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Went out to my car this morning to find a dead battery I guess. I am currently on hold with smart USA still but I must admit that its not the best experience. On top of not being able to go to work I'm also unable to lock the car since the battery is dead.

Sounds like I am right back in the spot I was a month ago. Trying to enjoy the smart as a daily driving vehicle but learning that this isn't something I can completely count on. Is anyone else having these feelings? :confused::confused::confused:
 

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Went out to my car this morning to find a dead battery I guess. I am currently on hold with smart USA still but I must admit that its not the best experience. On top of not being able to go to work I'm also unable to lock the car since the battery is dead.

Sounds like I am right back in the spot I was a month ago. Trying to enjoy the smart as a daily driving vehicle but learning that this isn't something I can completely count on. Is anyone else having these feelings? :confused::confused::confused:
If the battery is dead there is a reason. My smart is my daily driver, I drive it about 500 miles a week, and find it to be reliable. I had a flat about two weeks ago but the low press warning system gave me a heads up and I drove on to work and removed the tire and had it repaired. The battery being dead will have a cause, lights left on, car not driven for extended period of time, poor battery connection, charging system problem, and etc. If there is a problem with the eletrical system of your car contact the dealer and have them correct it.

My smart just turned three months old and has 6000+ miles on it and I find it as reliable as any car I have ever owned.
 

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I think if you take the little plugs with the smart logo out of the keyholes in the doors you can use the key to lock it at least.

Mine has a really ugly zit that the dealer put on but the car itself is running well and seems very reliable so far.

It makes a cheap rattaling sound when idleing but I think it is comming from the cheap rattler the dealer put on to hold the temp tags.

pfft!
 

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If the battery is dead there is a reason. My smart is my daily driver, I drive it about 500 miles a week, and find it to be reliable. I had a flat about two weeks ago but the low press warning system gave me a heads up and I drove on to work and removed the tire and had it repaired. The battery being dead will have a cause, lights left on, car not driven for extended period of time, poor battery connection, charging system problem, and etc. If there is a problem with the eletrical system of your car contact the dealer and have them correct it.

My smart just turned three months old and has 6000+ miles on it and I find it as reliable as any car I have ever owned.
Let's hope so since at that rate your warranty will only last you a year.
 

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Let's hope so since at that rate your warranty will only last you a year.
A little longer than a year since I purchased the smart 100,000 mile extended service contract, but even at that it will be about 3-3.5 years. I don't care if some of you think that purchasing the extendended contract is stupid, if I never use it it will be money well spent.
 

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Went out to my car this morning to find a dead battery I guess. I am currently on hold with smart USA still but I must admit that its not the best experience. On top of not being able to go to work I'm also unable to lock the car since the battery is dead.

Sounds like I am right back in the spot I was a month ago. Trying to enjoy the smart as a daily driving vehicle but learning that this isn't something I can completely count on. Is anyone else having these feelings? :confused::confused::confused:
My car starts every morning and has run all day when asked not a feeling but fact. Think 99% of the owners that own them have had a lot of fun and no real problems. People that have had trouble have not been shy about sharing the fact with us. Have you been able to find out what caused the battery to go flat on you?
karl
 

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A little longer than a year since I purchased the smart 100,000 mile extended service contract, but even at that it will be about 3-3.5 years. I don't care if some of you think that purchasing the extendended contract is stupid, if I never use it it will be money well spent.
At least you got to choose, you don't need to defend your choices to anyone insurance is a very personal choice. Not getting a choice and being forced to buy something sucks.
karl
 

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A little longer than a year since I purchased the smart 100,000 mile extended service contract, but even at that it will be about 3-3.5 years. I don't care if some of you think that purchasing the extendended contract is stupid, if I never use it it will be money well spent.
you and me both, brother man. I think it was the right move. I am sure time will prove us right. :cool:
 

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you and me both, brother man. I think it was the right move. I am sure time will prove us right. :cool:
If after the 24k warranty we have a major problem, I hope not, then we were brilliant. If we have no problems at then we were foolish, but I will have peace of mind.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I think if you take the little plugs with the smart logo out of the keyholes in the doors you can use the key to lock it at least.

Mine has a really ugly zit that the dealer put on but the car itself is running well and seems very reliable so far.

It makes a cheap rattaling sound when idleing but I think it is comming from the cheap rattler the dealer put on to hold the temp tags.

pfft!
I just wanted to point out that you can open the doors when the battery is dead but you are unable to lock it when you the battery is dead.
 

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If after the 24k warranty we have a major problem, I hope not, then we were brilliant. If we have no problems at then we were foolish, but I will have peace of mind.
our decision places us squarely OUTSIDE of the "penny wise, pound foolish" crowd!! :smartje:
 

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I've had no dead batteries, but with less than 300 miles, mine's given me no sense of confidence. It's been in and out of the dealer with constant problems. I don't trust mine at all. Frequent engine light issues, now today, a rattle deep in the dash.. I've tried to keep optimistic but it's not easy. Plus the part I've been waiting for (ECU) has been on a slow boat from who-knows-where.. definitely they're not in any hurry to get my issues resolved. Nice dealer and all, but I just get the feeling this car wasn't subjected to the millions of miles of torture testing Mercedes-Benz brags about with the C-Class.
 

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My smart just turned three months old and has 6000+ miles on it and I find it as reliable as any car I have ever owned.
We agree. Like Okie we run the miles. Two months old 5,100 + miles. This Smart is turning out to be a good work car, as well as a lot of fun.

I have found, over the years, most car dealers and shops know ZERO about basic electrical theory and trouble shooting. Get an electronic/electric guy to have a look. He will run the problem down in a heartbeat.

A2Jack.
 

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Electrical ? What is that ?

I have found, over the years, most car dealers and shops know ZERO about basic electrical theory and trouble shooting. Get an electronic/electric guy to have a look. He will run the problem down in a heartbeat.

A2Jack.
No one would be able to agree with you more A2Jack,
=========================================

Ask any ("Tech"?);

1.Why Auto Manufacturers changed from 6 volt to 12 volt ? (For that matter why are small airplanes 28 volt
2.What is the difference between a generator and an alternator and how is that related to a transformer ?
3.Why are relays used ? By its purpose, what is another name for a relay ?
4.What is the purpose of a solenoid ?
5.What determines the physical size of a wire used in an automobile ?
6.How do they make the 'Stoplight' brighter that the taillight ?
7.Which bulb would be brighter, [email protected]@6volt..... [email protected] ?
8.What is the purpose of the condenser in an auto ignition ?
9.How many amps (approximately) does the starter in a Smart use ?
10. What does it mean when we say the Smart has a "Drive by Wire" accelerator ?

I'm not kidding when I say; This is basic stuff on your Smart (Applicable to any brand of automobile) tech should be able to answer without hesitation. If he/she can't, tell the General manager the 'Tech is NOT qualified to diagnose an electrical problem

THERE ARE NO TRICK QUESTIONS IN THE 10 ABOVE.

To keep things straight and above board, PM me for the correct answers.

I will keep PMs confidential.

Learn the above.... and 'Floor' a Tech,,,,, and your friends.
 

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Here's an analogy worth remembering....

I've had no dead batteries, but with less than 300 miles, mine's given me no sense of confidence. It's been in and out of the dealer with constant problems. I don't trust mine at all. Frequent engine light issues, now today, a rattle deep in the dash.. I've tried to keep optimistic but it's not easy. Plus the part I've been waiting for (ECU) has been on a slow boat from who-knows-where.. definitely they're not in any hurry to get my issues resolved. Nice dealer and all, but I just get the feeling this car wasn't subjected to the millions of miles of torture testing Mercedes-Benz brags about with the C-Class.
The more people go to doctors for help in solving all their ills, the more ills they will have....;)

Substitute people and doctors with cars and (most) dealerships.....

avoid (most) of either a doctor or a dealership and you will be better off. I inject most because my dealership is golden...IMHO.
 

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No one would be able to agree with you more A2Jack,
=========================================

Ask any ("Tech"?);

1.Why Auto Manufacturers changed from 6 volt to 12 volt ? (For that matter why are small airplanes 28 volt
2.What is the difference between a generator and an alternator and how is that related to a transformer ?
3.Why are relays used ? By its purpose, what is another name for a relay ?
4.What is the purpose of a solenoid ?
5.What determines the physical size of a wire used in an automobile ?
6.How do they make the 'Stoplight' brighter that the taillight ?
7.Which bulb would be brighter, [email protected]@6volt..... [email protected] ?
8.What is the purpose of the condenser in an auto ignition ?
9.How many amps (approximately) does the starter in a Smart use ?
10. What does it mean when we say the Smart has a "Drive by Wire" accelerator ?

I'm not kidding when I say; This is basic stuff on your Smart (Applicable to any brand of automobile) tech should be able to answer without hesitation. If he/she can't, tell the General manager the 'Tech is NOT qualified to diagnose an electrical problem

THERE ARE NO TRICK QUESTIONS IN THE 10 ABOVE.

To keep things straight and above board, PM me for the correct answers.

I will keep PMs confidential.

Learn the above.... and 'Floor' a Tech,,,,, and your friends.
I would be very suprised if the Smart had an old school points and condensor ignition..............
 
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