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Discussion Starter #1
Hey all,

I have a 2008 fourtwo that likely need a major tranny repair replacement. Given that it had around 86,000 miles on it. Is it even worth the time and expense? Also, I do not have access to a smart mechanic so if it were to be done, it be me, myself and I. Has anyone pulled engine/tranny? My biggest concern is specialize tools that I may need.

Thoughts on both?
 

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Why do you think it needs a tranny replacement? The tranny's in these cars have been very reliable. I could understand a clutch actuator going bad, that is fairly expensive(about $600), but can be done in about 1/2 an hour..

Maybe a little more explanation of what it is or isn't doing would help us help you...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
P-code P0805 Clutch Position Sensor Circuit

Making progress I think. Fuse 30 (40 amp) for the Automated Manual Transmission Control module was blown. Replaced it and held. Got a new P-code of P0805 Clutch position circuit. Given that I could not get the car to move the other day with the transmission in neutral, I can pretty much presume that it's not a faulty sensor wiring although I will explore those too. Any one dealt with this code before?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The other day, one of my kids was driving the car and it stalled at the stop sign and wound not turn over. Had the three dash marks on the gear indicator. They were able to push the car across the street to the gas station.

We couldn't "retrain" the transmission and it was pretty low on gas. We put the car in neutral but could not move the car. The transmission was still engaged. So we had it towed home. I have since discovered that fuse 30, which is a 40 amp fuse for the transmission control module was blown the new few did not blow. My scanner has given me a P code of P0805 Clutch Position Sensor Circuit. I have since done some online research and will be digging into the clutch actuator when I get home from my next road trip.

My reasoning per say for my post is if the issue is the clutch, with such a dissaccembly of the drive train to replace the clutch if that's the case, given that there's 86k miles on the car, would it be just easier to replace bothe engine and tranny as a packaged deal? No matter what I do, it's not going to be cheap. I'm not in a position for another carparment, and with the car broken, it's pretty must worthless to sell. I'm on a small island, hundreds of miles away from anyone who will benefit from a clunker. Just exploring my options
 

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I would raise the back end of the car on ramps, get under the car and have a helper turn the key to #1 position, step on the brake pedal and move the gear selector to drive. Have the helper release and depress the brake pedal and see if the clutch actuator is able to move the clutch arm which pushes the throwout bearing and disengages the clutch. The clutch actuator has been an issue on some higher mileage smarts. Also, the rod extending out of the clutch actuator can break off and the clutch is not able to disengage. This would throw the code that you are seeing.
If you observe that the clutch actuator is not able to disengage the clutch, I would mark it's position, remove and inspect it. Some just require a clean & lube operation and if the rod is broken off at the tip, you will need to replace the actuator. Used ones are available on e-bay or from a smart parts recycler like Autobahn in El Cajon, CA. New actuators can be acquired from your smart Center Parts Dept.
 

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+1

The P0805 is a clutch actuator fault, not a clutch fault. I would do just what Smart Bob suggests. Start out with checking what it's doing under the car, then remove it and clean per instructions here.

Trust me, it's a whole lot easier & cheaper to change out a clutch actuator than an entire drivetrain....
 

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on my second car, 2009 Pure, it stalled at a stop sign. I took it to the dealer and they test drove it, it came back on a tow truck. They replaced the trans and clutch. I believe they later decided it was a software issue and had an update for that
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I'm back from my business trip and have the car up on the ramps. Marked the bolts and pulled out the actuator. Rod does not appear bent or damaged. I pulled the actuator apart, cleaned then lubed it up with som white lithium grease. Put it back together. I still can not start the car, I still have the 3 lines on the shift indicator. I have not bolted in the actuator because the rod is full extended. Even with the key on working the break pedal and shifter, the rod will nor retract in order to be bolted in. What am I missing here?
 

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I'm back from my business trip and have the car up on the ramps. Marked the bolts and pulled out the actuator. Rod does not appear bent or damaged. I pulled the actuator apart, cleaned then lubed it up with som white lithium grease. Put it back together. I still can not start the car, I still have the 3 lines on the shift indicator. I have not bolted in the actuator because the rod is full extended. Even with the key on working the break pedal and shifter, the rod will nor retract in order to be bolted in. What am I missing here?
You need to get the rod retracted first. Easiest way to do that is to remove the motor from the back, pull the cover off, and pry the cam back. Be careful!!! There is a lot of force on that helper spring. When goes over center is will snap hard, and if your fingers are in the way....:eek:

Given my experience with the actuator, I beleive it assumes it's retracted when you turn on the car. So if yours is extended, it is still trying to extend it. The sensors in the actuator are simple hall effect sensors. They sense rotation, not overall position. So it has no idea where it's at, it just tries to move the direction it's programmed to..

If you wanted to get really brave, you can follow the pin-out of the connector in my thread, and just directly apply 12V to the motor and make it actuate, but that's a bit risky unless you understand the electrical side of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I tried to reply earlier but it did not post. How does one reassemble the assembly after its bolted in, when both the drive motor and cover plate screws are located on the top side up against the transmission, all the while keeping crud out. What am I missing here? Is this how they are assembled or normally done by the mechanic?
 

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I tried to reply earlier but it did not post. How does one reassemble the assembly after its bolted in, when both the drive motor and cover plate screws are located on the top side up against the transmission, all the while keeping crud out. What am I missing here? Is this how they are assembled or normally done by the mechanic?
If you are referring to the clutch actuator as the assembly, it must be reassembled and then installed. If the fault code that had set was truly for a clutch actuator position fault, that is a electrical problem that will not be corrected by cleaning and lubricating it. When (if) you get it reinstalled you must do the reteach process before you attempt to start the engine.

If no P shows in the gear position indicator it will not attempt to start. If that happens you will need to find a new or used clutch actuator and start over.

When the car would not roll in Neutral it was because the trans control module did not know the clutch position, therefore it would not attempt to shift the trans that was still in gear. I would wish to know why the fuse that failed did so before I deemed any repair complete.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I've been reaseaching anything I can find on the Internet. I came a cross a post several months ago that showed how to dissassemble, lube and re assemble the actuator. I did notice in those pics with the cover off, that the push rod and cam were both in the compressed state even though it was not in the vehicle. This would also make the reinstallation easy. My push rod and cam are fully extend making it all but impossible to reinstall the actuator (see pic) The only thing I can think that it can be that the drive motor holds it I'm place however motors only do that when the motor is energized. Is my actuator just shot? It's not a cheap part plus it takes time to get parts here. I can't be replacing parts that are not broken
 

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