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Estimate by PAC is $2-3k for 3 days work. I'm guessing the high end due to slooowness of the initial charging of each cell that is required will take a lot of time and go beyond 3 days.
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Smart ForTwo ED "malfunction" error when charging (not driven in 8 weeks)
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Hi
I have a 2015 Smart ED, I bought from a dealer in Centralia,WA. I have it at home in Kapowsin,WA on high blocks to get the HV battery out. It is a little tricky to get the battery out, I use my motorcycle stand from Harbor Freight. On the back side is the HV plug and a Hose with a quick connect, on the driver side in the back is the Communication plug, on the front are two coolant lines. The Battery weights 400lbs . When the battery is removed from the car, remove all nut and screws. drill out the rivets and break the seal. A blow dryer helps and a flat screwdriver. Pull the cover strait up and on the left side is the BMS.
I send my BMS to Lithuania per EQpassion via USPS for about $70. FEDEX was $280. USPS only track within the US. I got it back after 6 weeks and the Brick error P18051C has been deleted for good, but there are 21 other error still active, some are just in Memory. My AUTEL scanner says it cannot delete the errors.
I build a charger with part I had. I does not monitor the battery. i check the battery over time if it has equal charge and increased the voltage slowly. Now the battery is at 70% according to the gauge on my dashboard that is 360Volt DC. The fuse in the HV Battery is over 200A that more power that PSE delivers to my house lol. Still HV to Workshop is displayed. I am looking for extra stuff.
I have a 2015 Smart ED, I bought from a dealer in Centralia,WA. I have it at home in Kapowsin,WA on high blocks to get the HV battery out. It is a little tricky to get the battery out, I use my motorcycle stand from Harbor Freight. On the back side is the HV plug and a Hose with a quick connect, on the driver side in the back is the Communication plug, on the front are two coolant lines. The Battery weights 400lbs . When the battery is removed from the car, remove all nut and screws. drill out the rivets and break the seal. A blow dryer helps and a flat screwdriver. Pull the cover strait up and on the left side is the BMS.
I send my BMS to Lithuania per EQpassion via USPS for about $70. FEDEX was $280. USPS only track within the US. I got it back after 6 weeks and the Brick error P18051C has been deleted for good, but there are 21 other error still active, some are just in Memory. My AUTEL scanner says it cannot delete the errors.
I build a charger with part I had. I does not monitor the battery. i check the battery over time if it has equal charge and increased the voltage slowly. Now the battery is at 70% according to the gauge on my dashboard that is 360Volt DC. The fuse in the HV Battery is over 200A that more power that PSE delivers to my house lol. Still HV to Workshop is displayed. I am looking for extra stuff.
Joined
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84 Posts
I'm in Pennsylvania, and can fix your BMS. We've been doing it recently with success. Just repaired one and sent it back to California. Message me directly if interested, or see my Ebay auction for same.
Bill K
Bill K
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84 Posts
If you got a BMS back and have a bunch of undeletable errors, it's most likely other hardware failures, not the BMS's fault. The DC-DC converter takes others with it when it goes down. Look for used parts, there are some around. Mercedes won;t sell internal parts unfortunately.
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84 Posts
You are partially correct, I did just that from a trip home from a buddy's house whose electric panel wasn't installed correctly (no neutral ground connection) and it wouldn't let me charge. Trailering is of course a bit dangerous, but you simply apply a slight brake to get regen active, and place drag on the tow rope at all times, you'd be surprised how quickly the thing charges back up. But that's only for an otherwise healthy car, not a bricked battery with open contactors.
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217 Posts
Agree on all comments fro Bill.
You see a regional solution can solve the issue on BMS much faster and even cheaper, but never the less the Autel could really not delete all failures in the car setup.
If the main failures are deleted the contactor should at least switch on with a HV shop mode request. Otherwise there is wrong something else. Often the guys not fix a latent hw failure of the BMS which cause a drain current inside the battery. This you can see if the contactor never switched on but the stacks discharge either.
Other topic to charge all cells to 3,5-3,6 volt is more then enough. The rest should be done by the original charger.
The failures in the system should be investigated. maybe we could help remote.
Please post a list of still active failures of the system and we could for sure help.
You see a regional solution can solve the issue on BMS much faster and even cheaper, but never the less the Autel could really not delete all failures in the car setup.
If the main failures are deleted the contactor should at least switch on with a HV shop mode request. Otherwise there is wrong something else. Often the guys not fix a latent hw failure of the BMS which cause a drain current inside the battery. This you can see if the contactor never switched on but the stacks discharge either.
Other topic to charge all cells to 3,5-3,6 volt is more then enough. The rest should be done by the original charger.
The failures in the system should be investigated. maybe we could help remote.
Please post a list of still active failures of the system and we could for sure help.
Back home again. was 14 day in Los Angeles on a Service call repairing Two machines for a customer. According to the readout there are shorts in some wires. To ground and to plus. It would be nice to get a wiring diagram for the car. This way I could use my Volt/ Ohm meter and find out if the "shorts" are real or Imaginary. I don't have a big enough garage to park the car inside, today is a little to cold 32F ( oder 0 Grad Celsius für die Deutschen) To many other toys. To me it was interesting that only Former East-block countries had people that hacked the BMS. At least here is one now here in the US. The attached file can be changed to .CSV and opened in Excel or with Open Office Spreed sheet
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217 Posts
Ok,
First of all most critical in BMS the failure code for not plugged in or broken current sensor.
Also it seems you service disconnect could maybe not installed right.
With this your car should go already active even the HV service is still initiated.
You need to get a reset of stored failure code in you whole car by a bigger MB tester or by Bill.
The pump failures could come from the dry or empty cooling system.
I expect the car did not see a accident with open airbags before you start?
Otherwise there are additional steps necessary. Like replace the pyrofuse, but this would be a last step.
You see the other forum could not help because the knowledge is very limited there ;-) there are other German forums which can over more detailed knowledge.
First of all most critical in BMS the failure code for not plugged in or broken current sensor.
Also it seems you service disconnect could maybe not installed right.
With this your car should go already active even the HV service is still initiated.
You need to get a reset of stored failure code in you whole car by a bigger MB tester or by Bill.
The pump failures could come from the dry or empty cooling system.
I expect the car did not see a accident with open airbags before you start?
Otherwise there are additional steps necessary. Like replace the pyrofuse, but this would be a last step.
You see the other forum could not help because the knowledge is very limited there ;-) there are other German forums which can over more detailed knowledge.
I filled up the coolant tank with water hoping the pumps turn on an the Coolant empty error would go away, but it did not. Last time it worked. but it took a while and then I saw the water moving in the expansion tank. The current sensor issue is interesting. I never had current from my charger go through it. To me as electrician the sensor should not care if the current come from the internal or an external charger. Since I bought the car cheap,($2000 + tax) knowing it did not charge, but did not know that it is getting that tricky to get it fixed. Fuses and contactors are simple to replace.
I wonder if the current sensor is a LEM module we had on the Ingersoll GHK EDM generator ( cir 1990) for electrical discharge machining (Funkenerosion). We checked the DC current for display purpose, that would be the same for the % Powermeter A15p6. Displaying the battery discharge or regen charge.
Good thing is the battery is still at 75% according to the SOC meter and has not changed in the last 14 days. Hopefully the weather get better and I can work some more on the car.
I wonder if the current sensor is a LEM module we had on the Ingersoll GHK EDM generator ( cir 1990) for electrical discharge machining (Funkenerosion). We checked the DC current for display purpose, that would be the same for the % Powermeter A15p6. Displaying the battery discharge or regen charge.
Good thing is the battery is still at 75% according to the SOC meter and has not changed in the last 14 days. Hopefully the weather get better and I can work some more on the car.
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217 Posts
Sorry to tell you, you are far away of the current sensor details.
LEM typical use closed loop sensor approach.
A technical detail which let them be isolated from the main current loop.
The batterie sensor EBS2 from Bosch used as current sensor only is a shunt type, which owns a own microcontroller which do a LIN bus protocol to the BMS ECU and is supplied by the BMS ECU with 13,4V during operation.
This voltage increase outside the specification during charging ( reason everybody tell to disconnect during charging), but also dueing discharge and die of the battery. In thisncase the earliest moment you can see this, when the batter is charged again and current sensor is plugged in again.
Without you would have no change to get the contactors active. Also the contactors and fuse inside the battery would 99% ok.
You could read easily the KL30C voltage to check this for the pyrofuse and service disconnect.
LEM typical use closed loop sensor approach.
A technical detail which let them be isolated from the main current loop.
The batterie sensor EBS2 from Bosch used as current sensor only is a shunt type, which owns a own microcontroller which do a LIN bus protocol to the BMS ECU and is supplied by the BMS ECU with 13,4V during operation.
This voltage increase outside the specification during charging ( reason everybody tell to disconnect during charging), but also dueing discharge and die of the battery. In thisncase the earliest moment you can see this, when the batter is charged again and current sensor is plugged in again.
Without you would have no change to get the contactors active. Also the contactors and fuse inside the battery would 99% ok.
You could read easily the KL30C voltage to check this for the pyrofuse and service disconnect.
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1 Posts
hi there, I have a same issue with my 2014 smart . did you get yours fixed? help please
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