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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have two Bluetooth based OBD2 Scan Tools and neither will work on either of my two Smart (451) ED vehicles.

I read a thread on this forum that recommended the Autel MaxiDiag Elite MD802 but the thread only had two posts and it wasn't clear how effective the Scan Tool was or if it would work on the 453 version of the Smart ED. Here's a link to that thread - (1) Best OBD2 reader for Electric or regular smarts | Smart Car of America Forum

Any recommendations for a Scan Tool for the Smart (451) ED - I'd love to hear some feedback from someone who owns both the Scan Tool and the car.
 

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It depends on what youo want to do. If you simply want to check stats of the HV system and the battery, you can make your own DIY battery tool.

For a deeper look in to the smart, I use a Mercedes Xentry tool. It's a hassle to set it up, but when you're done, you've got a tool which is also used by the official workshops.

Till now I haven't had any luck with 3rd party tools. Some get a few codes, but nothing can do simply everything. They mostly get all the coded, the smart electric drive and EQ have got in commen with the standard gas smart cars. But it's getting unreliable when you have to do anything ED / EQ specific.
 
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@sokoloff and I also make that DIY tool available for sale if you don't feel capable or interested to make it yourself. (I've also happily helped a couple of members who felt like they wanted to DIY the tool but got stuck somewhere along the way.) As MineCooky says, it gives you information on the HV system and battery, but is not a full service tool by any means.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for both replies.

At this point all I think I need is a simple OBD2 tool that would allow me to read and erase codes. I am intrigued by both battery tools mentioned above and will have to look into them further.

Thanks again for the replies and I wish you both a great week.
 

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Autel has detailed vehicle compatibility on their web site, click through to the specs and/or pdf's - I believe the autel Elite MD802 may not be a good recommendation based on very briefly looking into it a long time ago. However if you're not just looking for cell voltage, but error codes--for a CHEAP obd2 bluetooth tool, the autel ht200 & ap200 (same thing) I believe is the closest you can get -- it is a "single brand" bluetooth tool compatible with the~2014-2016 electric drive ed3 including READING codes in most or all "groups" and clearing (maybe) some codes but definitley not all..... This is a very small volume production vehicle, I don't believe you will find what you are looking for via obd2, even for some scan tools that do mention the "electric drive" model, like icarsoft, ---- at least it is very unlikely you will find a "simple" obd2 tool that will clear/erase ALL codes .... As far as I know, to clear/erase ALL codes you need Xentry / multiplexer type setup as Minecooky says which is about $600+ minimum to get set up for the cheapest clone version, on the slow boat from China. Plus some advanced set up and time invested. Most good independent MB shops may/should have the official version $$$$$.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Autel has detailed vehicle compatibility on their web site, click through to the specs and/or pdf's - I believe the autel Elite MD802 may not be a good recommendation based on very briefly looking into it a long time ago. However if you're not just looking for cell voltage, but error codes--for a CHEAP obd2 bluetooth tool, the autel hd200 & ap200 (same thing) I believe is the closest you can get -- it is a "single brand" bluetooth tool compatible with the~2014-2016 electric drive ed3 including READING codes in most or all "groups" and clearing (maybe) some codes but definitley not all..... This is a very small volume production vehicle, I don't believe you will find what you are looking for via obd2, even for some scan tools that do mention the "electric drive" model, like icarsoft, ---- at least it is very unlikely you will find a "simple" obd2 tool that will clear/erase ALL codes .... As far as I know, to clear/erase ALL codes you need Xentry / multiplexer type setup as Minecooky says which is about $600+ minimum to get set up for the cheapest clone version, on the slow boat from China. Plus some advanced set up and time invested. Most good independent MB shops may/should have the official version $$$$$.
Thanks for replying to this thread - your timing is perfect as my "bricked" Smart Car is about to become my next project.

To the extent that all I want to do at this point is read codes you're saying that the Autel AP200M would suit my needs? I just checked the Autel site for "Vehicle Coverage" and noticed that several systems/errors unique to the ED vehicle were covered. When I searched for Autel AP200 the AP200M was the model that I found - here's a link - 2020NEW! Autel MaxiAP AP200M OBD2 Scanner Bluetooth Diagnostic Code Reader Tool | eBay

If I could get an OBDII device that could read codes on my 2015 Smart ED and only spend $59 - that would be awesome.

Thanks again for your information and I hope you have a great week.
 

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When you open the big batt be sure NOT to send any current thru that little orange module which is expensive and blows easily. Buy 'easily' I mean it does happen on a regular basis and is moaned about in these pages. :cry:

Connect directly to each of the three modules or 2 at a time, or 3 at a time, but never go thru the buss bars or this module. And only use a current-limited power supply (low current !!!) to do the charging.
VR
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
When you open the big batt be sure NOT to send any current thru that little orange module which is expensive and blows easily. Buy 'easily' I mean it does happen on a regular basis and is moaned about in these pages. :cry:

Connect directly to each of the three modules or 2 at a time, or 3 at a time, but never go thru the buss bars or this module. And only use a current-limited power supply (low current !!!) to do the charging.
VR
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Thanks for the helpful information.

I will probably look at my "bricked" 451 in the next week or two. If I get lucky and it's an easy fix I'll continue on but if the failure is due to the HV battery it will likely be a long time until I make any repairs. I need a better workspace to take the HV battery out and do a tear down. If I ever get to that stage I'll create a new thread here looking for more helpful advice.

Thanks again for the information and I hope you have a great weekend.
 

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I recently got a Mucar V06 and purchased the Smart software update for it. I was able to reset the HV System --> Workshop error I've had for several months as well as the airbag error I've had for over a year. It allows you to go into and reset errors in many systems in the car (SAM / ESP / ESM /PTCU / IC / SRS / AC / / BMS / SG-EM / OBC3KW / OBC22KW). It even allows you send codes to turn on / off systems to test them. Nearest dealer for me is a couple hour drive (with the Smart on a trailer) so I've been looking for a scanner to handle the eccentric parts of the Smart EV that most can't handle. I've had the 12 volt battery discharge multiple times in the past two years triggering all kinds of errors that I've just had to live with. Not any more!
 

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I got it off Amazon for $419. Seems to be a newer model available (CS90) which doesn't have Blue Tooth but still has the same services for $295. You can look at all their models at mucarco.com. I have been looking for a long time since my EV seems to have a very random current draw that drops the battery to as low as 5+ volts overnight on rare occasions. One of the error codes I found was due to a module getting below 7.9 V which seems to trigger some of the more severe error codes. I tend to leave a two amp 12 v charger connected overnight now just in case.
 

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I put a motorcycle type charging cable with a two pin quick connect on the battery and run a 25 ft extension under the carpet to the trunk area and coil the extra up and lay on the carpet. I drop it out the hatch and connect the charger when I get home. Works well except for the time I forgot to unplug it and drove over it snagging the extension cable on a tire .....
 

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I didn't pay attention to the codes - I just sent a reset command to the SAM/ESP/SRS/ESM/PTCU/BMS modules one at a time to see if the errors they showed could be reset in the modules. I was able to clear the errors except in the ESM (B1669) and the PTCU (P0187). My only interest at that moment was to clear the workshop message from the screen.
 

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I didn't pay attention to the codes - I just sent a reset command to the SAM/ESP/SRS/ESM/PTCU/BMS modules one at a time to see if the errors they showed could be reset in the modules. I was able to clear the errors except in the ESM (B1669) and the PTCU (P0187). My only interest at that moment was to clear the workshop message from the screen.
Was the $49.95 Smart car package required to clear those codes?
I just bought a Mucar V06 and am about to try to clear the HV System -> Workshop code. I have some other codes too, like Drive System Off, and before it was saying Eng Restart Not Poss, so we will see. I was planning to start by simply clearing codes, but it sounds like you sent commands to modules which might be some of what you get with that $50 package.

I would really appreciate hearing a bit more about your experience, as I am a total newbie and have never even used a scan tool or an OBD2 port before!
 

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I can't say whether the Smart Car package was required or not as the first thing I did was to purchase the Smart update as well as the Ford update. It may be the updates are for certain models after the initial warranty period is up. I was able to download every model they listed (until I used up all the internal memory storage) right after I bought it and purchased the Smart/Ford updates. I did not try to hook it up to any vehicle other than the Smart and a Ford Transit van.

I had the HV System > Workshop error for 8 months and there is no dealer in my area. I hooked it up and scanned for errors (found 7 or 8) and started going through and resetting them one at a time. I was able to clear some random errors I was unaware of, a seat belt system error (from when I removed the passenger seat) and ultimately the HV System > Workshop error. I didn't write down the error codes (or even save them - found the Mucar V06 can save states later for reference) as I am a little impatient and wanted to see if the Mucar would ultimately fix my issues. Fortunately, there were no hardware issues, just error codes triggered by low voltages from the 12 V battery. I've had the 12V battery drain as low as 3.5 volts at one point. That triggered the last round of errors. Other times when It only got down to 8 volts or so It didn't trip the HV Workshop error.

The Mucar web site list 28 systems that it can check, but the HV battery is not one I have found a way to look at. The Bluetooth interface is pretty handy not having a cord to deal with and the BT module stores in a slot in the main housing when not being used so it doesn't get lost or misplaced.
 

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I can't say whether the Smart Car package was required or not as the first thing I did was to purchase the Smart update as well as the Ford update. It may be the updates are for certain models after the initial warranty period is up. I was able to download every model they listed (until I used up all the internal memory storage) right after I bought it and purchased the Smart/Ford updates. I did not try to hook it up to any vehicle other than the Smart and a Ford Transit van.

I had the HV System > Workshop error for 8 months and there is no dealer in my area. I hooked it up and scanned for errors (found 7 or 8) and started going through and resetting them one at a time. I was able to clear some random errors I was unaware of, a seat belt system error (from when I removed the passenger seat) and ultimately the HV System > Workshop error. I didn't write down the error codes (or even save them - found the Mucar V06 can save states later for reference) as I am a little impatient and wanted to see if the Mucar would ultimately fix my issues. Fortunately, there were no hardware issues, just error codes triggered by low voltages from the 12 V battery. I've had the 12V battery drain as low as 3.5 volts at one point. That triggered the last round of errors. Other times when It only got down to 8 volts or so It didn't trip the HV Workshop error.

The Mucar web site list 28 systems that it can check, but the HV battery is not one I have found a way to look at. The Bluetooth interface is pretty handy not having a cord to deal with and the BT module stores in a slot in the main housing when not being used so it doesn't get lost or misplaced.
Great write-up! Based on what you have said, I will go ahead and run the Mucar before buying the Smart package and also make sure to save state once it has diagnosed the errors. Just finished the tutorial on using it, so next is to hook it up for the first time today. My battery never got as low as yours - 11.8v was the lowest I think. The HV System > Workshop error came on a few months ago I believe after going over a pothole, but like in your case, it let me continue to drive it. After going over another pothole a month and a half ago, displayed the error again, beeped non-stop, though drove just like normal, and when I finally got home and shut it off, it essentially immobilized it and has not been able to drive since then. I guess we will see what this thing can do.

Thanks again for sharing your experience. I'll post a follow up once I have more info.
 

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Great write-up! Based on what you have said, I will go ahead and run the Mucar before buying the Smart package and also make sure to save state once it has diagnosed the errors. Just finished the tutorial on using it, so next is to hook it up for the first time today. My battery never got as low as yours - 11.8v was the lowest I think. The HV System > Workshop error came on a few months ago I believe after going over a pothole, but like in your case, it let me continue to drive it. After going over another pothole a month and a half ago, displayed the error again, beeped non-stop, though drove just like normal, and when I finally got home and shut it off, it essentially immobilized it and has not been able to drive since then. I guess we will see what this thing can do.

Thanks again for sharing your experience. I'll post a follow up once I have more info.
If your issues happen from running over potholes, you might want to check wiring harnesses for chafing. There are some who had problems with chafing in the wire bundles around the cargo area (try searching on wire chafing) and I have gone and wrapped the bundles in the cargo wall area with a plastic spiral wrap to prevent any wires from eventually grounding to the chassis.
 
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