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Well, I am not familiar enough with the 453 to say. However, the 451, gas powered, is certainly towable 4 down. We've towed ours well over 2000 miles now behind the RV. A great tow vehicle. Easy hookup and unhook, no supplemental brake system, great run car about after reaching your destination, great gas mileage. Further, you never know it is back there because it is so light weight.
 

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MISTER_SMART_LA PAGING MISTER_SMART_LA
Some folks need your input please.
Sorry, missed this thread until now. The answer is NO for the electric versions if the plan is beyond 30 miles and 30 miles per hour maximum speed. The answer is YES for the 451 and 453 gas versions, following a very specific set of instructions without any exceptions or you run risk of damaging or destroying the transmissions in those vehicles.
 

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Great Toad

I have been towing my Smart behind my Sprinter-based Airstream MH for a year now with great success. I use a Blue Ox base plate. I have to check the camera to know it is back there. Costs me anywhere from 1/2 MPG to 1 1/2 mpg depending on terrain. Longest trip was 1250 miles round trip to Big Bend NP, last month. The photo of the Smart is at 5400 ft altitude in the Chisos Basin at Big Bend. I crossed a 6000' pass to get into the basin. The Smart took the 7-mile climb like a champ. Just smelled a bit warm at the top. The Smart was a joy on the switchback curves.

I use a set of wireless tow lights. I installed a battery disconnect switch as additional insurance that the computer stays off during towing. I got tired of remembering to charge the battery for the tow lights, so I installed a cigarette-lighter type outlet in the rear of the Smart that is wired directly to the battery and has no connection to the chassis, bypassing the battery shutoff switch. The tow lights stick on the rear glass using big suction cups and I snake the wire beneath the rear glass to the added outlet.
 

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Another Smartie toad! Congrats. As I posted with pictures previously, our experience has been great like yours has. Your wireless lights are a great idea. I ran mine through the interior with quick disconnects (should we want to leave the lights behind. Otherside, they sit in the "trunk area". The lights are LED and I mounted them on home made brackets which are easily removable when we reach a campground. Nothing visible when the bracket and lights are removed. Small mount screws are inside the hatch jam.
recently installed LED daytime running lights on the Smartie for better daytime visibility. The stock DRL's are ok but these are brighter and save the headlight bulbs.
We ran across some campers who trailered their Smartie behind their RV. What a hassle! They thought the cost of a base plate etc. would be less than using a trailer and easier. Not in our opinion. Then, you also have to store the trailer.
 

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when you say "all set up", what all did you do to the Smart to tow it.
please reply to my email, I don't come on this site often
<[email protected]>
You have to have a base plate for attachment to the hitch. I installed my own Blue Ox base plate. I would not recommend installing one yourself unless you have experience working on cars. You have to remove the entire front clip of the car to access the frame, drill a number of holes, and install bolts that are hard to reach.

I added a battery disconnect switch. Not entirely necessary, but it assures me that the car will safely stay in neutral with the computer off during tow.

You need to either use wireless tow lights like I do or install wiring from the grille to the taillights with diodes to keep the signals from activating the computer. I chose to use wireless lights.

Elsewhere on this site there are instructions for preparing the car before each tow, including putting a bungee cord on the steering wheel to make the Smart tow more smoothly.

I just returned from 500 miles with the Smart behind, mostly in high winds. The Smart actually seems to stabilize the RV (Airstream Interstate) in high winds. I probably have 6000 miles so far with the Smart in tow.

The only thing to beware is that you can't back up more than a few feet. This requires planning at food and fuel stops. Worst case, unhitch and rehitch after you get out of the bind. I have never needed to do this. I have backed a few feet to get out of a tight parking situation, but that is all.
 

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Hello all...new to the forum here and looking for a Smart as we speak. There seems to be some...inconsistency of information regarding Smart being used as a tow vehicle. The 2009 is listed as towable, but some other years aren't. You guys are the experts...can you clarify?
I spoke with a fellow at an RV jamboree and was told he flat tows his smart in neutral. I would like to quit towing my Jeep Liberty diesel and get a Smart but have not found any reliable info on towing one
 

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Towing Smart Car

I spoke with a fellow at an RV jamboree and was told he flat tows his smart in neutral. I would like to quit towing my Jeep Liberty diesel and get a Smart but have not found any reliable info on towing one
Here is my "cheat sheet" for towing our Smart car. 451 automatic trans. You need to install a battery disconnect switch on the negative terminal OR, disconnect the battery and re-connect after each tow. Battery access is a pain so a disconnect switch
mounted under the dash makes it very easy. Hope this helps you.

Smart Tow

1. Put foot on brake pedal
2. Turn on ignition- dash lights up
3. Move gear shift from Park to Neutral
4. Turn ignition key to far left and leave it in
5. Wait for dash lights to go out
6. Turn red battery switch to off
7. Be sure parking brake is off!


After Tow

1. Set parking brake
2. Put foot on brake pedal
3. Turn red battery switch to on
4. Wait for dash lights to show transmission gears
5. Move gear shift to Park.
6. Turn ignition key off.
 

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My flat-tow setup
Here are a few pictures of my set-up to flat tow my 2009 Passion.



Demco baseplate and tow bar



Front of car showing breakaway switch and 6-pin electrical connector.



Towed battery charger mounted under the dashboard.



Direct-wired 12 volt socket for the RVI3 brake.



Battery disconnect switch. It is wired to disconnect the + side of the battery.



The RVI3 Brake and the Bungee Cord.




.
 

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Here is my "cheat sheet" for towing our Smart car. 451 automatic trans. You need to install a battery disconnect switch on the negative terminal OR, disconnect the battery and re-connect after each tow. Battery access is a pain so a disconnect switch
mounted under the dash makes it very easy. Hope this helps you.

Smart Tow

1. Put foot on brake pedal
2. Turn on ignition- dash lights up
3. Move gear shift from Park to Neutral
4. Turn ignition key to far left and leave it in
5. Wait for dash lights to go out
6. Turn red battery switch to off
7. Be sure parking brake is off!


After Tow

1. Set parking brake
2. Put foot on brake pedal
3. Turn red battery switch to on
4. Wait for dash lights to show transmission gears
5. Move gear shift to Park.
6. Turn ignition key off.

I have a cheat sheet very much like yours, which I keep in the glove box. But mine has a couple of steps added which allow for locking the doors.
Your 'before tow' step #7 is very important. I must admit that I forgot to release the parking brake once. It could have been very ugly.

.
 

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what does the DCT denote?
“Dual clutch transmission” - in the smart 453, a manual 6 speed transmission where the gears and clutches are controlled by computer and motors. The previous gen smart had a 5 speed single clutch transmission. The double clutch design allows for more efficient, faster shifting up and down.
 

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For anyone interested...I've confirmed that when using a battery disconnect switch, the odometer does not accumulate miles.
 

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Does anyone have a towed smart with tow bar and a bad motor or transmission to get rid of cheap somewhere close to southern Ill.? I am looking for one to make a trailer. Chumly
 
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