Smart Car of America Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
2008 smart car- I am having a hard time with an issue with that I thought was the clutch actuator. The car starts up fine and idles ok. All gears show up in the instrument display but when I try to take off, there is severe jerking until I have momentum. The shifting is very erratic. No errors have come up on the instrument panel. I have replaced the clutch actuator and also tried adjusting this with no changes. I have also tried disconnecting the battery and still the issue is present. I am not sure what else it might be and I'm trying to avoid taking this in for service. Has anyone had this issue? I am Leaning towards to actual having to replace the clutch. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated

Bryan
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,135 Posts
We had exactly the same thing going on for a short time. I recognized the jerking and the rumbling at low speeds instantly as a motor mount issue.

It may also not hurt to unplug the gas pedal and clean off the contacts on the RJ45 plug it has in the back. The pedal works mainly on resistance, so if there's grime or oxidization on the contacts (from lots of water on it) that may be part of it too.
 

·
Moderator
Joined
·
17,351 Posts
Welcome!

My 2012 (43,666 mi on the clock) was doing this in cold weather up until yesterday. Starting off on green lights the engine would shudder and vibrate.

Since I have an UltraGauge, I measured data and figured it was a defective thermostat.

Multiple dealer visits, bloody awful smart USA customer service, even contacting engineers in Germany. No vice.

Last week I had a brand new 2013 loaner and had an eureka moment.

A couple days ago, I removed my factory motor mount and lo and behold, the darn thing was as flexible as a sheet of paper. Apparently, for the dealer to replace it under warranty it has to have failed completely, not just be worn out.

I built a Homebrew motor mount out of solid rubber and the frame of the factory one. Holy cow, my $26 mount made the car feel better than brand new!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
So to date I have replaced the clutch actuator, set it as per instructions, replaced motor mounts and also cleaned off connector on the gas pedal. Still have severe jerking going on. I'm starting to wonder if the actual clutch has to be replaced. Anyone have other suggestions.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
338 Posts
Did you replace the actuator yourself? If so you may want to take the car to a dealer so they can hook it up to a STAR system and reteach the onboard computer as to the correct contact point for the clutch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
So I have not hooked up a OBDC II and found error code P0805, any ideas on this? I did the teach in to the transmission already.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
338 Posts
"Teaching in" the transmission is not the same as resetting the contact point for the clutch. I think following the procedure for manually adjusting the actuator basically gets you in the ballpark but to really get it right it has to be done electronically so the car's computer "knows" exactly when the clutch starts to engage. A year ago we had our 08 transmission software updated to the latest spec and as part of the service the dealership did the contact point "re-teach". Not only are the shifts much quicker (I attribute that to the update) I also noticed that moving from a standing start is also a lot smoother (maybe due to the clutch reteach). The code you mentioned is related to "clutch position sensor" issue so seems like its consistent with an actuator which is not positioned correctly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
345 Posts
Hey man, you are in the same boat as me...
I'm replacing the clutch on my smart.
It shifted like a new driver was behind the wheel, dropping the clutch in hard and shifting hard, it would take off from a stop with twice the crawl force it should use, it would take more braking to get the clutch to disengage. I would normally get this behavior after accelerating hard and shifting to the next gear, either in auto or manual.

Software updates were done but all they did was change shift points, for the better!

Then the dealer said it was the actuator, so it was replaced. the car still misbehaved. A year later I installed a new actuator and took it to the dealer to have the program the trans. While there they told me that they could not get rid of the behavior and wanted to replace the clutch.

I'll be honest, the car is just about back together. I needed Redline trans fluid and nobody that was open on the weekend had it, but I just got back with it so...

When I pulled my clutch out I expected to see something that would catch my eye and give me evidence of a problem, not the case. The lining was worn but in spec. No hot-spots on the flywheel or the friction plate.

But think about it...

The friction plate, if the diaphragm spring goes bad, the clutch will be hard to press in and release. On the same note, if it was hard to push in and release, it will want to re-engage quicker since it most likely never traveled to it full open state. That's where I think the jerking is coming into play.

I have done extensive internet research on this and a bad diaphragm spring in a friction plate will cause this type of behavior.

I'm counting on this being true in my case.

I'll come back and post to your thread once it's running again.

Good luck and don't ever believe them when they tell you that your driving to hard, it's not a horse!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
345 Posts
The code you mentioned is related to "clutch position sensor" issue so seems like its consistent with an actuator which is not positioned correctly.
This is a good point. The position sensor is in the actuator. If the actuator is supposed to be at a certain position, but there is a mechanical block, you should get this code.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Well after a long struggle with this issue, I drove the car into the dealership. the car only required updates and they synced the clutch actuator to the computer. Lesson leanred was if your going to replace the clutch actuator, this will require setup at the dealership. If you are just taking it off for some greasing and cleaning, make sure the location is marked well before removal. This is slotted for adjstument. Oh, did I tell you the car currently has 200,000 kms on it,. Thank you for all the help, suggestions and ideas along the way. Got some new parts on my car anyways.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top