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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2011 with 142k miles on it and the clutch started to do the wonky engage and disengage dance. Swapped in a new clutch actuator, washed out the plug and it is still pushing the P0805 code. I unplugged the battery and let it sit over night, same deal. Resetting the code with the scan tool, same thing. Is there some other sensor on a 451 I'm unaware of? The service manual wants you to plug in one of those MB Star computers, does it re calibrate the actuator?

The clutch isn't slipping when engaged. Starting, stopping, and high rpm gear changes are lurchy.:shrug:
 

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The factory tool has a relearn function for the clutch actuator. Whether that will fix your issue is not known. It could still be mechanical problem, especially if the symptom has not changed with a new actuator. I would still do a relearn first, if only to verify whether anything changes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Well Beverley Hills Smart surprisingly only wants $130 to plug it in. Hopefully this fixes it :D
 

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Well Beverley Hills Smart surprisingly only wants $130 to plug it in. Hopefully this fixes it :D
Yeah, they suck you in with the $130 diagnostic fee, then they tell it needs a $1200 actuator replacement... $400 for the actuator, and 3 hours labor to change it. Truth is, it only takes about 20 minutes to change it, and that includes getting the car on a lift...:(
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yeah, they suck you in with the $130 diagnostic fee, then they tell it needs a $1200 actuator replacement... $400 for the actuator, and 3 hours labor to change it. Truth is, it only takes about 20 minutes to change it, and that includes getting the car on a lift...:(
I already change the actuator, I am curious on what they will say. It really is a very simple process. Only 3 bolts and a plug.

If it ends up costing a bunch, at 142k miles, I have a few Kawasaki ZX10 motors used for dirt track cars laying around that can go in for play. Those 2016 Turbo Manuals are looking sweeter :D
 

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I already change the actuator, I am curious on what they will say. It really is a very simple process. Only 3 bolts and a plug.

If it ends up costing a bunch, at 142k miles, I have a few Kawasaki ZX10 motors used for dirt track cars laying around that can go in for play. Those 2016 Turbo Manuals are looking sweeter :D
OK, sorry, I missed where you had changed it. Yes, it is a simple process. I've had mine out a few times to clean & lube it. Even swapped it with another for testing. Proved that the whole Star "teach in", is a bunch of crap.

I've learned that most smart techs only know how to regurgitate what the computer tells them, so be very leary of what they tell you. I doubt most would actually know how to truly diagnose anything without a computer handy...


Good Luck...:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Did you swap one out and still have it throw P0805? For all I know the old one may still be good. I took the plastic cover, no rust or corrosion (That Cali drought weather). I assumed the sensors were the other 4 wires on the actuator motor, so I pulled the motor off to see if maybe some teeth were broken and it looked fine.

There isn't any slippage when clutch is engaged. Only thing I could think of is the lever attached to the throw out bearing could be obliterated or something.
 

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My car throws a P0805 every two weeks. Usually when it happens, I'm crawling through a drive-through, in bumper to bumper traffic, or at R/R tracks waiting for a train to pass by. The car becomes physically unable to engage a gear. Shifting to Neutral, shutting down the car, then restarting the car fixes it.

Since I don't have a garage and where I currently live is blanketed in snow/water until Spring, the actuator will have to wait until then. That is, unless I can get a break from this frozen winter that yields conditions that are okay enough to work on the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
My car throws a P0805 every two weeks. Usually when it happens, I'm crawling through a drive-through, in bumper to bumper traffic, or at R/R tracks waiting for a train to pass by. The car becomes physically unable to engage a gear. Shifting to Neutral, shutting down the car, then restarting the car fixes it.

Since I don't have a garage and where I currently live is blanketed in snow/water until Spring, the actuator will have to wait until then. That is, unless I can get a break from this frozen winter that yields conditions that are okay enough to work on the car.
I have resorted to leaving the carpet pulled up and have a latch switch on the battery to make it down to the service center.
 

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The problem for me is that I technically do not have a home (and facing discrimination on the employment front), so my finances do not support the hilarious costs of the MB dealership.

So if it turns out that the transmission is completely trashed (my clutch actuator has been wonky since 20k, I now have 99k), the car will have to go, and either I'll end up with a used 451, or get a 453. If I do go for a used 451...I'm totes going for a cabrio.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Out here I can't believe the amount of 2013s with anywhere between 6-20k miles on them going for $9k or less. As much as I like the 453, what is essentially my wife's commuter to abuse, it fiscally makes more sense to pick up one of those low mileage ones. I have been lucky up to 142k that I only had to replace that piss poor design of a cooling fan. At least in a 453 manual tranny I know I can fix everything myself.
 

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Heh, my experience has been interesting. I was so happy to get that 4yr/50k warranty...but out of SO MANY dealership visits, the only problems they actually fixed were the side skirt that fell off in a car wash, and the radio that stopped working. Most of my car's current problems stem from their reluctance to do anything to my car.

That said, the car has never given up on me and has never let me down, so I love it.
 

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Did you swap one out and still have it throw P0805? For all I know the old one may still be good. I took the plastic cover, no rust or corrosion (That Cali drought weather). I assumed the sensors were the other 4 wires on the actuator motor, so I pulled the motor off to see if maybe some teeth were broken and it looked fine.

There isn't any slippage when clutch is engaged. Only thing I could think of is the lever attached to the throw out bearing could be obliterated or something.
Never threw a code.

I actually posted a thread about it. Another member & friend of mine sent me his actuator that had quit working so I could dissect it. It had gotten water in it, and the pivot shaft had rusted. I pulled it apart, cleaned it up, did a multitude of testing on it, slapped it back together, installed in my car, and it worked fine. Never popped a code, and to my knowledge is now functioning perfectly in his daughters car...

Here is the thread: http://www.smartcarofamerica.com/forums/f25/clutch-actuator-disected-44190/

The sensor is a hall effect on the end of the motor. You can't access it to even look at it.
 

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Never threw a code.

I actually posted a thread about it. Another member & friend of mine sent me his actuator that had quit working so I could dissect it. It had gotten water in it, and the pivot shaft had rusted. I pulled it apart, cleaned it up, did a multitude of testing on it, slapped it back together, installed in my car, and it worked fine. Never popped a code, and to my knowledge is now functioning perfectly in his daughters car...

Here is the thread: http://www.smartcarofamerica.com/forums/f25/clutch-actuator-disected-44190/

The sensor is a hall effect on the end of the motor. You can't access it to even look at it.
Granddaughter's :D

How many miles now ???
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well they want $680 to "look" inside :/ Anyone drop the tranny to replace the clutch yet? Could just replace the entire clutch for less than 1/2 then what they want to take a look.
 

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Granddaughter's :D

How many miles now ???
Oops, sorry... Me? I'm just shy of 180K...

Well they want $680 to "look" inside :/ Anyone drop the tranny to replace the clutch yet? Could just replace the entire clutch for less than 1/2 then what they want to take a look.
Haven't actually done it yet, but I have a new(well 5K miles new), clutch, flywheel & pressure plate sitting here waiting to go in mine in the spring... Doesn't look any worse than a FWD car... Remove starter, clutch actuator, axles, and a couple of wiring plugs, unbolt it from the engine & mounts, and drop it out... Done several of those, so the smart doesn't scare me...:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Done in it in a few Honda's and more than I'd like to remember Nissan Zs. probably will order the clutch form Rock Auto and do her myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Got a hold of a factory service manual, dropping the tranny is pretty simple too . Completely demystified the little bugger.
 
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