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Just completed the following: (disclaimer: try at your own risk; check local codes etc). BE SAFE!!

REASON for experiment: nearest Smart dealer is 120 miles from home (AZ).....

- Towing Smart REAR WHEELS LEADING 4 down (battery NEG OFF switch under HOOD!! to allow to lock the car, if the FOB is removed) and transmission in N (neutral).
- Using $70 Towbar from HF Tools (fits FRONT or REAR on 2009 Smart)
- Curtis 1 1/4" hitch installed by local RV place
- Using SMART factory tow bolt holes to install a FRONT or REAR hitch, w/o removing any body panels (had to drill a 1" hole on driver side to locate the 2nd FACTORY mounting position); outfit in NM sold the hardware for about $240. The delivered sleeves were of the wrong length... very unsafe to use as is I think.
- To minimize the Smart TOW hook hole stress, I am using the 1 1/4" HITCH as a 3rd member to make the connection solid (one needs to fabricate the connection to the A-frame type tow-bar mounting hardware).
- I am using no diodes for the electrical connection to the tow-vehicle; i.e. disconnect the Smart lights and plug in the tow-vehicle 4-wire Flat connector behind the left rear panel. One needs to understand the electrical basics.
- A MUST: use seatbelt or b-cord 30" to stabilize the steering wheel; especially at Freeway speeds
- The TOWBAR can be "folded up" in the upward position in the rear - to take along - w/o having it dismounted and stored
- I am still working on the mechanism to secure the tow-bar in place when positioned upward.
- backing up, NO problems - I tried it on flat ground for about 40 ft. w/o road traffic; having experience does help...
- How does the setup hold up over time/milage - differential ??? No idea. Unless there is something unique about this standard transmission, I trust it to be ok.

ALTERNATIVE: tow the Smart to the dealer if need to... or have AAA do it at $600 EACH WAY!!
 

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