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Discussion Starter #1
Soooo just happened... my smart car died in the middle of pulling outof a restaurant, and told me my car was due for yearly service in 29 days with a red light followed up with a engine drive failure. Anyone know what to do with this? After 4 restarts and going every 500 ft, everything became okay and I was able to make it home.

Fyi charged car last night, drove A ok to work, left work with a 90% charge
 

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After 4 restarts and going every 500 ft, everything became okay and I was able to make it home.
I've experienced issues in early ownership (5 months ago) where reversing out of a spot, I moved selector to drive, and the car provided no power (aka "stall"). This happened to me a few times, and my wife once.

Read on this board that I shouldn't switch the selector into reverse (or drive) until the dash has reported the car is fully started and ready. Since waiting that extra second, the stall didn't happen again.

Now the problem you report sounds far more serious! I recall a few fellow members here having problems that started out sounding like this, and they got worse, not better. Agree that a dealer needs to troubleshoot this issue.
 

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wellll... dealership said they could not find any error in the car, stating the car may have had a freak incident and now all is well O___o" They also stated that with the new v9 software update, everything including battery consumption will be a lot better.
 

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They also stated that with the new v9 software update, everything including battery consumption will be a lot better.
I wonder if there is a way to check the software version without going in to the dealership for service? I'm curious what build dates have the v9 software pre-installed?
 

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well got my car back... they claim that everything should be ok after the v9 software upgrade. there were 6 battery software updates that were put into my ED, and in which they were able to locate a couple of battery faults. all cleared now, and running in tip top shape. got my car back stating a 90 mile range lol when i usually avg 62....
 

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well got my car back... all cleared now, and running in tip top shape
Glad to hear it, hoping it runs great from now on for you!


got my car back stating a 90 mile range lol when i usually avg 62....
This is almost certainly due to the reset of the cars driving knowledge. The range guess-o-meter will fully reset and then learn your habits and then invariably report less range available when you drive it a few times.

I rarely get above 30% eco rating, so my range rarely reports over 100km...Except for the other day when I took it on a 80km round trip into the country and back, which uses a lot less kwh/100km due to steady rural roads vs city commute driving. When I turned on the car the next morning after a full charge it read 120km, which I haven't see since I picked it up from the dealer...
 

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You can also clear your driving history from the range estimator by resetting the "RESET" odometer.

When I get in the car after She-Who-Must-Be-Obeyed drove it, I get a +20mile range jump when I reset it. Still haven't figured how she drives it to use that much juice :shrug:
 

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This happened to me today. I have the video from my dashcam but it doesn't really show anything. A restart and it appeared to be fine. I drove to work 11miles. About to drive home so we'll see how that goes.
 

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Did it stop during your drive, or at the very beginning?
I drove about two blocks from home and turned left onto the main road. It died while turning. I was able to coast for quite a long time and turned into the next driveway. It appeared the 12v system still worked but there was no power steering and no acceleration or regen.
 

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This is going to sound silly, but could it have been the keys???

I ask because back in 2008 some ICE owners had this same problem.

Turned out they accidentally bumped into their keys while driving, shutting down everything.

If that's not the case, is the ignition design for the ED different from ICE?

Like, is there any different wiring that could possibly be being bounced about and occasionally disconnected?

Since your 12V power still worked, I wager the problem is originating from the ignition.

Off topic: I love how you get back to whistling without even skipping a beat. :)
 

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This is going to sound silly, but could it have been the keys???
...
Off topic: I love how you get back to whistling without even skipping a beat. :)
Thanks, I don't tend to panic when unexpected things happen. You're probably right about the keys. I went out to the car and it's likely my wallet in my pocket hit the key when I turned left.
 
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