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Discussion Starter #1
lost communication with gearshift module. 09 smart, runs and drives. sometimes revs then clunks into gear. what do i need to check..??? 156,000 miles....dont wanna let her go.......help is greatly appreciated.....ss
 

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! Try the tranny relearn procedure.
2 R&R and lube the clutch actuator
3 R&R and clean the shift motors, change the tranny fluid too! Lots of info here and at Evilution.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
thnx for reply........i assume the acuator and shift motors are bolted to transaxle..?
 

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thnx for reply........i assume the acuator and shift motors are bolted to transaxle..?
Shift actuator under car, easy access from below. Pair of ramps make is quite easy.
Shift motors on top of motor, below the air intake box, which has to be removed to gain access.
Air box is a pain, I had to cut mine to get it out, which was OK as I trashed it for the Madness air intake pipe instead.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
found a long detailes post about the acuator and shift motors, but the pics dont show anymore..????
 

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Discussion Starter #7
well...tooke over 5 hours to monkey with intake manifold...finally cut it out!!!!....gonna make my own intake tube today.....
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
update.....had to cut out the %$^& air tube/baffles peice of worthless plastic !!! serviced the shift motors, and made my own air intake tube utilizing the original air cleaner box...p.s. used dielectric grease on terminals....used tooooo much, got 3 bars of death !!!! had to use air gun and blow out connections,,,,be wary with that stuff...a little dab will do ya....
 

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Discussion Starter #9
drove car all week, am still get a slight neutral rev , then shift...im thinking i need to fully service the shift acuator...new ones are $500 (as you can see from homeade intake tube...im thrifty) !!! good vid on you tube (mexico)...but very thorough..
 

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Nice work, and good improve on the air intake tube.
I think maybe the clutch actuator cleaning, lubing with white lithium, and reinstall/adjust should take care of that.
Are you also using the Evilution site... excellent info there.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Nice work, and good improve on the air intake tube.
I think maybe the clutch actuator cleaning, lubing with white lithium, and reinstall/adjust should take care of that.
Are you also using the Evilution site... excellent info there.
thnx much, as you can see from pics ,i re used the rubber gasket from airbox to original air tube(now from throttle body to steel tube). , ...ive been researching everywhere,,,,you tube most helpful...there are 3 areas that im going to take apart and clean/lube on the accuator....hope it does the trick too...
 

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Discussion Starter #12
accuator r&r day.....cleaned and lubed all 3 areas....re installed and drove....still has a hiccup. going to run through a few cycles and see if it improves...still wanna change trans fluid (158k miles)......
 

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shouda wouda couda.... would have been real easy to have done that when the gear shift motors were out, just pour into the
cavity until the fluid came out the top fill port...!
Sorry, day late, dollar short on my part.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
i dont have the trans oil yet....debating on the uber the expensive gastrol..or any ag4 grade synthetic.....
 

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Discussion Starter #16
changed trans fluid with the redline mt90.....old original stuff looked pretty good for 158k miles !!....anyway...still getting a lurch in trans in 1st and reverse.......sigh.....im running out of things to try......maybe adjust accuator "in" or "out" ....??????
 

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Here is the evolution procedure
With all 3 bolts loosened, slide the unit towards the centre of the car (to the right).
The actuator will only move about 2mm or 3mm before you feel it hit an obstruction.
Stop pushing the actuator and it will move a fraction back to the left by itself.

Now you have to push the actuator towards the clutch with 50 Newtons of force.
This is the equivelent of hanging a 5kg weight sideways off of the actuator.

Smart have a frame that holds around the actuator and that attaches to a force meter (which looks
like old school luggage scales). The gauge is pulled to 50N and then the bolts are tightened to 10Nm.

The last sentence about tightening the bolts with 50N force applied to the actuator body, well...
I used the TLAR method, and after clutch contact, I pushed it a small amount, about the thickness of
a quarter... and it worked. You may need to experiment with the amount of distance to get it to
work, but hopefully this will help.
 
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