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Replaced the passenger side motor mount... Eliminated all prior vibrations!
3 bolts are E12 star and the 2 bolts at the frame are M16.
Damn. That defeats my prior joke about practically being able to dismantle an entire ForTwo with a T-25 torx head. Haha.

It is surprising, though. Even on a 453... If you see a torx head bolt, it's more than likely T-25.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Was getting TP and supplies. Gentleman was frantically waving... ...he thought I was stealing his car! Minimus and this dude's car are the same year, same trim and same dealership, oh and the same color scheme too!
 

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O.K. replaced the driver side motor mount. The old one fall apart when I took it out... I would recommend every Smart 451 with 150xxx miles to replace all
3 motor mounts.
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This side was more complicated. I had it much easier since I have not the air filter resonator in place... 3 fasteners are E18 star and the
fasteners on the frame are 2 x M16. You need a car jack - and you have to remove the air filter box 2 x T 30 torx head screws.
The disconnecting and connecting of the airbox tube to the outside cold air vent is no fun at all and the airbox is quite a tight fit out and in.
 

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Thanks for sharing the link. Looks like a simple way to get a few extra hp, and clean up the engine compartment at the same time. One can only imagine the engineering time, effort, and money that went into designing and redesigning the sound resonators. Personally, I don’t mind a bit of engine noise. Good way to tell things are running as they should be.
 

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O.K. replaced the driver side motor mount. The old one fall apart when I took it out... I would recommend every Smart 451 with 150xxx miles to replace all
3 motor mounts.

This side was more complicated. I had it much easier since I have not the air filter resonator in place... 3 fasteners are E18 star and the
fasteners on the frame are 2 x M16. You need a car jack - and you have to remove the air filter box 2 x T 30 torx head screws.
The disconnecting and connecting of the airbox tube to the outside cold air vent is no fun at all and the airbox is quite a tight fit out and in.
Thanks for this post seems very doable with a good bit of effort, and looks live very solid results.
 

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Pretty new here but thought I'd chime in. Like many others, the factory under seat sub needed replacing. I've picked up my Smarty as my around town play toy so keeping it fun yet inexpensive is important to me. I've been doing lots to make it my own but the subwoofer needed some priority. It was driving me nuts.

The factory sub was a 5", dual voice coil and pretty poor quality.
VC #1 +Red, -Black
VC #2 +Yellow, -Blue

I found a 6.5", dual VC Pyle on Amazon for about $17.
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The factory enclosure need a bit of cutting to make it fit. The enclosure is vented with a port the sits along side of the speaker opening so the cutting needs to happen off center. There is a contour to the enclosure that leave about a 1/4" gap that needs to be filled. I used an oversize, 1/2" weather stripping, glued in place that made the mounting air tight, firm and sound.
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Very tight fit, but it works and no more horrible fluttering. I forgot to take completed pictures and have already reinstalled. ( I didn't plan on sharing as I thought maybe many have already done this)
 
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