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Slow Crank, No Start (seized alternator)

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11K views 18 replies 3 participants last post by  jwight  
Check the large diameter wire leading to the starter. It’s on the bottom of the engine and subject to a lot of road punishment. If it corrodes enough (like mine did), it will not be able to pass sufficient current to crank the starter motor. The results can be a sluggish crank, clicks but no cranking, and eventually the connector will break altogether.
 
Great job on cleaning the starter wires. It sounds like you have all the bases covered with respect to clean connectors and solid contacts.

I think it’s time to have your battery load tested. Many auto supply chains like AutoZone or Advance Auto will load test them free of charge.
 
Oliver, no disrespect intended, but I think it’s worth “getting a second opinion” on the battery. If the wires good and contacts are clean, the I would revisit the battery again.

Len, yes, a battery can show the correct voltage, but drop significantly once a heavy load is placed on he battery. The starter is a huge current draw on the battery, often hundreds of amps. Depending on the equipment used to test, it’s possible not enough load was placed on the battery, in which case it would appear ok. I’ve been bitten by this a few times, chasing electrical problems where none existed.