It *seems* like no heat comes out at the lowest temperature setting but with the fan on. But as soon as I move a notch up on the temperature the heat engages. Is this not how it works? I like air flow, even if it's chilly. And I don't always need heat just because it's a little cold out. That's a battery waste. I live in Central Texas, and really don't need a heater.
How does the heater work?
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That's exactly what happened to my 2014 ED last winter. I brought it in for repair. Luckily, my closest smart center is 15 miles away. If I recall correctly, a heater module needed replaced.
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You wouldn't happen to still have the repair ticket from that job would you? I'd love to get the part number of the part replaced and find out if it could be a reasonable DIY job. My car is under warranty, so the chances are very good that I'll wait until my first annual battery service/check to have it done, but if it's a $20 part and an easy plug and play, then I might consider DIY. However, if it's a $250 part or a PIA repair, then I can deal with it for a couple of months.
Also did the dealer have the part in stock or was he able to get it quickly?
Len
2014 EV 3200 miles
Sorry, I can't find it right now.
I looked in my notes and the repair did require a part shipped from Germany, which took from Friday to Tuesday. All in all I was without my smart for a little over a week (Wednesday to Thursday of following week). It could have been a couple of days shorter, but they forgot to charge it.
Len,
The car would not still be under warranty?
I bet that heater unit is very pricey though. I would not be surprised at all if it was four digits.
Regarding the voltages, it is probably safe as a DIY job, but probably a whole lot of disassembly required. Relays cut the high voltage off at a point inside the pack when the car is turned off. Also, DC from a battery pack in not like AC. In the case of high voltage AC, the whole Earth and anything connected to it is at ground potential. In the case of high voltage DC from a battery pack, only the packs negative terminal and anything connected to it is at ground potential. You could grab the positive voltage of the pack all day and nothing would happen. You would need to grab both positive and negative to do any damage to yourself. And unlike 12 volt systems in IC cars, high voltage traction power never connects the vehicle frame to traction pack negative - for fairly obvious reasons.
The car would not still be under warranty?
I bet that heater unit is very pricey though. I would not be surprised at all if it was four digits.
Regarding the voltages, it is probably safe as a DIY job, but probably a whole lot of disassembly required. Relays cut the high voltage off at a point inside the pack when the car is turned off. Also, DC from a battery pack in not like AC. In the case of high voltage AC, the whole Earth and anything connected to it is at ground potential. In the case of high voltage DC from a battery pack, only the packs negative terminal and anything connected to it is at ground potential. You could grab the positive voltage of the pack all day and nothing would happen. You would need to grab both positive and negative to do any damage to yourself. And unlike 12 volt systems in IC cars, high voltage traction power never connects the vehicle frame to traction pack negative - for fairly obvious reasons.
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Yinzer - see my post #24 above. Yes, the car is still under warranty. Closest dealer is 120 miles away and my plan is not to go there until I'm due for the annual battery check in July. Probably going to have to tow it part or all the way, so I don't want to have to go through that twice. Now if I had a dealer closer or if I still lived in Pittsburgh, I might not feel the same way, but I can easily make it through a NC winter with just the seat heaters.
I think I may have found what could be the bad part. It is called the heat booster, part # A 451 830 26 00. There is one on e-bay for $1700. Not sure what the dealer MSRP is. At that price, I'm certainly not going to buy one, since it will be covered under warranty.
See MERCEDES A 451 830 26 00, HEAT BOOSTER: Part Info for a parts blow up of the part in question.
Len
2014 EV
3200 miles
I think I may have found what could be the bad part. It is called the heat booster, part # A 451 830 26 00. There is one on e-bay for $1700. Not sure what the dealer MSRP is. At that price, I'm certainly not going to buy one, since it will be covered under warranty.
See MERCEDES A 451 830 26 00, HEAT BOOSTER: Part Info for a parts blow up of the part in question.
Len
2014 EV
3200 miles
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1,652 Posts
It's actually a different part number, but it sure looks like the same part in the EPC. However, at $132 for a used part, I think I'll wait to get the new $1700 part under warranty from Mercedes/Smart.
Len
2014 EV
We purchased a new 2018 Smart electric ~2 months ago. Our heater is problematic, too. When we first turn it on, no heat, although the available miles drops by ~10. The second time we turn it on that day, we often have heat. Not sure if this pattern will hold, but that's what we've noticed so far.
Welcome to SCoA, time to head to the smart Center for warranty repair!
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Did you ever find out exactly what this problem was? I've got a 2015 EV, and its doing exactly what you've described. I'm nearly five hours from the nearest service center.It's actually a different part number, but it sure looks like the same part in the EPC. However, at $132 for a used part, I think I'll wait to get the new $1700 part under warranty from Mercedes/Smart.
Len
2014 EV
This company EVwest has disassembled many electric smarts for parts
See pictures in this link of the parts they sell and what they look like
Used Components, EV West - Electric Vehicle Parts, Components, EVSE Charging Stations, Electric Car Conversion Kits
See pictures in this link of the parts they sell and what they look like
Used Components, EV West - Electric Vehicle Parts, Components, EVSE Charging Stations, Electric Car Conversion Kits
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