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Hi,
I've read through several other threads with similar issues but want to double-check my situation.
So I didn't use the car (2008 model) for many weeks (8-9?). Wouldn't start, so I jumped it and drove around for a while to try to get a charge. During that process I had the 3 horizontal lines on the dash and just kept key in position 1 for a few minutes until they cleared and then it went to P and I could start it (with the jump).

A couple of weeks later, it wouldn't start again. But this time it would not jump. I tried both a traditional jump (granted the cables are only 8 gauge) and a lithium ion jumper pack. I only heard it do like a single crank once and that's it.

So I took out the battery and put it on an AC-powered 2A trickle charger/maintainer for a few days.
I have one of those handheld CCA estimators and battery testers and it reports between 595-630 CCA on the battery (not the original factory battery) that is rated for 650CCA. Battery is 3 years old.

Still won't start, even with jump. The battery voltage is about 12.3 after several start attempts. Was reading 12.8 when I took it off the charger.

When I try to start it, I use the handheld battery tester to also show the voltage waveform. It only drops down to 11.9.
If I try to start with the headlights on, they shut off, but I question whether that is on purpose or not. They actually click fully off and the green dash "headlights on" indicator shuts off. They do not turn back on until a few seconds after I release the key back to position 1. Do the headlights normally shut off for a moment during a start or is this an indication of the battery not being able to provide enough current as it would be in other cars (especially older ones)?
During attempts to start, I can hear a squeaky solenoid-sounding noise from the engine area but I am not sure if it is actually the starter solenoid or not. Seems to be only when turning key from off to 1. I also hear a pretty soft high-pitched whine from engine area. But when the key goes from 1 to 2 to start, I just hear two clicks in rapid succession which I assume are relays.

The dash indicators seem totally normal and it says P. I did try that routine of shifting P-R-N-D-+ and back to "reset" just in case because of the battery disconnect, but it doesn't help.

Is there something else I should check before buying a new battery? Fuses? Relays? Starter solenoid? How about the giant inline fuse in a black shell that's on the positive cable going from battery terminal to (presumably) the starter? It would be pretty inconvenient to jack it up and get access to the starter because it's on a downhill and it's street parking.

I just think the lack of voltage dip when trying to start is very strange.

Thanks for any ideas.
 

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I am wondering if all you need is a brand new battery for the car. I've had to replace a 3 y o battery on my blue 08 once.
 

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Sounds like everything is working, but it's just not getting enough amps to do the job.
In order I would test would be battery, engine ground strap, positive lead to the starter, starter.
 

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Hi,
I've read through several other threads with similar issues but want to double-check my situation.
So I didn't use the car (2008 model) for many weeks (8-9?). Wouldn't start, so I jumped it and drove around for a while to try to get a charge. During that process I had the 3 horizontal lines on the dash and just kept key in position 1 for a few minutes until they cleared and then it went to P and I could start it (with the jump).

A couple of weeks later, it wouldn't start again. But this time it would not jump. I tried both a traditional jump (granted the cables are only 8 gauge) and a lithium ion jumper pack. I only heard it do like a single crank once and that's it.

So I took out the battery and put it on an AC-powered 2A trickle charger/maintainer for a few days.
I have one of those handheld CCA estimators and battery testers and it reports between 595-630 CCA on the battery (not the original factory battery) that is rated for 650CCA. Battery is 3 years old.

Still won't start, even with jump. The battery voltage is about 12.3 after several start attempts. Was reading 12.8 when I took it off the charger.

When I try to start it, I use the handheld battery tester to also show the voltage waveform. It only drops down to 11.9.
If I try to start with the headlights on, they shut off, but I question whether that is on purpose or not. They actually click fully off and the green dash "headlights on" indicator shuts off. They do not turn back on until a few seconds after I release the key back to position 1. Do the headlights normally shut off for a moment during a start or is this an indication of the battery not being able to provide enough current as it would be in other cars (especially older ones)?
During attempts to start, I can hear a squeaky solenoid-sounding noise from the engine area but I am not sure if it is actually the starter solenoid or not. Seems to be only when turning key from off to 1. I also hear a pretty soft high-pitched whine from engine area. But when the key goes from 1 to 2 to start, I just hear two clicks in rapid succession which I assume are relays.

The dash indicators seem totally normal and it says P. I did try that routine of shifting P-R-N-D-+ and back to "reset" just in case because of the battery disconnect, but it doesn't help.

Is there something else I should check before buying a new battery? Fuses? Relays? Starter solenoid? How about the giant inline fuse in a black shell that's on the positive cable going from battery terminal to (presumably) the starter? It would be pretty inconvenient to jack it up and get access to the starter because it's on a downhill and it's street parking.

I just think the lack of voltage dip when trying to start is very strange.

Thanks for any ideas.
Had same problem dead battery. Tried to start with jump no go. Took battery out had it charged no go. Had it towed to Mercedes dealer they checked it said it had the wrong battery in it . They installed new battery haven’t had a problem since.
 

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Had same problem dead battery. Tried to start with jump no go. Took battery out had it charged no go. Had it towed to Mercedes dealer they checked it said it had the wrong battery in it . They installed new battery haven’t had a problem since.
A 12 volt battery is a 12 volt battery other than variations of type, such as AGM, and size. No such thing as a “wrong battery“. If it fits and Isn’t defective it will work. I suspect the replacement battery was defective or the dealer did something else or made a bit of money on that “service”. Not doubting what they told you, just what really was the cause.
 

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A 12 volt battery is a 12 volt battery other than variations of type, such as AGM, and size. No such thing as a “wrong battery“. If it fits and Isn’t defective it will work. I suspect the replacement battery was defective or the dealer did something else or made a bit of money on that “service”. Not doubting what they told you, just what really was the cause.
Say what you want but dealer only charged me $150 and when I got home I checked and there was a brand new maintenance free battery in the car. Also just last week I needed a battery for my Chevy I bought one at Walmart $140 and I installed.
 

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Say what you want but dealer only charged me $150 and when I got home I checked and there was a brand new maintenance free battery in the car. Also just last week I needed a battery for my Chevy I bought one at Walmart $140 and I installed.
I don’t disbelieve you and I’m glad your car is working properly now. My point is that there isn’t a “wrong battery”. If it fit and wasn’t defective it would start your car. Why the previous one didn’t work is a puzzle.
 

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Handheld/Capacitance testers are very accurate, but read the instructions. My Midtronics 200 says it will not properly check an AGM or other deep cycle battery properly...

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