol

If I am able to pass air through it, would that be because the over valve has gone bad again? So the valve should be closed at start up and open when started? Thank you

 

[Goofybutsane]

Yeah the valve is closed until there’s a vaccume applied to it when you start the car cold the switch is opened by the Sam vacuume runs to the combination valve and openes it then when the pump stops the vacuume is turned off and the combination valve seals shut again

 

[Sam smart car]

I m told this is the part that makes a 2 -3 second Buzzing sound when you turn the key in to position two , my car stopped making this sound and won't start. Would this part being bad cause a no start situation? Car was ruining fine shut off and now turns over quite funny sounding like no fuel but also no buzzing in position two. I always thought this was some sort of injectors priming the cylinders.. anyhow if anyone knows of either a fair pricing smart shop or a 451 backyard specialist in the Toronto area can you please contact me or post their info so I can contact them ? Situation pretty stranded

 

[jwight]

Have you also posted on Club Smart Car?

 

[Imad1962]

Can any one write the part nomber and a picture as will .please

 

[jwight]

Can any one write the part nomber and a picture as will .please

There's a photo in post #1. This is not OEM, but it has the part number: Amazon.com: Secondary Air Injection Pump for 2008-2015 Mercedes Smart Fortwo 1.0L L3: Automotive

 

[toobroke]

Has anyone ever considered drilling a small hole at the bottom if the secondary air pump to allow for the drainage of water which seems to be an issue as to why the pump can fail?
Upon dis-assembly of my pump, which was seized, rusted beyond repair, this may have been a possible prevention step. Or is this a snake oil attempt?

 

[jetfuel]

…drill away…
…did it to my bride’s car…my car has no such pump…

jetfuel…1/4 will do

 

[toobroke]

Okay, so I did dis-assemble the pump in order to drill the hole in the correct spot as there is a inner sleeve liner between the two halves of the pump. So it is important not just to drill a hole anywhere, as well as to possibly drill into the fan itself. So now any moisture can drain which seems to be the cause of failure on these secondary pumps. As well I was able to inspect the condition of the wrecker pump at the same time. Turns out the pump looks next to new. And all bolts were re-installed. Really not that hard, once you know the couple tips that make re-installation go super smooth.
Code po410 is gone, pump runs when it should, and actually is pretty quiet.
Thanks to the original poster, and boob tube videos, a job completed and well done !

 

[NERV]

Thanks so much for sharing this repair, and I'm also happy to have found this online community.
My Smart through a P0410 a few days ago and a couple of local shops aren't willing to just replace the part unless they diagnose first; which they're charging 2-4 hours to do. One shop did tell me it's ok to drive the car with the check engine light since this part is really just required for passing emissions. Anyways, looks like I can repair myself - thanks to this post!!

For others wondering about the part number; it seems to be 0001406385 on MBparts.