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Discussion Starter #1
Hello to fellow Smarties,
I am new to the forum so please forgive me if this is posted incorrectly or if I offend anyone by my misunderstanding forum options.
I also want to thank everyone who posted their tow suggestions as they were very helpful in setting up mine.

Just returned from 1000+ mile trip towing the "Giggle Box" for the first time. No problems at all. I forgot to attach the bungee cord one day in the mountains. Did not suffer any apparent issues, but always used the bungee before and after that occasion.

I had read more than one problem with the "hood" access panel coming loose and being destroyed because owners routed the lighting wiring
inside and had to open and re-lock it to plug the wiring in each time. While the front body clip was off for the base plate install, I mounted the wiring plug just below the license plate and ran the wire harness up to the fire wall and through into the cabin. See pics
I had bad experiences using the tow vehicle lights and wiring in our former tow-a Jeep. So, I bypassed the Smart wiring and made some easy brackets with LED trailer lights. Worked out very well and the lights are nice and bright. I used some metal mending plates from Home Depot and bent them 90 degrees. Then, slotted them with a dremmel for easy mount/dismount on Smartie. Just two screws on each side panel where the rear "trunk" seam is. Also, optional quick connects on wiring to store the lights at home. See pics
I installed a Roadmaster base plate. Did it myself- not easy, but quite doable if you have any automotive mechanical experience. Most trouble was removing and re-installing the sills, or rocker panels. They hide a single screw which needs to be removed to take off the front body clip. For anyone doing their own baseplate install I do have a simple modification to the instructions which strengthens the attachment to the Smart frame ends- well worthwhile. It sounds formidable, but removing the front body clip itself was quite easy.

By the way, love driving the "Giggle Box" So much fun. Surprising the attention it draws at campgrounds.
 

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How much $$ did this take? I ask because on Amazon.com a 4-pack of Roadmaster diodes is less than $50. There's an access panel on the inside of each rear quarter panel that makes installing and accessing them easy.

 

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Discussion Starter #4
The 4 wire harness (20') was $7 and the LED lights were $18. Mending plates cost $3. I wasn't necessarily trying to save $. Mostly wanted bright, prominent LED lights and to avoid blowing fuses, and other problems in the Smart by bypassing it's wiring system. Our Jeep was wired using the diodes, and it's wiring.
Many different problems over several years with that situation.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Home Depot (and others) have a variety of specialized metal pieces for wood construction. They go by various names but these were called "mending plates"-
used to tie 2 pieces of wood together.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, all Smarts are automatic stick shifts. You put it in Neutral and turn the key to the off position (left as far as it will go) It won't allow you to remove the key though. Then, turn the battery cut off switch to the off position. The cut off was easy to install. Put mine under the dash.
Hope that helps. More questions? No problem.
 

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did you use the negative terminal on your switch. I think I just want to lift the whole negative terminal until I figure out a swithc that works. Not knowing much about batteries is the positive better
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Hi,
yes, I used the negative side. (most recommend using the negative rather than the positive) Walmart sells battery cables located near the car batteries in their stores. I bought two 18" cables. They already have round lug terminals on each end. Disconnect both positive and negative battery cables when you install the switch as a safety precaution. Install one new cable end on the negative terminal of the battery. Install the other end on either lug of the switch. Install one end of the second cable to the other switch lug. Install the other end of that cable to the same ground bolt the original battery cable terminates at on the chassis. It is very near the battery. You can either remove the original negative cable (I did) or, leave it. If you leave it, tape the end well so it can't touch either the negative battery terminal or the positive terminal. Reattach the positive cable to the positive battery terminal. Done
You can get a battery cut off switch at Walmart or any auto parts store.
 

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Battery Disconnect on Positive side of battery

I had to install the battery disconnect switch on the Positive side of the battery.



I am using an auxiliary braking system which needs battery power. In order to keep the toad battery charged, I am using the battery charge wire from the tow vehicle, which requires that the negative side of the battery be connected.
 
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