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Estimate by PAC is $2-3k for 3 days work. I'm guessing the high end due to slooowness of the initial charging of each cell that is required will take a lot of time and go beyond 3 days.
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Hi
I have a 2015 Smart ED, I bought from a dealer in Centralia,WA. I have it at home in Kapowsin,WA on high blocks to get the HV battery out. It is a little tricky to get the battery out, I use my motorcycle stand from Harbor Freight. On the back side is the HV plug and a Hose with a quick connect, on the driver side in the back is the Communication plug, on the front are two coolant lines. The Battery weights 400lbs . When the battery is removed from the car, remove all nut and screws. drill out the rivets and break the seal. A blow dryer helps and a flat screwdriver. Pull the cover strait up and on the left side is the BMS.
I send my BMS to Lithuania per EQpassion via USPS for about $70. FEDEX was $280. USPS only track within the US. I got it back after 6 weeks and the Brick error P18051C has been deleted for good, but there are 21 other error still active, some are just in Memory. My AUTEL scanner says it cannot delete the errors.
I build a charger with part I had. I does not monitor the battery. i check the battery over time if it has equal charge and increased the voltage slowly. Now the battery is at 70% according to the gauge on my dashboard that is 360Volt DC. The fuse in the HV Battery is over 200A that more power that PSE delivers to my house lol. Still HV to Workshop is displayed. I am looking for extra stuff.
 

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I'm in Pennsylvania, and can fix your BMS. We've been doing it recently with success. Just repaired one and sent it back to California. Message me directly if interested, or see my Ebay auction for same.
Bill K
 

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Hi
I have a 2015 Smart ED, I bought from a dealer in Centralia,WA. I have it at home in Kapowsin,WA on high blocks to get the HV battery out. It is a little tricky to get the battery out, I use my motorcycle stand from Harbor Freight. On the back side is the HV plug and a Hose with a quick connect, on the driver side in the back is the Communication plug, on the front are two coolant lines. The Battery weights 400lbs . When the battery is removed from the car, remove all nut and screws. drill out the rivets and break the seal. A blow dryer helps and a flat screwdriver. Pull the cover strait up and on the left side is the BMS.
I send my BMS to Lithuania per EQpassion via USPS for about $70. FEDEX was $280. USPS only track within the US. I got it back after 6 weeks and the Brick error P18051C has been deleted for good, but there are 21 other error still active, some are just in Memory. My AUTEL scanner says it cannot delete the errors.
I build a charger with part I had. I does not monitor the battery. i check the battery over time if it has equal charge and increased the voltage slowly. Now the battery is at 70% according to the gauge on my dashboard that is 360Volt DC. The fuse in the HV Battery is over 200A that more power that PSE delivers to my house lol. Still HV to Workshop is displayed. I am looking for extra stuff.
If you got a BMS back and have a bunch of undeletable errors, it's most likely other hardware failures, not the BMS's fault. The DC-DC converter takes others with it when it goes down. Look for used parts, there are some around. Mercedes won;t sell internal parts unfortunately.
 

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You are partially correct, I did just that from a trip home from a buddy's house whose electric panel wasn't installed correctly (no neutral ground connection) and it wouldn't let me charge. Trailering is of course a bit dangerous, but you simply apply a slight brake to get regen active, and place drag on the tow rope at all times, you'd be surprised how quickly the thing charges back up. But that's only for an otherwise healthy car, not a bricked battery with open contactors.
 

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Agree on all comments fro Bill.
You see a regional solution can solve the issue on BMS much faster and even cheaper, but never the less the Autel could really not delete all failures in the car setup.

If the main failures are deleted the contactor should at least switch on with a HV shop mode request. Otherwise there is wrong something else. Often the guys not fix a latent hw failure of the BMS which cause a drain current inside the battery. This you can see if the contactor never switched on but the stacks discharge either.
Other topic to charge all cells to 3,5-3,6 volt is more then enough. The rest should be done by the original charger.

The failures in the system should be investigated. maybe we could help remote.
Please post a list of still active failures of the system and we could for sure help.
 
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