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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, So I'm looking to buy an HID kit, but everyone says only WHERE they bought it. . . . and not what Kit they specifically bought.

I Looked through this thread here BY Braddman:
*SPECIAL THANKS* to: Braddman
For the helpful instructions on installing the HID kit, ByTheWay the prices have gone down since his post, not $85.00, they are about $35.00 US Shipped.

http://www.smartcarofamerica.com/forums/f19/smart-451-h7-h-i-d-installation-step-step-instructions-pictures-12983/

Some helpful information, but which one do I get?

I want to know what kits you bought off ebay that have worked. Right now, the current market price for them is, $34.00-$40.00 US on ebay. I would like to purchase one of these but, do not know which one I should get.

The Seller on Ebay that was referred to by the person in the above link, was this ebay seller right here:
choi-q | eBay


So, do I need to worry about electrical as well?
I would like someone of greater knowledge to confirm these questions I have:
1. The HID kit needs to be 35watts? correct?
2. If I flash my high beams, when HIDs are only hooked up to low beams, will . my low beam HIDs burnt out?-( is this a rumor or fact?)


Whenever I do get my HIDs I will post this information, in specifics, and pictures as well. Just like Braddman.

ByTheWay: my Car is a 2008 smart ForTwo Passion, if that makes a difference in electrical wiring Specifications for what HID kit I need.
:cool:

Thank you, to all who contribute to this thread!

Sincerely,

-SCB
SmartCarBaller
 

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This:
AC Digital Slim HID Xenon Kit VVME 9006 H1 H3 H4 H7 H11 | eBay is the HID kit you want. 35W H7 kit, 5000K color. I bought mine over a year ago, and love them. No issues, no flicker, they just work. 5000K is whiter than halogens, but not blue enough to draw attention to yourself. Make sure you buy a VVME brand kit. They seem to be the best. Also get the slim ballast, they are digital and don't cause radio issues.

Don't buy the 55W or higher sets, they will blind the people coming at you. 35W is plenty bright enough to see what is ahead of you.

To answer your questions:

1. yes 35W
2. No they won't burn out. On the smart, the lows stay on all the time.

Only mod you need to do is to cut a 1" hole in the rubber cover to insert the grommet for the HID wiring through.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Hey, WhiteNBlack08,

Thanks Brah, for the the insight. I will be purchasing that kit then! Did you have to mod any of the wires? Also, did you place your slim ballasts on the top of the front: left & right Wheel wells, like everyone else with 3m tape? Or, did have problems with the HID bulb being level, opposed to each other?

Thanks again!

-SCB
SmartCarBaller
 

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Pay close attention to two things: Color temperature, and alignment.

Like WhiteNBlack08 says, no need to go higher than 5,000°K, but by the same token, don't go lower than 4,300°K. That temp range produces the most lumens for your loot. Colder than 5K, and you start losing useable light output into the blue end of the visible-light spectrum, and your car looks like a riced-out piece of crap. Warmer than 4.3K, though, and you also lose output into the red end of the spectrum, with no real advantage.

35 watts of arc-discharge light is *PLENTY*. No need to go up to 55W capsules, however you do need to recognize that the H7 projectors in our cars are not designed for arc lights; they are designed for H7 *incandescent* lamps. If you're lucky, the HID kit you buy has the arc gap in the capsule located in exactly the same spot, in relation to the mounting base, as a standard H7 incandescent lamp locates its filament. That spot is the focal point of the projector, and if the arc gap is precisely in that spot, all of the light produced by the high-voltage discharge arc will be accurately projected out of the front lens and down the road. If the arc is off by as little as a hair's-breadth, light is lost in the projector assembly, and the output is reduced. By all accounts, the VVME kits have very high quality arc capsules, and have the discharge arc gap very precisely located in exactly the right spot to take advantage of an H7 reflector or projector.

What that means is you will be throwing all sorts of light down the road, which means you will have to be triple-dog careful with your headlamp aiming and adjustment, so that you don't go down the road blinding oncoming traffic. It's better to have your new HID worm-burners aimed a bit too low and lose light, rather than have them too high, blinding the guy about to hit you head-on in his H1 Hummer. If you don't know how to aim your headlights, better learn that trick *BEFORE* you put a pair of 5K°K Light-Cannons in the front end of your car.

I suspect you'll be happy with the VVME lights. I don't know from experience, as I have the equally-perfect (but very expensive) Smart Madness 4,300°K HID kit in my dipped-beams, rather than the VVME kit.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Pay close attention to two things: Color temperature, and alignment.

Like WhiteNBlack08 says, no need to go higher than 5,000°K, but by the same token, don't go lower than 4,300°K. That temp range produces the most lumens for your loot. Colder than 5K, and you start losing useable light output into the blue end of the visible-light spectrum, and your car looks like a riced-out piece of crap. Warmer than 4.3K, though, and you also lose output into the red end of the spectrum, with no real advantage.

35 watts of arc-discharge light is *PLENTY*. No need to go up to 55W capsules, however you do need to recognize that the H7 projectors in our cars are not designed for arc lights; they are designed for H7 *incandescent* lamps. If you're lucky, the HID kit you buy has the arc gap in the capsule located in exactly the same spot, in relation to the mounting base, as a standard H7 incandescent lamp locates its filament. That spot is the focal point of the projector, and if the arc gap is precisely in that spot, all of the light produced by the high-voltage discharge arc will be accurately projected out of the front lens and down the road. If the arc is off by as little as a hair's-breadth, light is lost in the projector assembly, and the output is reduced. By all accounts, the VVME kits have very high quality arc capsules, and have the discharge arc gap very precisely located in exactly the right spot to take advantage of an H7 reflector or projector.

What that means is you will be throwing all sorts of light down the road, which means you will have to be triple-dog careful with your headlamp aiming and adjustment, so that you don't go down the road blinding oncoming traffic. It's better to have your new HID worm-burners aimed a bit too low and lose light, rather than have them too high, blinding the guy about to hit you head-on in his H1 Hummer. If you don't know how to aim your headlights, better learn that trick *BEFORE* you put a pair of 5K°K Light-Cannons in the front end of your car.

I suspect you'll be happy with the VVME lights. I don't know from experience, as I have the equally-perfect (but very expensive) Smart Madness 4,300°K HID kit in my dipped-beams, rather than the VVME kit.
I like the ricer Look, I was considering 6000k would that look okay? not to blue but enough so you can tell I have HIDS. what do you suggest? Yes I will be purchasing the VVME Kit suggested to me by: WhiteNBlack08

Sincerely,
-SCB
SmartCarBaller
 

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I like the ricer Look, I was considering 6000k would that look okay? not to blue but enough so you can tell I have HIDS. what do you suggest? Yes I will be purchasing the VVME Kit suggested to me by: WhiteNBlack08

Sincerely,
-SCB
SmartCarBaller

I definitely wouldn't go any higher than that. Remember, the higher the K value, the more definition you lose. Blues are tougher for the human eye to distinguish.
 

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take a look at hidlook.com I have just ordered a kit from them. They sell an AC ballast, not DC like most vendors and after a lot of internet searching, I found that the AC Ballast is supposed ot be much better for the bulbs life and more dependable.
 

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I got the VVME too and it's been in daily use (including use as DRL's) for 3 years now without a problem. No mods of any wires needed, just a larger hole in the back of the rubber cap over the headlight bulb. This thread discusses them and the various places and ways people have mounted the balasts:



would you happen to have any pics of the lights? also what color temp did you get?
 

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I got the 5000k but never tried to take any photos. Against a light colored wall you can see a slight hint of blue but otherwise they just look white.
 

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5000k VVME's

The pic through the windshield is against a tan wall with white trim. If you look to the lower left you can see the touch of blue in the small section of white trim on the wall.
 

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I like the ricer Look, I was considering 6000k would that look okay?

Personally, I don't think it looks good, but if that's what you like, then go for it.

I wouldn't go any higher than 6,000°K, and really, you might consider warming up to 5.5K for safety's sake - you can see in white light a *lot* better than you can in blue-white light, and let's break it down: headlights are there for one reason - so *you* can see where you're going, not so you can be seen.

But it's your car, so if that's what you want, have at it. Don't go any bluer, though; that just looks stupid.
 

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I went with the 4300K 35W digital ballast VVME's. Cheap, and they work. Don't get the analog, unless you have the hockey puck, in which case you might have better luck with them. The digital ballasts are less prone to failure, and VVME's support kind of sucks, but that's to be expected at the price.
Mine: HID's - Imgur

AndyT might want to weigh in here- he went with the 6000K SmartMadness kit recently, but ended up ripping half his front end apart to put them in so he could have room to work.

Personally, I wouldn't go higher than 4300k. Much brighter than incandescents, completely white light, and nobody hates me for blue headlights. Most OEM HID headlights are 4300 or 5000k. Also, for the love of the flying spaghetti monster, properly aim your headlights so you don't blind oncoming cars.
 

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Same here, 4300K VVME kit with SilverStar Ultra high beam H7s. Had them in for a week or so and they are great. Some of the police look for the blue color on older cars or cars they know didn't come from the factory with HIDs. My son was stopped by a State Trooper for blue color HIDs in his older Golf.
 

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I must note that last time I ordered replacement bulbs, they sent me wrong ones. They asked me to pay shipping for the replacement of the replacement set (after I send them photo of me cutting wires on the wrong set). VVME included shipping slip for $70 "Power supply component" on the Free Replacement Item. This resulted in $25 custom fees. At the end of it all I have exchanged 15 emails with them and 4 bulbs costed me $90 USD.
 

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It seems there is a lot of misinformation on this forum about HID lighting... and it's really not just in this forum but in many that I've participated in over the years. Hopefully this information will help... further education on the subject of HID lighting can be acquired from the forums on hidplanet.com

The "Blue / Purple" colored light that people generally assume to be associated with HID is in fact not a product of the HID technology, rather it is an optical & color refracting affect created by the projector lens and the projector's internal cutoff shield. All OEM (BMW, Mercedes, Porsche, etc.) HID bulb's are (yellowish-white in color) 4300K (because it produces the most lumens in the Kelvin (color) Spectrum).

So, if the color in the OEM HID equipped vehicles is off-white (white with a hint of yellow) and the light looks Blue / Purple to oncoming traffic... then what creates the Blue / Purple color? The answer is the projector lens and cutoff shield refracting the colors within the available spectrum produced by the 4300K OEM HID bulb. It creates a blue / purple cutoff line. When the headlights are aimed correctly, this blue/purple cutoff line is what oncoming traffic will see... not the off-white 4300K OEM bulb color.

When people install higher than 6000K HID bulbs on a car that already has projectors, it does not really accomplish anything other than changing the color of the light that you see projected on the road and making your car look like all the other imitation HID ricer's on the road. If you want a quality OEM HID projector headlight system, simply install the 4300K HID kit into your factory projector headlight. It's the best you'll be able to get without having to do a full blown OEM HID Projector retrofit.

When it comes to 5000K and 6000K HID bulbs, the original intensions for these bulbs by the OEM manufacturers Sylvania-OSRAM and Philips was to be as a replacement bulb for color matching to an older bulb. As HID bulbs age, within about a years time (depending on frequency of usage) they all color-shift from there original color (4300K) to a slightly higher color (5000K to 6000K). Hence the reason there are OSRAM and Philips 5000K and 6000K bulbs available for the OEM HID market. IMO, since bulbs are much cheaper now, it's better to just replace both bulbs at the same time if one burns out.

BTW, the same color-shift that happens on OEM HID bulbs will affect aftermarket rebased HID Kit bulbs. So, those who buy bulbs that start out at 4300K will eventually have bulbs that color-shift to 5000K and then to 6000K before they reach the end of their expected lifespan. If you start out with a bulb that is 5000K or 6000K, the bulbs will also color-shift +1000K to +2000K over their expected lifespan. The end result is reduced lumens and a more blue / purple color over the lifespan of the bulb.

Aiming your headlights lower than the factory setting (just because you have HID installed). This strictly depends on whether or not the factory correctly aimed the headlights beforehand. If they were improperly aimed, then yes it's recommended to properly (or professionally) aim the headlights. There are many tutorials on the subject, forums at hidplanet.com can help you with this... a google search can help too.

Just because you've installed HID into your Projector headlights, does not mean you need to aim them lower than the factory setting or the correctly aimed setting. A projector is designed to have a cutoff shield where by the light is prevented from projecting above the cutoff line. As long as your lower step of the cutoff line isn't above the average trunk height of the car that is 20ft in front of you, then you are not blinding the car in front of you or oncoming traffic... in fact, once the headlights are properly aimed, the lower step in the cutoff line should be no higher than just above the top of the rear license plate or bumper on an average car that is approximately 20ft in front of you.
 
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