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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings,

Still learning about my 2013 Smart ED. So far I love it. However, I don't seem to be able to get higher than 2.9 miles/kwh.

In my area (Bay Area, Ca), we pay an overage of $.25 for every kwh at ChargePoint chargers (where I do must of the charging).

By the math.. $.25 = 2.9 miles, then $3.00 (average gas price) = about 34.8 miles per gallon. Which seems to be pretty bad. Several of my friends first generation leafs all seems to get over 4+ miles per kwh. Is it just my driving?

Thanks,

Fq2255
 

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Greetings,

Still learning about my 2013 Smart ED. So far I love it. However, I don't seem to be able to get higher than 2.9 miles/kwh.

In my area (Bay Area, Ca), we pay an overage of $.25 for every kwh at ChargePoint chargers (where I do must of the charging).

By the math.. $.25 = 2.9 miles, then $3.00 (average gas price) = about 34.8 miles per gallon. Which seems to be pretty bad. Several of my friends first generation leafs all seems to get over 4+ miles per kwh. Is it just my driving?

Thanks,

Fq2255
Try resetting your trip odometers, then take a drive without stopping and idling. You should be able to achieve better. What's your eco score?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
My eco meter has always been low because I tend to drive aggressively. However, my miles per Kwh is still low according to the computer even if I drive it like a grandma. The 2.9 miles per kwh that I am reporting is not based on the computer. I came up with that number based on the distance that I drive divided by the kwh reported when I charge the batter to full from ChargePoint.

Thanks!
 

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My eco meter has always been low because I tend to drive aggressively. However, my miles per Kwh is still low according to the computer even if I drive it like a grandma. The 2.9 miles per kwh that I am reporting is not based on the computer. I came up with that number based on the distance that I drive divided by the kwh reported when I charge the batter to full from ChargePoint.

Thanks!
So how much driving distance can you get if you go from 100% to, say, 20%?

Assuming the state of charge meter is linear (it's close enough), using 80% SOC is 14.08 kWh, which at 2.9 miles per kWh means you should get about 40.8 miles when you hit 20%. Is that what happens?

Sent from my SM-T813 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So how much driving distance can you get if you go from 100% to, say, 20%?

Assuming the state of charge meter is linear (it's close enough), using 80% SOC is 14.08 kWh, which at 2.9 miles per kWh means you should get about 40.8 miles when you hit 20%. Is that what happens?

Sent from my SM-T813 using Tapatalk
I have never gone down that low. However, I can confirm that my daily commute is about 15 miles round trip. My daily charge to full takes about 5.5 kwh, which comes out to be exactly 2.9 miles per kwh.
 

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I have never gone down that low. However, I can confirm that my daily commute is about 15 miles round trip. My daily charge to full takes about 5.5 kwh, which comes out to be exactly 2.9 miles per kwh.
There are losses in the charging process - just because 5.5 kWh went through the meter doesn't mean all of that goes into the battery. Charging may only be about 80% efficient or thereabouts.

What does the state of charge meter read after your daily 15 mile commute, assuming you started from 100%?

Sent from my SM-T813 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #7
There are losses in the charging process - just because 5.5 kWh went through the meter doesn't mean all of that goes into the battery. Charging may only be about 80% efficient or thereabouts.

What does the state of charge meter read after your daily 15 mile commute, assuming you started from 100%?

Sent from my SM-T813 using Tapatalk
My SOC meter reads a little above 70% after 15 miles commute. Thanks!
 

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My SOC meter reads a little above 70% after 15 miles commute. Thanks!
So, let's say it's at 72%. That means you went 15 miles on 28%, giving you a total range of 54 miles, or 3.1 miles/kwh. That's not great and most people typically get better, but there may be several reasons.

First, I seemed to notice that my battery had more capacity after I ran it down to a lower state of charge and then fully charged it back up a few times. It seems to let the battery management system equalize and condition the individual cells.

Second, the default mode is a moderate amount of regenerative braking. By pressing the brake pedal down a little bit, it initiates a greater level of regenerative braking. However, regen is not that effective at lower speeds, so if you're creeping down a steep bay area hill, you're almost entirely using the mechanical brakes, which means that energy is lost.

Third, what does your eco score look like after an entire day of commuting?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So, let's say it's at 72%. That means you went 15 miles on 28%, giving you a total range of 54 miles, or 3.1 miles/kwh. That's not great and most people typically get better, but there may be several reasons.

First, I seemed to notice that my battery had more capacity after I ran it down to a lower state of charge and then fully charged it back up a few times. It seems to let the battery management system equalize and condition the individual cells.

Second, the default mode is a moderate amount of regenerative braking. By pressing the brake pedal down a little bit, it initiates a greater level of regenerative braking. However, regen is not that effective at lower speeds, so if you're creeping down a steep bay area hill, you're almost entirely using the mechanical brakes, which means that energy is lost.

Third, what does your eco score look like after an entire day of commuting?
Makes sense. Thank you for your analysis.

Most of the time I would say my eco score is between 15 to 30.
 

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One other thing you can do. At the base of your right stalk is a ring that changes the display information. On the screen labeled "START" is the miles per kwh for your current trip. I think it resets if the car sits for more than four or five hours. That will tell you what kind of efficiency the car thinks it is getting.

I usually find that a lower eco score means more fun driving, so it's all good!
 

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At the base of your right stalk is a ring that changes the display information. On the screen labeled "START" is the miles per kwh for your current trip. I think it resets if the car sits for more than four or five hours. That will tell you what kind of efficiency the car thinks it is getting.
To reset the mi/kwh indicator and also the range left estimate, use the right stalk to go to "Reset" Reset this screen with the trip odometer button.
 

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Relying on ChargePoint stations is a big-time expensive way to charge an electric car. Any free charging stations - or 120V electric outlets where you can do level 1 charging with an extension cord and the cars level 1 charging box?
 

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I drive my 14ED pretty hard and consistently get about 3.5miles per kwh. The AC and heater are a battery drain. Are you keeping your toes nice and toasty this winter?
 

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Make sure your tires are inflated to spec.
I overinflate mine (w/ respect to the door pillar pressures) by about 4 psi. It does not affect wear and seems to improve wear on the front tires.

Another thing that is important is the alignment, notably the toe. But, a specialized suspension/alignment shop that does suspension mods will be needed to adjust the rear toe. Only the front is adjustable. My smart seems to have a lot of rolling resistance in neutral - and tire wear - especially the rears was awful. It also only does 3.1-3.2 mi/kwh at best (with 90% or better eco scores). But it is a lease, and not worth spending the money on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Relying on ChargePoint stations is a big-time expensive way to charge an electric car. Any free charging stations - or 120V electric outlets where you can do level 1 charging with an extension cord and the cars level 1 charging box?
So the power company in my area (San Jose, Ca) has several different rate plans. On average, I would pay anywhere from $0.26 to $0.22 per kwh at home. Depending on the time of day. The lowest rate they have is an EV plan that charges $0.12 per kwh, however, that is only after 11pm to 7am. Anytime outside of that would be like $0.28-$0.30 per kwh.

Based on my overall usage at home, the $0.25 that ChargePoint is charging is about the same as if I had charged at home.
 

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I drive my 14ED pretty hard and consistently get about 3.5miles per kwh. The AC and heater are a battery drain. Are you keeping your toes nice and toasty this winter?
I have never been able to get it to that high on any given trip. The highest I have seen is like 3.1 Kwh. No AC or heater or butt warmers. Radio is about the only other thing I turn on...
 

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In the summer I get between 7.6 and 7.1 kms/kwh or about 4.75 miles/kwh. But in the winter months, I'm getting 4.5 kms/kwh or 2.8 miles/kwh.

If you consider the optimum efficiency for the 2017 ED is around 160 kms or 100 miles (not the EPA numbers but Smart Europe numbers) , then my actual efficiency runs me around 50% in the winter months while I regularity achieve 78-85% in the summer.

What effects the car a great deal is highway driving, 90% of all my driving is city and my eco score is usually around 94%.

I track all my trips by season using 'My EV App' which also gives me the cost comparison to driving my second ICE car, a Rav4 Hybrid.

Cheers.
 

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I do pretty well

On my 2013 forttwo USA I get up to 4.2, rarely on my highway commute. I can easily do 3.2 (mpkwh). I charge up at my home charger for 10.8c /kwh
if you run at 65 and hold the pedal steady (I don' have cruise control, curious how that would be different) thats where I can push it up over 4.0

So I am running on average for thousands of miles at 3.3 cents/mile ($0.033/mile)with a spreadsheet to back that up.

My wifes honda accord hybrid gets 27 mpg on regular and has averaged 11 cents/mile. My Mercedes SUV at 19c/mi with a v6
 
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