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Discussion Starter #1
So it started with my air conditioner going off on a hot day intermidentaly while driving. I live in Vegas so a hot day is 90-110. No warning lights ever came on. It worked fine while moving. It was just traffic. Eventually I discovered low coolant and did an oil change and it did a lot better. During all of this I baught a 10 dollar obd2 WiFi scanner for my phone. I’ve noticed that my car starts at 130 c and can easily end up at 240c after thirty or so minutes of in traffic driving. But I’ve never had a warning light go off. This is with air conditioner on full blast. What’s curious is that the obd2 often shows the ambient temp at nearly 20-30 degrees over what the cars dash says. Now I have heard that running the heat slightly decreases the temp. But when I do that it will set the ambient temp to what the dash says and will drop my temp back to like 180c almost instantly. The car seems to be driving fine. Is it possible that my obd2 I baught is just garbage? My other thought is that there’s air in the radiator. (I accidentally led the cap off and overheated while testing this ) so I was think No about trying to bleed the line on a hill. Any thoughts?
 

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you would have to park on a vertical wall to bleed the air out the radiator. the correct way is to remove a hose going to the head on the engine and let the air out. The engine head is a bit higher than the radiator cap so air gets trapped in the head. The hoses to the radiator go under the floor of the car, to get an air bubble out that way would require the hoses to be higher than the engine head.

I never put much stock in those scanners that go through a cell phone, especially with a $10 price tag.
 

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I do not recommend any of those phone-based scanners. You're relying on a bunch of different variables for accuracy.

Get something like a ScanGauge or an UltraGauge. They're more expensive, however they can be trusted.
 

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Sounds like you radiator fan has gone out. While driving, air is being pushed thru the radiator but when stopped or slow driving very little air is going thru the radiator and over heating starts. With the A/C on check if the radiator fan is running. If not, then you need to replace the radiator fan. Several people have used a fan on the front side of the radiator to blow air into the radiator, as replacing the OEM fan is lots of trouble.

MLogan
2014 Passion
Smyrna, TN
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The radiator fan did go out recently and i did exactly that.... putting a nice big radiator fan on the front. It’s in fact still spins fine and pushing a bunch of air into the radiator so I was hesitant to say anything. Maybe I should try pulling the Air through the radiator?
 

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The OBD to Bluetooth adapters work just fine. Your results may vary depending upon the app you are using it with.

Concentrate on the coolant temperature for now... if you do not get it under control you risk damaging the engine.

Follow the procedure on page 39 (pdf page 41) of this manual:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/838294/Smart-Series-451.html?page=41#manual

The pictures will show you the correct hose.

After the vehicle warms up and the thermostat has opened, I'd suggest gunning the engine a bit to try sweeping any small air bubbles from the system into the coolant reservoir. Keep an eye on the engine temperature (via OBD) and do NOT let it overheat. After the engine has cooled back down, repeat the bleeding procedure... I found once was not enough as additional air had collected in the head. Second time was a charm!

Air bubbles in the head will cause your OBD temperature readings to fluctuate wildly.

~toaster
 

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Well I really hope you're not seeing 240C, because that'd be 464F. lol. Surely things would be beyond melted! Anywho, sounds like a bad fan. Been there, done that. Whole front of the car came off. It was a pain, but kinda fun at the same time. This car is a little toy puzzle.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So I bled the air still having problems. But I discovered somethIng. The air is blowing cold but I heard a constant on off happening from the car like a relay clicking on then off on then off. So my guess was the compressor. So instead of turning on the heat when my car met 220 I just switched the air off completely. The temp started dropped big immediately. Right now I’m at idle in 90 degree weather at 206. Also interesting the radiator fan is blowIng at 206 too. Which I thought was too low for it. Anyone have a clue what’s going on here?
 

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There is just a Bunch of useless Info on the Left... I want to know Location, and the Cars Info listed there. We can surmise alot about what could be going on about members & cars with a Little Info on the left...
Note: Was the old OEM Fan Totally Removed.?

~ "It Will Make You Happy" ~
1) How old is the Coolant.? (lifetime fluid is only 5 years Drain & Flush & fill with Pre-Mix)(MB says Peak is the only SUB for their own)
2) Because this engine destroys itself with a air bubble in the Head. A bottle of "Water-Wetter" is highly recommended to help extract air bubbles, create better fluid to metal adhesion. (after doing that, you will see a lot of removed Skum floating in the reservoir. (you been warned)
3) After that You never drain all the Fluid again (true Life-Time) You just SUCK the Fluid & Skum out of the Reservoir, and Top-Up with "Peak Pre-Mix" to replenish the Corrosion Inhibitors "EACH" an every Year. Also through out the Year "Keep The Reservoir" Topped-Up to the "FULL MARK" on this engine (vary important on this Marginal Engine) Also make sure that "Cap-Is-Tight" (Vary important on the Marginal Engine).
 

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From the initial problem, did you have an A/C check to see if your refrigerant level is topped up. I would not recommend the DIY A/C kits since the gauge kit is typically not great and there is a chance of overfilling the system which can blow out the seals on your A/C compressor.

I would also check and see if you have dirt/crud build up on the A/C radiator which is typically installed in front of the radiator for the engine. One of our Saturns exhibited the exact problem you stated in that when the car was moving the A/C seemed to get cold but when stopped it ran hot.

If your rad fan is not working I would check this out ASAP as an overheated motor can be damaged, especially if the head gasket blows.... ask me how I know this.... JimVW57 posted some pix here about the 451 fan, http://www.smartcarofamerica.com/forums/f4/2014-smart-ac-noise-148978/


You should be able to hear the rad fan kick in and run or with the access panel removed feel a breeze though it should be pretty obvious if the fan is running.

Also if your overheating warning light does come on, it may be too late so don't rely on this as your car still being in the 'safe' zone.

As others have mentioned about the cheap Bluetooth scan adaptors, I have one, the ELM327 and I use it to reset the P2188 codes my smart keeps wanting to throw when I mash the gas pedal. I don't keep mine plugged in because I suspected if of actually sending false readings to my phone. I own an Innova scan tool but have since decided to invest in a better reader such as the MB Star reader or at least the Scanguage or Ultraguage.
 

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If the AC is set on max cool, and the recirc switch is on,the rad fan should be running all the time. lately I have seen my temps running between 198-209 with the ac on in traffic. I usually shut off the AC in traffic as I don't think there is enough air flow thru the radiator to keep things cool. With outside temps in the 90's, and driving at around 70, engine temps run about 198-200 on my car. using a ScangaugeII
 

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The OBD to Bluetooth adapters work just fine. Your results may vary depending upon the app you are using it with.

Concentrate on the coolant temperature for now... if you do not get it under control you risk damaging the engine.

Follow the procedure on page 39 (pdf page 41) of this manual:
https://www.manualslib.com/manual/838294/Smart-Series-451.html?page=41#manual

The pictures will show you the correct hose.

After the vehicle warms up and the thermostat has opened, I'd suggest gunning the engine a bit to try sweeping any small air bubbles from the system into the coolant reservoir. Keep an eye on the engine temperature (via OBD) and do NOT let it overheat. After the engine has cooled back down, repeat the bleeding procedure... I found once was not enough as additional air had collected in the head. Second time was a charm!

Air bubbles in the head will cause your OBD temperature readings to fluctuate wildly.

~toaster
Toaster, Thank You for the Manual Link and the process for properly bleeding the air out, practical experience manuals don't always cover.
UltraGauge markets a wireless smartphone based OBD reader.
I agree a lot has to do with the phone app. and the quality of the OBD reader itself.
I can't speak to the accuracy $10 chinese clones.
If UltraGauge has decided to go with a wireless OBD they must work.
Currently UltraGauge wireless OBD readers accounts for a majority of their sales versus wired. According to the salesman, customers like having no cords and the ease of transferring the unit from one car to another.
 

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UltraGauge markets a wireless smartphone based OBD reader.

If UltraGauge has decided to go with a wireless OBD they must work. Currently UltraGauge wireless OBD readers accounts for a majority of their sales versus wired. According to the salesman, customers like having no cords and the ease of transferring the unit from one car to another.
And currently UG is offering a Factory Direct sale . . .

UltraGauge Blue OBDII Scan tool & Information Center
 

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Guys i have small question in smart pure 2002 where is the circuite that or the sensor that give the order or the fan of the radiator to start?
 
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