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Finally I replaced the Valve Cover Gasket...



I had 2 oil drips a day for years. Two weeks ago it went up to 5 and went south from there.



The ugly truth was inside the camshaft and valve assembly. On cylinder 2 and 3 was so much sludge and carbon deposits that it blocked partly
the oil drain from cylinder 3 to the sump!


You can see at the valve cover how hot it was at cylinder2 and 3 - it literally baked the oil to the cover!



I cleaned out all the sludge and carbon deposits and flushed the oil system before the oil change.

My exhaust ports looked for 160000 miles O.K..



With the new gasket and permatex oil sealant there are zero oil leaks anymore.

I still can't figure out from where all the sludge and carbon came from. I replaced the oil and filter every year for the last 5 years and use only Mobil 1 full synthetic oil. One possibility is that the previous owner didn't changed the oil or used mineral oil or the catalysator is restricting the exhaust ports from cylinder 2+3, so that these ports are overheating. Happy that I don't have burned exhaust valves and hope I will get a lot more miles added to the 160000 current miles...

I installed as well exhaust headers (I do have already a Stage2 ECU tuning) - I hope it helps to cool down the exhaust ports and my Smart drives better than ever. Since I have the original exhaust the exhaust noise is still super quite.
 

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^ this is why I change the oil at 5000 miles if not sooner.
Sludge is horrible on a engine as you can see and given my 09’s engine looks like new inside I want to keep it that way.
I recently got a 08 with 140854 on the clock and am wondering how well the previous owner did the oil changes(it’s not leaking nor has signs of a previous oil leak so I may be good.
 

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Yes, Canadian market diesel, modified at BRABUS in Germany when new, though it was only a body and interior customization. The dual exhaust is a BRABUS accessory for the diesel with an oxydation catalyst in it. The engine was remapped after I bought it to provide about 61 HP instead of the stock 40.
 

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^ I’ve noticed and I know why it was thanks to gm’s flop of a diesel car that used a gas engine block for the engine.
I do know a few people that would’ve liked to seen it come over as they do like diesels.
 

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Today I received a brand new pair of dust covers for the struts. Mine were missing, if they were ever there at all. It is possible that a dealer mechanic removed them, but it's also possible that the car left Smartville without them in 2009. They snap on over the strut attachment points (under the service flap) to keep dirt and water out. Part #451 323 00 38 about $7 each. Anyone else missing these? Not a critical part, but it bothered me that my car was missing something. (OCD much?) I also replaced my stalk end covers. Probably best to do so while they all the colors are still available! $10 a pair, all today's goodies from dealersalessolutions on eBay.
Gas Circle Button Jewellery Auto part

Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Plant Automotive design
 

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Today I received a brand new pair of dust covers for the struts. Mine were missing, if they were ever there at all. It is possible that a dealer mechanic removed them, but it's also possible that the car left Smartville without them in 2009. They snap on over the strut attachment points (under the service flap) to keep dirt and water out. Part #451 323 00 38 about $7 each. Anyone else missing these? Not a critical part, but it bothered me that my car was missing something. (OCD much?) I also replaced my stalk end covers. Probably best to do so while they all the colors are still available! $10 a pair, all today's goodies from dealersalessolutions on eBay. View attachment 68234
View attachment 68235
Misfitsailor, as far as I know, tube covers were never an OEM product, but many Smart owners have installed aftermarket ones as you have. Personally, I like the looks of having them on and they do seem to cut down on the crud hat gets inside.
 

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Misfitsailor
Tried to remove the bolt for the struts on my 09 and they wouldn’t budge(penetrating oil will be a must)
I used an electric impact wrench, 1/2 drive universal on a long extension. You do have to hold the strut shaft from turning on the other side. Do not try to use the hex slot in the top of the strut, as it can not take the torque. Here is a photo of the special tool that allows you to hold the shaft without damage. See Evilution web site for procedure.
Face Eye Human body Art Artifact

As far as the strut dust covers go, here is the label:
Font Material property Technology Label Rectangle
 

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I’ve used the Smart strut tool, but was woefully disappointed with the performance. I could not get it to tighten enough to prevent slipping. I ended up grinding flats into opposing sides of the shaft just enough to get an open-end wrench on the shaft to get the necessary torque to pull the nut off the top of the strut.
 

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I’ll see what the price is on the tool then go from there.
If I do the slot grinding I’ll have to see if I have something to do it with.(someway the old struts will have to come off in order to get the new ones on and I can finish my air bag conversion)
Edit thanks for the dust cover part number.
 
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