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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have changed the air filter, oil and filter, transmission oil, spark plugs (the old ones were not gapped to specs) and have cleaned the grills in the front of the car for radiator and ac condenser. (I have yet to change the coolant though it's full) We are using 91% octane fuel. (And also plan to learn hypermiling /eco driving techniques)

My next job since the car doesn't have a MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor) is to clean the:

Map Sensor (Mass/Manifold Absolute Pressure.) It monitors the boost and vacuum of the air inlet manifold. What Happens If It Is Faulty? The engine may not boost properly or may go into safe mode. and the IAT Sensor (Inlet Air Temperature) It monitors the temperature in the air inlet manifold. What Happens If It Is Faulty? May run badly, could run very rich or lean, engine could stall.

Info from Evilution - Smart Car Encyclopaedia (Check out that awesome page for More sensors you may need/want to check and clean!)

Can you guys think of any other parts that are accessible to me I can take apart clean and put back together? I understand the fuel filter is not owner accessible.

Also what about Fuel Additives? Many people swear by products like Marvel Mystery Oil and others think it's not needed if good fuel is used but I just wanna be sure because I have no clue what the previous owners used in the car or how much carbon may be built up. Thank you!
 

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Run some fuel injector cleaner, at the next fill up. Seaform, STP, Lucus, Gumout, BG 44k, Techron etc.

Make sure your tire pressure is correct.

Drop in a BMC engine air filter.
66098



Marvel mystery oil, it’s good for Ford model T‘s. I would never use that in a modern engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Run some fuel injector cleaner, at the next fill up. Seaform, STP, Lucus, Gumout, BG 44k, Techron etc.

Make sure your tire pressure is correct.

Drop in a BMC engine air filter.
Marvel mystery oil, it’s good for Ford model T‘s. I would never use that in a modern engine.
The BMC will have to wait till the next filter change because I already just changed it. I have heard bad things about K&N. I think I want to try STP Ultra 5 in 1 and use it sparingly like once every 3 or 4 fill ups. I understand some of these clean too well which can cause problems too. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Get a ScanGauge II and Enjoy your hypermiling.
Looking into it. Will the ScanGauge 2 tell me anything about the airbag warning light? My nephew has a 2000 dollar star scan tool and his didn't find any airbag codes even though my light is on. I know this means the whole airbag system is shut down ATM but the seatbelts work. Heck I'm old enough to remember when seatbelts were not required so not having airbags doesn't really bother me. It's not illegal to not have them and I figure if it's my time to go the good Lord knows what he's doing. Still I'd like to get the light off If I can so any remaining airbags will work. I know I can trick them out with a resistor but I'd want to nail down exactly which airbag is causing the problem. Thanks. Impressive mileage you got there !
 

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Looking into it. Will the ScanGauge 2 tell me anything about the airbag warning light? My nephew has a 2000 dollar star scan tool and his didn't find any airbag codes even though my light is on. I know this means the whole airbag system is shut down ATM but the seatbelts work. Heck I'm old enough to remember when seatbelts were not required so not having airbags doesn't really bother me. It's not illegal to not have them and I figure if it's my time to go the good Lord knows what he's doing. Still I'd like to get the light off If I can so any remaining airbags will work. I know I can trick them out with a resistor but I'd want to nail down exactly which airbag is causing the problem. Thanks. Impressive mileage you got there !
I would doubt the ScanGuage would do more than basic code scans and resets. Last time my airbag light came on was when my daughter who is much shorter than me moved up the seat and disconnected a wire under the seat. Once the plug was reconnected light out issue solve.
 

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Most people will get mid-30s for fuel economy.

My personal best was 58 mpg for a 400-ish mile stretch from Indiana to Tennessee. Followed behind a school bus RV conversion that was doing 60 mph the whole way. I usually average about 42 mpg. My only fuel economy modification is an intake resonator delete.

Unfortunately, you'll need something like a STAR diagnostics machine to know why that airbag light is on.
 

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I only base my fuel economy, tank to tank fill up. The best for my 2008 451 ever, was 44 mpg 93 octane. Across Iowa, to Illinois. I-88. Pretty flat highway. AC on, two people. Filled the smart car up, in Des Moines Iowa, then drove to at the Dekab, oasis Illinois. To be filled again, running on fumes.

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Our old smart service manager, owned 3 smart cars. He recommended changing the manual transmission gear oil. These are the products he recommended. I changed mine, in less then 30 minutes. Pretty easy proceed. I used the Royal Purple.

66115
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just today the service advisor at Mercedes of Knoxville told me the transmission oil doesn't need to be changed as it is good for the life of the car
I have heard it's not for the life of the car but for the life of the transmission. I have heard they consider this 60,000 miles. I don't remember where I heard it from, I watch tons of Smart car videos. The car has had 5 previous owners so I thought it prudent to change, fix, clean everything I can not knowing how the other owners treated the car. Changing the transmission oil was so super easy and cheap, I didn't mind doing it at all. Just yesterday I found a toggle switch in the glove box with an arrow written in marks-a-lot pointing up. It doesn't appear to be a kill switch and I can't find anything it might effect. Who knows what those owners did! LOL
 

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Looking into it. Will the ScanGauge 2 tell me anything about the airbag warning light? My nephew has a 2000 dollar star scan tool and his didn't find any airbag codes even though my light is on. I know this means the whole airbag system is shut down ATM but the seatbelts work. Heck I'm old enough to remember when seatbelts were not required so not having airbags doesn't really bother me. It's not illegal to not have them and I figure if it's my time to go the good Lord knows what he's doing. Still I'd like to get the light off If I can so any remaining airbags will work. I know I can trick them out with a resistor but I'd want to nail down exactly which airbag is causing the problem. Thanks. Impressive mileage you got there !
You can use this scanner as I did and It turned my airbag light off. You can find it cheaper at ebay, maybe 30 bucks. Just when scanning the bar code scan the one on the side of the scanner
 

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I have changed the air filter, oil and filter, transmission oil, spark plugs (the old ones were not gapped to specs) and have cleaned the grills in the front of the car for radiator and ac condenser. (I have yet to change the coolant though it's full) We are using 91% octane fuel. (And also plan to learn hypermiling /eco driving techniques)

My next job since the car doesn't have a MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor) is to clean the:

Map Sensor (Mass/Manifold Absolute Pressure.) It monitors the boost and vacuum of the air inlet manifold. What Happens If It Is Faulty? The engine may not boost properly or may go into safe mode. and the IAT Sensor (Inlet Air Temperature) It monitors the temperature in the air inlet manifold. What Happens If It Is Faulty? May run badly, could run very rich or lean, engine could stall.

Info from Evilution - Smart Car Encyclopaedia (Check out that awesome page for More sensors you may need/want to check and clean!)

Can you guys think of any other parts that are accessible to me I can take apart clean and put back together? I understand the fuel filter is not owner accessible.

Also what about Fuel Additives? Many people swear by products like Marvel Mystery Oil and others think it's not needed if good fuel is used but I just wanna be sure because I have no clue what the previous owners used in the car or how much carbon may be built up. Thank you!
turn off the a/c, that's worth 3 to 5 mpg

Bill
 

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I have changed the air filter, oil and filter, transmission oil, spark plugs (the old ones were not gapped to specs) and have cleaned the grills in the front of the car for radiator and ac condenser. (I have yet to change the coolant though it's full) We are using 91% octane fuel. (And also plan to learn hypermiling /eco driving techniques)

My next job since the car doesn't have a MAF (Mass Airflow Sensor) is to clean the:

Map Sensor (Mass/Manifold Absolute Pressure.) It monitors the boost and vacuum of the air inlet manifold. What Happens If It Is Faulty? The engine may not boost properly or may go into safe mode. and the IAT Sensor (Inlet Air Temperature) It monitors the temperature in the air inlet manifold. What Happens If It Is Faulty? May run badly, could run very rich or lean, engine could stall.

Info from Evilution - Smart Car Encyclopaedia (Check out that awesome page for More sensors you may need/want to check and clean!)

Can you guys think of any other parts that are accessible to me I can take apart clean and put back together? I understand the fuel filter is not owner accessible.

Also what about Fuel Additives? Many people swear by products like Marvel Mystery Oil and others think it's not needed if good fuel is used but I just wanna be sure because I have no clue what the previous owners used in the car or how much carbon may be built up. Thank you!
WOW~ Do you live near me? I need someone like you to help me with my Smart! You are a keeper! Actually, I'm going to Smart Madness for an appointment to do the 50-60k check and do all the necessary things you just described here. My car has 52k on it, but the engine has 45k. It blew at 7,500 and got a new one. However, since I change oil & filters more often than normal, I have decided to do the 60k stuff. Your responses here did remind me to check to see if my Scan Gauge needs updated. Thanks! Diane
 

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I also only calculate tank to tank, in my opinion it's more accurate view of actual performance. My best thus far was last year at an average of 47.7mpg over 8.08 gallons.

My average for the two and a half years of owning it has been 43.09mpg
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
WOW~ Do you live near me? I need someone like you to help me with my Smart! You are a keeper! Actually, I'm going to Smart Madness for an appointment to do the 50-60k check and do all the necessary things you just described here. My car has 52k on it, but the engine has 45k. It blew at 7,500 and got a new one. However, since I change oil & filters more often than normal, I have decided to do the 60k stuff. Your responses here did remind me to check to see if my Scan Gauge needs updated. Thanks! Diane
I'm in New Orleans. I have read people mention taking the car to Smart Madness. I didn't know what it was, thought it was a Smart Car owner gathering like the motorcycles do in Sturgis South Dakoda. <-- that would be So Cool. Found out it was a popular Smart repair shop and store in Austin Texas and Los Angeles California. Visiting Smart Madness may be a cool road trip I'll have to plan for this Summer. Lydia (That's our Smart Fortwo's name) I'm sure will enjoy stretching her legs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I also only calculate tank to tank, in my opinion it's more accurate view of actual performance. My best thus far was last year at an average of 47.7mpg over 8.08 gallons.

My average for the two and a half years of owning it has been 43.09mpg
I'll be sure to figure my mileage by the tank then. Thank you. Before I filled up from a half of tank I put in 4 oz of STP Ultra 5 in 1, in which a 12oz bottle treats 35 gallons. The bottle cost me 10 dollars which is a great deal because I can use it 3 times. I don't wanna over do it (and I wish I had a telescoping camera to look inside the engine) but I figure 4 oz isn't that much so I'll add another 4oz every other fill up. I'll calculate the mileage at each fill up to see if the STP is making a difference.
 
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